The construction of the house is made of metal tiles. Vlastuvannya roofing from metal tiles

The construction of the house is made of metal tiles. Vlastuvannya roofing from metal tiles

The popularity of metal tiles when coating roofing is explained by its availability and simple installation technology. Metal roofing has excellent operational properties and is suitable for any configuration. The completion of all the work at the time of laying such a covering guarantees the most important term of its service. Proper moisture treatment of metal tile roofing will ensure reliable protection of the under-roof space and living areas from atmospheric fallout. Almost all manufacturers of metal tiles and roofing accessories provide buyers of their products with reports and technical instructions for the correct treatment of metal tile roofing. The basic principles of installation work are identical, however, there are also recommendations for specific products. When considering the waterproofing of metal tile roofing, it is necessary to determine what the principle of insulation will be, whether it is cold or warm.


Insulation of metal tiles in all aspects depends on the principle of insulation. There are two main types of coating – cold and warm. In the first case, it is necessary to insulate either the internal part of the building or the non-living area on top, given that the outer part of the metal tile roof does not have thermal insulation. In this case, the design of the slopes transmits natural ventilation, which prevents the formation of condensate due to temperature differences. Warm air, instead of cold water, transfers the formation of a rich-spherical heat-insulating ball. The design of a warm roof makes it possible to plaster the attic living area, the fragments of the heat-insulating components will be an order of magnitude greater for a cold roof. The very same piece of warm roofing with metal tiles needs to be formed from a ball of vapor barrier, heat-insulating material that is laid between the roofing joists, and a waterproofing membrane, What passes condensate from the gate side of the metal tile onto the thermal insulation. Vapor insulation melt can serve as a barrier against evaporation from the inside of the room.

Lathing

One of the most important stages in the lining of metal tile roofing is the molding of the grating. The scheme of the folding structure is essentially a molded frame of the future cover, and when properly handled and installed, it contains the operational components of all things.
Placing the coating under metal tiles can be divided into the following stages:
  • making blood;
  • hydroisolating lining flooring;
  • counter lathing;
  • reshetuvannya
  • covered with metal tiles.
The sheets of waterproofing are arranged in a horizontal order. The first cut is fixed parallel to the cornice strip with a slight overlap on it (5–10 cm). The fastening works with the help of a standard stapler. The front cut-outs are sequentially rotated in the world until they overlap with a 10 cm overlap on the front row. The counter-lattice serves as the basis for the horizontal beams of the sheathing. They need to be laid vertically on the top of the crowns, essentially repeating their spreading. Place the height between the roofs and the bars of the counter-lattice at a height of 60 to 90 cm. For this frame element, use vicorized bars 5 cm wide and 3 cm or 5 cm high. The instructions indicate that, in addition, at the lower base of the frame, two boards are fixed, the height of which corresponds to the height of the counter-lattice, and the folding width is about 10 cm. These boards will play the role of the cornice. basis.


The sheathing itself is mounted directly on top of the counter-batten. For this purpose, make wooden blocks 5×5 cm or 3.2×10 cm. The stench is responsible for being treated with wood antiseptics, which protect against rot, fungus or mold. Obov'yazkova's washing facility means strengthening the grid in the area of ​​​​roztashuvannaya kovzan. It will be ensured that the two remaining bars are connected.
Stand between the adjacent boards of the grating, or so called krok, which is determined according to the type of metal tile chosen. Instructions: Before applying another roofing profile, fill in the information about this indicator, as well as the size of the roof in the eaves part of the roofing scheme. Thus, for Cascade metal tiles, it is necessary to ensure that the sheathing width between the first and the other bars is 250 mm, between the other and the third - 350 mm, and for the top ones - 300 mm. When cladding metal tiles of the Monterrey type, the edge between the first and other gratings must be 300 mm, and between the top ones 350 mm. Metal tiles of the Elite type convey a sheathing edge of 350 mm between the first and other rows and 400 mm between the steps.
Also carefully apply attention to fastening the elements of the counter-lattice to the edges. In this case, fakhivtsi recommend laying a line of backed polyurethane or polyethylene between the vertical bars of the counter-lattice and the roofs. Such a gasket is necessary to eliminate possible minor deformation of the roofs due to the drying of the wood and further damage to the counter-lattice structure and the integrity of the waterproofing ball. All elements of the lathing are fixed using additional colors. Farmers, looking at practice, especially recommend using galvanized pipes. Fastening the sheets of metal tiles starts from the lower right corner of the structure. The first sheet is carefully aligned in all directions and fixed until the grid is secured with only one screw at the top part. Next, another sheet is laid parallel to the fixed one. The two canvases are held together by screws. Afterwards, carefully align the sheets along the eaves and fix them until the grid is installed using screws with gum pads. Further laying is carried out with an overlap of parts of the new sheet already fixed. In the same way, many masters place the leaves of the left side to the right, placing the advancing leaf at the lock of the front one. This way you can achieve more precise pressing of sheets at the locks.

Yendovi

One of the important elements when laminated metal tile roofing is the groove. The vona is an internal stick on the surface of the coating that sticks together. It is necessary to form the base for the groove from a solid surface. For this purpose, wide planks are used or a number of standard sheathing bars are assembled. The instructions cover the installation of both the lower and upper grooves. The lower elements are fixed directly to the surface of the sheathing using screws. The lower groove of the vikonan is made of galvanized steel sheet. The technology of the coating from the viscosities of the lower groove transfers the water that penetrates under the coating and in places the slopes. The design of this type of groove is an even-sided element with an internal cut of 135 degrees, the edges of which are bent.
The upper groove for covering metal tiles has more of a decorative value in order to catch the sheets of sheets from the lower groove. As the technology for veneering metal tile roofing transfers, the upper groove is installed at the remaining stages of the process.

End strips


Another important element of metal roofing is the end strip. This part is designed to protect the edge of the sheet of metal tiles from the ingress of atmospheric precipitation under its surface, as well as the accumulation of saws, sheets or other debris between the board and the surface of the roof. In addition, the end strip protects the structure from wind damage and provides an aesthetically pleasing finish. The end strips need to be fixed right up to the end plate, and its edge is liable to roll heavily against the sheet of metal tiles. It is necessary to fix the end strips with an edge of 50-60 cm, and the overlap between such elements should be no less than 5 cm.

Based on the name of the element, it is difficult to guess about the purpose of the metal roofing structure. Installation of the cornice strip completes the finishing of the roof frame. It can be attached after fixing the front (cornice) board to the frame.
The instructions for carrying out the treatment of metal tile roofing convey the need to place the lower edge of the waterproofing on the eaves strip to ensure that water does not penetrate into the structure that carries it.

Skating bars

The covering of metal tiles on the upper slopes of the slopes emphasizes the presence of dry parts, which ensure natural ventilation of the space under the roof and fit between the sheet material, ensuring reliable protection from the hit by water. The ridge strips act as such an element. The shepherds can be either flat or rounded. The technology for their installation involves fastening using additional roofing screws with gum gullies, and it is recommended to install a ridge gullet under the plank itself. This part is susceptible to atmospheric fallout, causing smears and lumps under the surface of the coating.

Snow protection and other safety elements

The roof structure with metal tiles provides the presence of additional accessories for safe operation and maintenance. So, in order to prevent uncontrolled snow accumulation from covering and possible injury to people, snow catchers are installed (detectors mark such elements as snow catchers). The installation diagram can transfer the distribution of these elements in one line through the riser, as well as in the checker order. These elements need to be fastened after another or third layer of metal tiles in the form of a cornice strip. The two largest structures are designed to protect against snow – they look like slats of different formats or tubes connected to each other.


Apparently, over-drying of the surface of the metal tile can cause its deformation. Accessories such as transition areas and roofing guards ensure the preservation of roofing sheets and the safety of re-drying them. The installation scheme of such covering elements is responsible for conveying the presence of an adjacent structural grid. It is also possible to install special descents, in addition to which you can climb up the slope with the necessary twist of the hook. The instructions for installing these elements convey bonded sealing from the place of fastening to the surface of the metal tile roofing. In this case, the ramps can be folded into two structures – wall and roof. These accessories also include brackets, girders, support elements, handrails and wall flanges.

Mixing planks

An important stage in the installation of metal tile roofing is the adhesion of the sheet material to the structural elements so that it will unravel in the long run. You can add attic windows, dimaris, and ventilation outlets to them. And since the installation with the attic windows requires a lot of fine parts, which come with the window, then the chimneys need to be equipped with special strips. The correct technology for constructing such units prevents the penetration of atmospheric fallout between the smoke and excess sheets of metal tiles. Whenever grooves are installed, the contact strips can be of two types – external and internal. Thus, the inner apron surrounds the perimeter of the smoke flue and is fixed by moving the upper curved edge behind the groove in the chimney stack. As a result, the internal contact results in water being released under the sheets of metal tiles. After laying the sheet roofing material, it is necessary to install external adhesive strips. According to the principle, the inner edges of these planks are also placed behind the prepared groove in the dimara.
At the top of the ventilation outlets, which pass through the roof, special accessories are installed to prevent ingress of water and leaves near the channel.
To install the described parts, you need to have an opening in the cover and secure them with self-tapping screws, not forgetting about the sealing gasket included in the kit. Following this procedure, sewer outlets and places for attaching television antennas are installed.

Metal tiles have long become one of the most popular roofing materials. This is a popular myth that investments can be made without trained professionals. In reality, the situation is different - with diligent effort, a careful person will get into trouble with this work.

Start with what?

Installation of metal tiles begins with careful preparation to work. We will first determine the exact need for materials and determine the size of the coating. They need to be measured more precisely. Cutting the material into the required fragments should be done with a helical grinder, or without an abrasive stake - it will easily polish the tiles. The excess coating cake must be removed without excess, since the crumbs are not divided into two layers at a time; This is where the preparation before installation as a whole ends, unless you take care of the tools and materials.

Tools and everything you need

To lay metal tile boards with your own hands, you need to cut them to exact dimensions using a metal knife. Knowing the sizes and aligning them will require using a tape measure. In order to rise to the occasion, it is very important to vikoristovuvat mіtsni, get off or scraps. Fastening is carried out using an electric drill and a screwdriver. The hand tools you need are a hammer, a black stationery marker, and a wooden lath. When working, be sure to seal the gloves and eyepieces from soft plastic.

It is also necessary to stock up on the following components:

  • boards directly;
  • roofing strips;
  • waterproofing material;
  • the tiles themselves;
  • aero videos;
  • end and ridge strips;
  • decorative overlays;
  • self-dose with washers;
  • board 25x100 mm at the required size.

Views of the coating and elements

The structure of the necessary elements for a two-haired dahu has its own characteristics. It is permissible to set its dimensions to 8x5 m (along the slopes). The size of the required number of sheets is indicated by the division of half a single slope into the width of the sheet. What matters here is the working width with overlaps, and not the one that comes out with a tape measure. It is recommended to round off the larger side first and fold it so that one of the sheets can be divided equally and stacked on two sides at once.

The simpler the type of roofing (especially the configuration of the layers), the less tiles there are at the entrance. By increasing the number of leaves, you can reduce the amount of overlap. This will involve complicated work and important transportation, for which you will have to pay a lot. Based on the evidence of most people, if the dovzhin exceeds 6 p.m., it is necessary to divide the sheet into parts. The overlap is at least 0.15 m, if the slope is steeper than 25 degrees, and not less than 0.2 m in the warehouse, if the cover is larger than the canopy.

Laying tiles on the roof, which insulates, transfers installation:

  • waterproofing melt;
  • one or more ventilation gaps;
  • vapor barrier barrier.

To fasten the floats, use special brackets; the ball itself, which is protected from the eyes of the vlog, can be penetrable or impenetrable for a bet. The passage of water vapor is difficult, since there is a cold mountain below, and the axis for the living attic, which is scorched, is no longer so significant. And the ventilation axis under the ball of the cover can be protected without any problems. If they are not installed, condensation will inevitably appear at the bottom, and the conservation of the design of the booth cannot be guaranteed. Bazhano vikoristuvati, as if I were throwing a ball in the air, sp

Such membranes are one-sided, and that side, which is smooth on the board, does not have to be applied to the insulation. It is important to ensure that the robots have a close connection with each other due to the ventilation and antenna output. The upper part of the antenna outputs is cut, taking up approximately 80% of the size of the stands. The passage elements have a ventilation pipe outlet, which must be secured with self-tapping screws. To connect the outer part of the hood with the wind pipe at the booth, you will need a corrugated pipe; To fix the pipe in a given position and seal the connection, an adhesive strip is inserted.

All you need to do is to move the insulation unit, otherwise you need to deal with its similar appearance.

One of the most important options is mineral wool and waste:

  • do not burn;
  • it is good to extinguish the cracks and blows of the droplets on the roof;
  • mechanically;
  • stably preserves valuable fruits for ten years;
  • It can be mounted with a wire handle without any problems.

On the side of the warm areas, cotton wool insulation sheets are protected on the ground by a vapor insulation ball, so that their penetration for water vapor is high.

Having taken out the insulation, you need to figure out the details of the groove installation. All the beading is laid underneath with a ball of insulating material, and screws are needed to remove the cut leaves. No less significant is the passage through the metal tiles of steel pipes and flues. If a smoke pipe runs through a pipe that insulates, it is necessary to lay a strict number of insulation balls, as well as roof insulation, and create a sheathing for the ceiling.

Qualified craftsmen solve this problem by creating a special box that will prevent the pipe from going uphill. The box itself is tightly covered against direct contact with the smoke. To insulate them, one type of vicorite mineral wool based on basalt or glass fiber. Those that have a geometric shape will be indicated by the type of cured materials. Most pipes are straight, round or square. The metal and cement are used mainly for the structure in the form of a stake.

It is difficult to remove the pipe through the groove, so that it is impossible to reliably ensure the tightness of their connection.

No matter how many dimaris they are, they are sure to shake the stale parasols.

When molding the outer apron, use hydroisolating materials that are resistant to high temperatures. The steel doors around the steel doors need to be covered with a heat-insulating barrier or box, which may not only apply to wooden doors. Instead of fluff, to protect the base material from overheating, use vermiculite or expanded clay. This traditional way of using basalt wool is practical and safe.

When any dimars are removed through the walls to insulate, additional transverse beams are installed. Once the pipe has already been covered, the joints are sealed with sealant or covered with adhesive stitching. To collect and drain condensate, you need a drainage trough. It is not necessary to bathe it, so you can make it with your own hands. The round dimars are secured with steel brackets, which creates gaps under the thermal expansion of the structure.

Regardless of whether you own a pipe or not, it is important to properly open the pipes. What is the importance of metal tiles, and the practicality of the roofing, and the power. The structure changes, and the durability of the building becomes more resistant to rain and wind, and the service life of the structure changes. You can figure out the necessary details behind the dimensions by using a formula like X = H/(1/2L). The height here is the interval between the intersections and the kovan, so that the blood grows, and before the end of the day the width of the booth is taken into account.

In order to correct the damage to the surface of the image, to avoid any delays, simply multiply the result by 100. Elementary trigonometry (arc tangent) can be used to translate the calculated degree number. With this scheme, you can specify the necessary parameters for drinks with one layer, otherwise you need to cover the entire flow. If the slopes are not equal to each other, stand up and watch the projection of the shawl on the intersection, and the cuticles indicate the skin surface around the area.

If the device is very foldable, it has a lot of differences and relief details, introduce a correction based on horizontal projections.

The smallest (11 degrees) degree can only be achieved in an ideal situation, if the snow and plank flow is turned off. The pressure on the wind, which is transmitted to the lower parts of the booth, will be small, otherwise the snow and ice will not go down on their own. Judging by the recommendations of most manufacturers of metal tiles, normal roofing in winter drains is guaranteed only at a temperature of at least 14 degrees.

It is not recommended to depend on the calculations or the parameters specified in superimposed materials, which will lead to an increase in costs for the material, increased windage, which is created, and difficulties with water supply.

However, being as flat as possible has its own disadvantages.

If the small cover does not allow water to seep through the sheets between the sheets and the attachment points, you will need to make additional connections.

In winter there will be more problems due to snow removal- If you don’t have enough fear, or if you don’t have enough fear, you may fail. With small covers, the lattice is especially important; attaching to a new part will be easier. And one more shortcoming - I won’t be able to build a mountain or a large attic.

When you look at the situation, other problems emerge. So, at 45 degrees, the snow mass is immediately down. If you have an important metal tile, you can repeat the same maneuver and have to strengthen the fastening, bringing the skin element to the grate as firmly as possible. The extremes converge - both with insufficient and with extreme steepness, you need to put more sheets. Therefore, temperatures between 11 and 70 degrees are theoretically possible, but not practical.

For single-haired roofs, the most practical values ​​are a corridor of 20 to 30 degrees, and for double-haired roofs the figure can reach 45 degrees.

Once you have chosen the outer contour and shape, it’s time to figure out the blood nodes. As a mauerlat, you need to take a beam from a coniferous tree in the shape of a square, the side of which is 10 or 15 cm. The beam of the bed is exactly the same, this part is placed under the straight cut to the load-bearing walls. A knitted roof structure is assembled from the bloody legs, which takes the brunt of the weather elements, so the builder needs to be given special respect. In addition, the racks are prepared, straightened along the vertical structure, so that the pressure of the wrought iron spreads evenly along the walls to be carried.

The length of the ribs and racks is determined not according to standard standards, but according to other special designs.

In addition to them, they have puffs - these are horizontal parts of the blood tritunics, which allow the legs to move sufficiently under different conditions. If the tightening causes the bodies to become crusty when the hanging crowns are opened, and if they weaken the solid support, there is no need for this element at all. Re-rozed the ridges of the ridge joints to create struts. If there is a need for grating, then it is necessary to use wooden planks, timber, which will be placed at 90 degrees in relation to the bottom of the roof, and will increase the rigidity of the roofing.

There are a number of elements you will need to earn:

  • Konik (correct stick between the slopes);
  • hanging - a detail that extends beyond the contour of load-bearing walls by 40 cm and allows hair to penetrate their surface;
  • boxes - replace the connection, since the ends of the blood do not allow it to be made.

If there is a problem with choosing the number of skates, you have to pay attention to some aesthetic considerations.

So, the one-skinned covers will only settle down there, where there will be no mountains - on small budinki, above the ganks and pribudovs, above the gospodar's sporuds.

The tents appear as double as the gables, so that the pediments are carefully cut under the fringe to the full height. The ground cover is similar to a tent roof, it is equipped with the same schema in the form of a triquet, but the pediments are trimmed more often. Since the main part was round, the cover was designed to look like a bath, but all these options, as well as cones, double pincers, and so on, sharpened more than double and single-sided ones.

Rozrahunki

When you look at the houses with metal tiles, it appears that they are made in rows and ridges (that is, lines straightened perpendicular to the plane of the slope). The gap from one row to the other among the coverings, taking away the name of the needles. If the roof of a tile sheet is 350 mm and has six ridges, it is called a module. Typical market propositions include 1 to 10 modules. You can change the individual dimensions, otherwise the quality will be much greater.

It is important to remember that, for technical reasons, the sheet cannot be shortened beyond 45 cm and extended beyond 700 cm, and all the twists and turns are bound to form a monolithic ensemble along the slope.

Having taken into account the required number of modules, it is easy to calculate how much material will be spent on covering one roof. In addition to the main material, steel strips (skin 200 cm long) and steel sheets 200x125 cm, prepared in the same way as tiles, are required. The minimum temperature is 11 degrees, and the maximum is 70 degrees. Most often, the planks that are supplied are covered with a 30-degree angle. As this value increases, they are subject to individual benefits that are indicated in the scheme.

Installation methods

Selecting the appropriate type of coating and carefully defining its parameters is only half the solution. It is important to ask how to lay the metal tiles more beautifully. This is a reliable material, but even if some damage is allowed during installation, after a few months the entire work will have to be remade again. There are two installation options per hour: one row at a time and several rows at a time. Regardless of the assembled path, 2,3 or 4 sheets are taken from the block, attaching one to one with short screws.

Then they arrive before the bars, trying to consume more of the yak. It will then be possible to rotate the block around the central screws, aligning the sheets for their optimal alignment. If installation in one row is chosen, the first sheet stands straight for all the layers. This should be aligned along the cornices and ends of the slopes, and for greater ease of use, fasten it to the self-tapping screw of the shed. The other sheet needs to be placed in an overlap over the first one.

Then they tried to connect with each other for help with the self-tapping screw: The wine is inserted over the spine under transverse folds. This method allows you to insert blocks from a pair or two pairs of arches. Please note: the sheet that completes the skin is not attached to the base until the next package of metal tiles is leveled. Installation in a number of rows is completely different - turn right-handed to the left, and then straighten the first sheet, focusing on the cornices and ends. Another fragment of metal tile must overlap the first one, and it must be fastened to a counter screw at the ridge in the middle of the sheet.

The stick between the parts of the coating is squeezed with screws, which are inserted at the top of the needle. The third sheet of the row is placed left-handed in front of the first. To make it easier and easier to cover, start from the other side, where the daily bevels and cuts, other parts of the cover, as if they could cut the sheet. They lay the material down to the slanting edges or to the slope of the groove that separates it. The fourth sheet is laid on top of the third and they are tied with short screws, but not screwed down to the grid (and you will also need to adjust the geometry of the laid block).

Detailed guide to work

Having briefly become familiar with the installation of roofing, metal tiles and installation, the time has come to understand how the entire work will be carried out step by step. The design of the roofing pie varies depending on insulation or cold air.

Chornova obrobka

The cream of the very facing ball, over the warm attic, gradually grows (burn down to the bottom):

  • reshetuvannya;
  • counter-lattice;
  • water-flowing membrane;
  • ball of voluminous insulating agent;
  • steam bar'er;
  • lining.

For cold hot appliances it’s simpler - there is no need for insulated and enclosed steam.

The lathing is made from 5x5 cm timber; an alternative to this is 3.2x10 cm boards. In both design options, a counter-lattice is added to the beam, which eliminates the blood. The counter-lattice not only ensures the mechanical coherence of the parts of the cake, but also creates ventilation space in the middle of it. And the risk of shutting down due to accumulated condensate changes.

It is impractical to install a monolithic wooden flooring under a metal tile, so the grating parts are installed at intervals of 35-40 cm. The exact value is determined by the grain of the wicker. There, after removing the grooves and cornices, a boardwalk 14-15 cm wide is installed. First, any piece of wood needs to be soaked with antiseptics and flame retardants. Next comes a waterproofing membrane or lining, which allows steam to pass through, does not collapse under the influence of ultraviolet radiation and lasts a long time.

Waterproofing can only be installed during dry weather. If you're walking, it's best to place it on the right until the right moment.

The rolls spread over the skin part of the cover, lay them overlapping, collapsing across the bed. The installation of the cornice begins and ends with the wickerwork. The bottom waterproofing sheets are brought to the front boards of the eaves. More precisely, the pouring of the spit is determined by the cut, but the minimum value is at least 70 mm. To make the sticks hermetically sealed, use adhesive tape and dispersion materials.

The most widespread solution is to use flammable insulating materials, relying on special fire-resistant leaks.

It is necessary to harden only those materials that cannot be handled by power without additional processing. The thickness of the insulation is selected by carrying out a special heat-technical development behind the minds of the singing areas, or in the warmest regions of the Russian Federation it becomes 15 cm. robbers, they are the most reliable and safest.

The laying of the slabs is carried out in the middle of the roofs at the spreader, their fixation is carried out without additional fastenings, since such structures are spring-loaded. The choice of vapor barrier is also consistent, and the main consideration is given to the strength and level of penetration for water vapor. The internal cladding is removed from boards or gypsum boards, and work begins after completing the installation of other balls.

Keep the area under cover, snow that accumulates, and people drying out to a minimum of 200 kg per 1 sq. m. m. The furnishings need to be restored when designing and organizing the floors.

Both cold and warm rooms with metal tiles are equipped with soundproofing material - this should be placed on the roof either with a ball, or in places where the face covering is strengthened.

As long as the covering is kept at a temperature of 14 to 20 degrees, the slats can be placed very rarely. And if the animal is placed on thin steel corrugated sheeting, a non-destructive sheathing of shaped boards is prepared. Its minimum thickness is 3.2 cm, and the installation period changes to 1 cm. It is necessary to nail the slats for the counter-lattling to the bare feet using galvanized bolts. They are driven in through the skin 30 cm. When using waterproofing, it is necessary to seal the membranes in order to effectively prevent condensation from forming, making sure that they are also resistant to ultraviolet exposure.

To attach membranes that are protected from water, use staplers to the bottom of the blood. Balls of sheathing and counter-lattens are placed above the waterproofing. From fibrous heat-insulating materials to the ball of waterproofing, close the gap so that it is filled in the wind. To form it, drive the flowers onto the edge of the edges 1 cm from the waterproofing layer and stretch the mesh as quickly as possible with the cord. You can use a concrete screed to help the walls shine through the coating and additional surface (wind, snow, Križan). If the top is large, it should be laid on all load-bearing walls, without being separated by external surfaces.

The additional strength of the structure can be reached beyond the frame of the concrete columns that extend from the foundation, as well as through the frame of the supports for the beams, which wipe away blood.

The surfaces of the slopes should be drawn out perfectly evenly, and if there are any defects in them, they should be trimmed with a plane. Severely damaged elements should be changed. When working with blood, it is necessary to check its geometry after skin manipulation (especially if the diagonal of the slope is displayed). Having noticed peroxide, it is taken away for additional additional elements.

It happens that the slope (between the ridge beam and the cornice) is more than 6 m. In such cases, the leaves are divided into fragments and they are pressed together overlapping. It’s important to clean up the surfaces and surfaces thoroughly, and after dismantling is complete, the surfaces and gratings themselves are carefully checked so that everything is intact.

When preparing for any roofing work and during the process of laying out metal tiles, it is not possible to cover the façade, close the pediment, or install other work.

Such savings are irrational and result in additional costs.

The gap between the beams of the sheathing should be consistent with the inserts of the frames, but not less than 0.6 and no more than 0.9 m. Before work, it is important to evaluate the gap between the boards and beams, so that the blocks are in dimensions and configuration may result in damage cover the cover. . When filling the cornice, place as many boards as possible so that it does not stick out. It is not possible to cut parts thinner than 150 mm in order to guarantee the quality of the blood and compensate for uneven surfaces. membrane sheeting, which is placed on top of the sheathing, must not be used with the help of flowers or self-tapping screws, and sealed with tape.

Having finished with the cornice strips, we begin to work on the drainage. It’s best to buy a special system from a metal tile supplier to avoid problems. The first step when installed will be to secure the brackets, which will trim the grooves. Immediately we begin installing ventilation vents on the eaves. Once everything has been completed, the preparatory stage can be completed.

Laying the final material

The technology of fastening metal tiles is much simpler, even without preparation robots. And she has her own important, subtle nuances. Apply to the lower cutaneous layers of the skin. Since during the laying process there is a need to shape the leaves, they are simply cut to the required size.

The stick between the sheets will lie along the line through which the water drains. If things work differently, the rain streams will flow into the middle.

Place the first row of stitches carefully behind the projections - they can be placed 4 cm further behind the cornice. There is no need to measure this accurately; losing a few millimeters will not change anything. The next sheets of paper are placed more easily and smoothly, but you will have to concentrate again when you reach the fragments on the right that will be placed on the bunk. It is necessary to remember that the installation of metal tiles and the preparation of work are carried out at height, and that it is particularly difficult to organize the work.

It is necessary to install special belts and safety ropes. Before going up on the dachas, they dress up with a textured gum sole.

  • in the day and in the dark hour of the day (in the case of good electrical illumination);
  • Every hour I finish the board and the surface is not dry;
  • in the fog;
  • when the wind is stronger than 15 m/s (wind as soon as possible).

Raising the load requires the same amount of material and tools as will be needed for the work in the next 1-2 years.

It’s better to spend more than an hour on the climbs and descents, but you won’t run into problems through the enclosed space. Of course, it’s impossible to trade on the icy dust. Smitt, defective and sealed parts of material, structure that need to be dismantled, packaging and everything else go down the drain. It is unacceptable to throw away their humiliation.

Place the work tool there, the marks will not fall out. It is very important to ensure that the tools themselves and the extended poles (cables) do not respect anyone and do not get knocked underfoot. Any mechanisms, especially electric ones, are checked behind the ground, and before the cob it works with a fire, and at the cob of the skin working day. It is important to also check the integrity and suitability of the insulation. Before you raise a mountain of large leaves, you need to roll them in the presence of strong wind, otherwise they may be damaged.

All work with metal tiles is unpacked, wear gloves and overalls, because the edges of any sheet of metal tiles are sharp, and sometimes jagged.

Any instruction for professional workers will invariably remind you that this material is slimy And walk along the new trail carefully, only wearing a safety belt. Since the metal tiles are operated using special mechanisms, it is recommended to check their accuracy before starting it on the skin. You can’t walk or stand in front of someone or within any radius of someone else (the stronger the wind is within the permissible range, the larger the radius). Unbreakable packages must be picked up rather than pulled out of place.

A typical technological map requires that you do not lift the long shaped sheet by the edges; they need to be trimmed from the sides. If congestion is detected on the metal tiles, it is necessary to remove them using everyday methods, as sparingly as possible. Strong influences can cause harm. It is not always necessary to freeze all the leaves in one day, so you need to know how to organize their preservation. It is not possible to remove the metal tiles from the factory sealed packaging, they are placed on the floor in bars, the fragments of which allow the board to be steamed and steamed.

Metal tiles covered with plastic must be kept (both in packaging and without it) to a maximum of 14 dB. If it is necessary to save more time, fold the material in the same way as galvanized type.

The following instructions for laying sheets of material transfer the preliminary preparation:

  • additional support boards;
  • bars for scraping (fire or inspection hatch);
  • descents on the roof;
  • ceremonial gatherings, which are often held at the villages;
  • snow catchers;
  • roofing areas.

It is recommended to cut metal tiles to the required size using saws and metal scissors, hand-held electric saws with teeth made of hard alloys. A grinder with abrasive discs is not only unsatisfactory when cutting materials, it cannot be used closer than 10 m from a sheet, the fragments of sparks that scatter can damage the tiles. When preparing to fasten the coating, its surface needs to be loosened from chips, fasteners and rivets. The assembled metal tiles are filled with farbs suitable for the metal, at the eaves themselves. The same farbi is applied to the edges of the cuts and to all the rags that have appeared.

A special feature of sheets in 1/1025 format is that each of them is equipped with an additional transverse guide, which simplifies installation and blocks the destruction of the material. On the cover of a folding configuration such a cover can be placed only after careful measurements, and a large number of sheets must be insured by professionals.

When working on a tent roof, the cut blocks cannot be placed on the side of the slope, because they have a transverse width.

If you happen to step on the laying sheet of metal tiles, you may cut them in places, where the patches are installed.

It is not possible to correctly criticize this material because it is impossible to verify that the transverse folds are clearly sealed after inserting the skin block.

  • 0.48 x5;
  • 0.48 x6.5;
  • 0.48 x 8 cm.

A special role is assigned to screws with dimensions of 4.8x28 mm. Stinks are necessary to add to the coating in the lower parts of the roofs, at the eaves, and in the overlaps. It is recommended to secure the strips with them. Not all fasteners of the same size are suitable for work; in this case, it is recommended to tighten the screws with the ball of the clamp with the EPDM gum. Please note: it is categorically wrong to pick flowers, the shards of the stink are less reliable, the screws are lower.

The big benefit is to tighten the fastener all the way - at this point the surface can become covered with dents.

Driving the screws by hand is both impractical and tedious. The robot is assisted by an electric drill, which has the function of smoothly adjusting the wrappers and can operate in reverse mode. Shaped sheets should be placed under a cut of 1:4, and trapezoid-like sheets should be placed under a cut of 1:7. Some of the candidates appear to be consistent, since the profile is placed on the data with less difficulty. For a folded roof of the classic type, a minimum thickness of 1:12 is required.

The gable planks are fastened from the sides to the gable boards, and their tops are attached to the metal tiles. Place the fasteners at a distance of 80 cm, one side at a time, overlapping the gable planks with each other - 10 cm. Before installing the ridge shaped strip, it is necessary to secure the end caps with rivets. The overlap should be 13 cm, for smooth structures - 3 cm less. Two to five ridge strips are tied into a single block using screws and placed along the course of the ridge.

Then tighten the sticks between the bar and the profile sheet. The ridge elements themselves are punched with screws through the reinforcement to the sheets along the top of the ridges (go through one ridge). The best way to make a conic that adheres to the structure is this way: the end is cut under the slope and mounted firmly under the sheet.

To strengthen the shaped ridge elements, it is recommended to use self-adhesive semi-adhesive “Top Roll” type.

There is nothing foldable in all these robots. You also need to be respectful and careful.

However, despite the fact that there are still announcements about standard operating technology, you can make serious concessions or skip the important step to speed up your expenses and simplify your work.

In the opinion of the Fakhivts, clear ventilation of the space under the roof made of metal tiles satisfies three benefits:

  • waterproofing is guaranteed to break down to the metal itself;
  • I walk freely through the cornice;
  • passing through the plot under the wicker does not matter to anyone.

Only those who have installed this can guarantee stable insulation of the roof or attic.

Before work, check the beams and planks. There is no one to blame for the sign of mechanical ruin or even coma.

Do not use material with deep cracks, otherwise the dried wood is rotten. All flowers are made from stainless steel. The necessary death of them is recognized by resolving the war.

If you have to squeeze the boards together, you need to put a cordon on the blood for any reason.

Arrange horizontal rows of vessels so that the connected parts are mutually displaced. Self-adhesives, which are used to fasten the sheets of metal tiles, should be placed at least 6-8 pieces per 1 sq. m. m, even if it is important, it is necessary to press it down to the support. Roof tiles for a warm attic, completely install the windows of the living room on the grating, which is supported by roof beams. If the windows are very large, it is better to push them right up to the top.

Hydroisolating membranes with advanced diffusion are placed on the insulation unit without gaps, and the anti-condensation melt is placed through the gap. Between two seams, the lining can sag by a maximum of 20 mm (at the greatest height of 120 cm). If the grating is made of wood, it is necessary to place anti-condensation lining under the counter-lattice. This allows you to optimize the ventilation between the sheet covering and the melting. When a drain is created, the installation of the cornice is preceded by the placement of trimachs of the drains. And the cornice itself must end at the level of the third of the gutter, which goes in front of the wall.

You need to connect the cornice with the grating using self-drilling screws, with a flat top. It is necessary to joint two cornices with an overlap of 5-10 cm. The cornice roofing can be covered with corrugated sheets, metal siding or façade panels.

It is best to fasten the metal tiles at the top of the roof, and also use a hammer to secure the screws.

The lower groove is fastened to the clamps, and from the end of the sheet to the lowest point the groove may lose at least 10 cm.

The upper groove is installed after the laying of the metal tiles is completed. For this purpose, use roofing screws that are installed at the top of the roof with a edge of 20 ... 30 cm. In this case, it is unacceptable to destroy the lower groove. When fastening the gables, cover the upper gables of the gables. The ridge and metal tiles are covered with additional polyurethane foam, and the ends of the ridge element must be covered with a decorative cap. The sticks are often coated with sealants.

The wall profiles are made of viscosity, where the roofing goes not only to the walls, but also to the various pipes and dormer windows.

They are applied to the metal tiles and secured to the problematic elements. On the level of the cornice, after another layer of grating, various fences are installed. Their appearance and specific design is determined by the poor quality of the roofing and the type of tiles. For connection, it is recommended to use self-drilling self-drilling bolts made from an external zinc ball (5.5x25 mm for metal and 5.5x60 for wood).

It is unacceptable to strengthen the fence with just one metal tile.

To tie the garden structures together, tighten the bolts. The girders have to have snow-trapping elements installed, they are fastened to the tiles and the gasket, which strengthens, until the grating itself. In the transfers at this point, it is necessary to create lathing profiles with a width of 12 div (to be aligned along the axes of the profiles).

Snow guards are installed higher than the fence, and if the slope has reached 10 m, it is necessary to completely prevent their fall.

You can watch the installation process of metal tiles in the video below.

In many ways it is superior to other types of roofing coating, such as slate, galvanized plaque, bitumen shingles, etc. Laying the material must be trusted by the contractors, otherwise you can choose to install the metal tiles with your own hands.

Advantages to the material

The strengths of metal tiles include:


To a certain extent, you can reduce the noise level during atmospheric precipitation, otherwise you can avoid installing the ball.

The covering of the metal tile roofing begins with razrokunks.



Stage 1. Carrying out irrigation

Let us be aware of one important point right away. Visually, the wall, covered with this material, consists of rows and rows (the first ones run across the schema). The distance between rows is called crochet. If a sheet of tile has a length of 35 cm and six spines, it is called a module. The current market of paper materials sells sheets of 1, 3, 6 and 10 modules.


Important! You can install tiles of individual sizes, but the cost will be much more expensive. It should be remembered that the bottom of the sheet should not exceed 7 m and be less than 45 cm.

When unraveling and laying out, it is ensured by the fact that the sticks and hulls must be completely covered throughout the entire duration of the slope. Considering the number of modules, the quantity of material is calculated at a flat rate.



The metal tile itself also includes:

  • steel strips 2 m;
  • steel sheets 200x125 cm, which are painted in the same color as the tiles.

The dimensions of the strips are intended for covers with a cover of 30?, although with a cover it is possible to fit a cover of 11-70?.

Important! The minimum overlap that allows installation of tiles is 11ᵒ.

Stage 2. Preparation of everything necessary

To install the tiles you will need the following equipment:

  • metal knives;
  • drabini;
  • electric drill;
  • dovga lath;
  • screwdriver;
  • mounting stitch;
  • vimiruvalny device;
  • hammer;
  • marker;
  • features of individual protection (mittens, plastic eyepieces).

The following expendable materials will also be required:

  • waterproofing;
  • tiles;
  • roofing strips;
  • aero movie;
  • strips for ends and wrought iron;
  • decorative overlays;
  • self-tapping screws, crimp washers and before them;
  • boards 2.5 x10 cm;
  • straight darling.

Stage 3. Setup

As it was stated earlier, metal tiles are not very important, so they will not require a reinforced base - an initial sheathing of wooden slats will be required. The edge of the sheathing must be adjusted to the size of the tiles, so that during installation the screws are not driven in empty.



Stage 4. Thermal insulation


Thermal insulation is necessary not only to reduce heat loss, but also to protect against noise. The surface of the blood is covered with a vapor barrier material (for example, “Izospan” or “Yutafol”). Next, a ball of insulation is placed (no more than 25 cm thick), covered with antioxidant melt and secured to the top with wooden blocks.

Important! The material between the bars must sag a little (about 2 cm), so that the condensation drains away from the drain.

Stage 5. Installation of tiles. Basic rules

  1. You can choose one of two ways. If the laying of sheets begins with the right hand, then a new leather is applied to the front. As if by chance, the front leaves are superimposed.
  2. Due to the correct installation, several sheets of tiles, overlapped so one after another, are initially squashed, aligned, and then finally connected with one screw.
  3. Self-doses will be clear, and they also have a lot to do with the term coating service. These must be galvanized screws with cleft heads made of propylene rubber, which will seal the opening hermetically when tightened.
  4. At the place where four leaves are united, swelling occurs. This needs to be removed, now the part of the cut is cut and the capillary channel under the stamping rice is straightened.

Stage 6. Okremi elements

Krok 1. The end strips are fixed with an overlap (about 2 cm). The size of the ridge is adjusted to the width of the slope, otherwise the ridge can be inserted into the pediment.



Step 2. A roof strip is added, and then an additional crack is placed between it and a sheet of material.

Procedure 3. When blading pipes or windows, which are located below the frame, take sheets with one module - two pieces for the skin element of the structure.

Step 4. In case of weak slopes, an aeroroller is installed between the material and the ridge strip, which will prevent the penetration of atmospheric fallout under the ridge.

Krok 5. The bunk is fixed on strips placed at the ends of the structure. It is necessary to work with such an opening so that it protrudes by 2-3 cm. In the case of a flat gully, all the elements are overlapped, and if the wick is round, then it fits only with the lines of the profile.

It is also important to note that, if necessary, the planks of the wicker can be folded and unrolled, so that the cut of the cover can be repeated.

Stage 7. Blasting the rozholubka


For the cutaneous recess, an additional board is attached. Installation in this type starts from the bottom and overlaps 25-30 cm. The bottom strip is cut below the edge of the cornice, and beading is carried out along it. A thickening layer is placed under the skin burn and conic.


There is no gap between all the sheets (at least 8-10 cm). At the cut sheet, screws are tightened after one centimeter from the stamping line. At the same time, when fixing the fastening, it is carried out 25 cm in front of the axis of the groove. If everything has been cut correctly, then after completion the sheet at the place of fastening will roll up behind the board, and the groove will be removed.

Important! If damage has been allowed, then the fastening will be in other places and, as a result, gaps will be created on the surface, through which the coating will leak.

To cover the cut sheets, decorative overlays are used, when installed, it is necessary to remember these important points:


Most often the ear and the end of the grooves are located on the surface. Take, for example, the installation of an auditory window. Here a wooden board is placed under the crevice. For the window itself, a mortise is passed through the sheet, and material is placed along the walls to strengthen it. With this, the cornice overlaps with the plank.

Then the groove strips are fixed, with the edges cut in advance. The part that came out must stick very tightly to the sheet of tile.

Prices for different types of tiles

Shingles

Video - Laying metal tiles


Roll up the trapezoid or the tricutaneous

If the slopes of the roof have a trapezoid-like or knitted shape, it is necessary to install additional bars.

Krok 1. The bars are fastened along the sides of the ridge along the line of the bend.

Croque 2. The cornice board is installed, which must be assembled.

Croc 3. The cornice system is being developed.


Krok 4. The tiles are laid. It is aligned along the line of one of the edges and axis. The first sheet is an ancient cornice plan.

Important! It is unacceptable that the distance between the cut leaves inserted along the ridge should be more than 10 cm.

Lesson 5. To install the knots of the kovzan, the following steps are drawn up. The ridge strips align along the corner of the “ridge”. If the conic is straight, then the conic is cut straight to the ends, and if it is round in shape, then it is necessary to install an additional plug (plastic).

Krok 6. The ridge bar lies strictly along the axis of the “ridge”. It’s easy to finish Viconaty, since there are many sages, and as there are massacres, then, obviously, it’s important. To control the adhesion of the slopes, a stitch of bright color is used.



Special attention to the material

As was previously the case, the metal tiles are coated with a polymer ball, which protects against corrosion. Despite the constant influence of ultraviolet radiation and atmospheric fallout, the saw sooner or later becomes the cause of the collapse of the dry ball. I will also cover the metal surface with regular cleaning.

  1. The pond and dry leaves are washed with a hair brush.
  2. To remove more stubborn stains, you can use special products for cleaning polymer surfaces.
  3. You cannot use aggressive chemical agents - they can destroy the dry ball.
  4. The drains are cleaned with a jet of water under pressure. The strings must be directed from the conic to the eaves.
  5. To clean the air in the snow, you can use only tools, which, in principle, cause unnecessary damage to the surface.

To complete all these rules, you will serve about 50 years.

Metal tiles are one of the most popular roofing materials among homeowners. In addition to excellent performance characteristics, it has another important advantage - ease of installation. You can cover this type of coating sheets yourself.

What tools and materials are needed

  • Screwdriver and hammer;
  • Electric hacksaws and scissors;
  • Long slats and markers.

An electric hacksaw is required for cutting blood and boards. Use a metal knife to cut metal tiles.

This material cannot be cut with a grinder. Otherwise, if the upper ball is damaged by sparks, the sheet will not last long and you will have to end up with repairs and reinstalling the roofing material.

The materials you will need to prepare are:

  • Beam under the roof 50x150 mm;
  • Beam under the mauerlat 150x150 mm;
  • I will lath the board 25x100 mm;
  • 30x50 mm rail under the counter-lattice;
  • Waterproofing membrane;
  • Mineral wool;
  • Stained glass materials.

The cross section of lumber is visibly viscid. Otherwise, the owners of the cabin, after assembly, will have to repair the roof or reinstall it.

Besides the metal tile itself, it will be necessary to add various types of additional elements: cornice and end strips, grooves, ridge element, apron for the chimney, snow trimmers, etc.


Additional elements for metal tiles

How much does roofing with metal tiles cost?

The potential of this material depends on several factors:

  1. Type of polymer coating on the material;
  2. The foldability of the configuration of the dahu;
  3. Type of vikorista insulating material;
  4. Cover size.

The average 1 m2 roof with metal tiles costs approximately 1000 rubles. It will be difficult for him to create the front brutal kick. To find out the area in square meters, simply multiply by 1000.

Features of building a house with metal tiles

Of course, install this material onto the frame correctly. There is a lot of work involved in the folding of the sheet system, as well as in the opening and installation of the sheets themselves. For a long time it will not be possible to carry out repairs on the roofing and the correct lining with a waterproofing agent.

Preparation robots

Adjustments to the blood system begin with the measurement of all walls and the elimination of differences in their dimensions. The more important the structural elements of the booth box are, the less energy you will have to spend in the future on storing blood. All lumber before the cob is harvested and dried under a canopy for several months. The mauerlat is installed first, and then the beams under the overlap.

Freeze the material

To put together a plan for the covering, create different kinds of creatures. For example, all the videos on this topic on the Internet present this process like this:

  1. We first visualize the exact depth of all the walls of the box. Those going out from here indicate the area of ​​the slopes;
  2. This means there will be open doors, ventilation openings, attic windows, etc.

It is important to remove the layers of sheets and timber before obtaining the results.

Destruction of lumber

Once the project has been completed, you can begin to harvest the necessary lumber. There's a lot of it lying in the first layer from the corner of the slopes and the flatness of the roof. Most often, under the metal tiles, a double-edged roof with a bend of 30-35 g is applied.

The thickness of the timber on the base of the legs depends on the type of structure they are going to be installed in, the height of the covering and its dimensions.

The amount of one leg is calculated using the formula c = √(v2 + m2), where v is the height of the cover, and m is half the amount of shedding.

The depth between the bloody legs on the floor with a metal tile roof should be 80-100 cm (depending on the width of the sheets). You can manage the amount of blood you need like this:

  • Divide the remainder of the wall into the selected crop;
  • Add one to the final result and round everything up.

The system of roofs under metal tiles does not support the existing additional reinforcement. The amount of necessary lattice material is determined due to the fact that the edge between the elements must be 35-40 cm.

Folding of the blood system

Attachment to the frame covering is carried out using the following technology:

  1. Mauerlat is fixed on the walls. It can be secured with studs embedded in the masonry, or anchor bolts poured into the upper reinforcing belt;
  2. Mount the rocks. The easiest way is to fix the legs on the support beam behind the help of some piles (preferably galvanized ones, otherwise you will end up having to repair the roof by replacing them). The top of the crowns is most often cut under the main cut and they are fastened in pairs behind the help of steel strips and crosswise.

The frame has been coated and covered

On large slopes and high slopes, ridge beams are often used. At this point, the blood is secured with strips above it and additionally pulled together with little bundles. The ridge beam itself is mounted on posts, secured to the base plate of the short walls of the booth box.

Hydraulic thermal insulation device

Sometimes cold roofing is made from metal tiles. However, most often they are still insulated, which will significantly improve their performance characteristics. As a support for insulation from the side of the fireplace, a vikorist is installed or a plank grate is thinned out. Insert the cotton between the bloods side by side. The top needs to be covered with waterproofing material and secured with bars.


Waterproofing scheme

Spread the smudge horizontally with an overlap of 15 cm. Do not stretch the smudge too much. Otherwise, when the blood system moves through the shrinkage of the walls and the wind, it may tear. The sag of the spittle may become about 2 cm.

Lathing roofing

The base for the metal tiles should be correctly taken from wide boards (not less than 20 cm). The thin material may become damaged under the influence of unfavorable weather factors. Attachment of the sheathing is carried out from the vertical poles and the vertical level.

Stand between the two boards of the sheathing that are first at the bottom, but it is even small - 10-15 cm. The sheathing is laminated with fastening elements two lengths up to the skin edge. With this method, you can select a reliable base under the sheet of metal tiles.

How to properly unpack metal tiles

After folding the lathing, you can complete the installation of the roofing sheets themselves. First of all, first of all, make an accurate calculation of the required quantity. A video demonstrating the process of completing these operations is available on the Internet. You can, of course, marvel at this, but in principle there is nothing complicated in such a structure. Construct this operation like this:

  • Calculate the area of ​​the skin scylum;
  • It is necessary to cover a number of sheets, covering their width and depth;
  • Add up the results.

How to properly install cornice strips and lower grooves.

The instructions for attaching these elements are complicated. Install the cornice strip before the leaves are installed. The front plate is stuffed in front. The gutter brackets are attached to it. Then you can proceed to fastening the bar itself.


Installation of cornice strips

There is one more element that needs to be installed up to the roof of the roof covering of the slopes with metal tiles - at the bottom of the grooves. Their installation follows the following recommendations:

  • The lathing under the hollow is to blame;
  • Installation of the groove elements begins from bottom to top;
  • The lower skin element of the track overlaps the upper one by at least 10 cm.

Vibir metal tiles

Types of metal tiles include sheet metal. When choosing this material, ensure that:

  1. The most reliable are the sheets made from steel less than 0.45 mm;
  2. In the average smoothie of Russia, you need to create inexpensive sheets with a dry polyester ball;
  3. The warranty period for good material is no less than 10-15 years. Owners of a cabin who bought such material will not have to pay for its repairs in case of any problems.

Installation of sheets

Well, now let’s marvel at how I covered the metal tiles with my own hands. Installation of sheets starts from the bottom. When folding the first row, insert a curtain rod approximately 5 cm wide. Well, the instructions themselves from the binder look like this:

  1. The first sheet is fastened with one screw at the very top;
  2. Then another number of arches (2-3) are secured along the side edge;
  3. The entire pack is carefully aligned and secured to the cover frame.

Installation of additional elements

Once all the slopes are sheathed, you can proceed to installing additional elements. Attach the top strips of the grooves to the base. It is important to attribute this appearance to a purely decorative function. Mount them on a reinforcement that is self-expanding.

At the next stage, the end elements are secured to the gables. Next comes the installation of the wrought iron. Attach it in the same way as the upper grooves on the crevice stitch.

Covering the attic roof

The cleaning of the blood system of the attic roof is carried out as follows:

  1. The racks are fastened under the covering, running and tightening;
  2. The bunk is installed. Its racks are secured in the middle of the puffs;
  3. Mounted on layers, and then hanging ones;
  4. The sheathing is stuffed according to the characteristics of the roofing material.

Metal tiles are used to cover the sheathing of the side roofs, and then the hanging roofs. On the rest, it’s just as if I’m afraid to hang on the cornice.

Deaks of thin installation of metal tiles

The work of installing the sheets of responsibility is carried out by at least two individuals with the following recommendations:

  1. The capillary grooves may be completely blocked by the adjacent sheets;
  2. All leaves must be carefully aligned parallel to the cornice.

Krom dakh: how to get around dimar


Scheme for bypassing a pipe with metal tiles

The installation of the metal tile roof should be such that water does not leak into the area under the roof from the area where the material contacts the chimney pipe. For this purpose, special aprons are used. The instructions for their installation are as follows:

  1. Before laying the metal tiles, a grate is filled around the pipe. A waterproofing material is glued onto it with an overlap of 15-20 cm on the pipe walls. The dimara itself should have a groove along the entire perimeter.
  2. After laying the metal tiles, first the lower apron is installed, then the upper one. The curved edges of the vertical parts are inserted into the groove.

Thin installation of cornice strips

The cornice and end strips must be fixed to the wood of the frame with a edge of approximately 30 cm. If this is not done properly, stinks can appear in the future, and repairs that no one needs will end up being made. It is not recommended to install them. The skin on the step must be at least 1 cm in front. Fastening of these elements is carried out with galvanized bolts or screws in a staggered order.

Installation of grooves: features

The lower groove is secured with self-tapping screws into the leather latina. The overlap on the slope must be at least 25 cm. In this case, it will not be possible to repair the roof through the frame, which is rotten. Install the upper groove in such a way as not to damage the lower one. Attach them to the metal tiles either on special rolls or on self-tapping screws (skin).

Attaching sheets to the roofing areas


Vlashtuvannya evils dahu

As I thought, in the attic mansards, metal tiles should be laid on the roof. Before installation, when installing on the edges of the slopes of such a blood system, be sure to install a drip bar (with a 30 cm edge) for reliability.

However, the configuration has a different type of evil - with a negative side. They close it approximately the same way as the groin. The keel in this section is laid at such a width that the upper part of the slope extends at least 35 cm, and the lower part - 15 cm. The lathing under the roof is also necessary.

Installation of snow trimmers

This additional element should be mounted on flat surfaces to prevent snow avalanches. Instructions for installing snow guards include the following steps:

  1. The fastening is vibrated with long self-tapping screws in the armor;
  2. For metal tiles, it is necessary to have openings and gaskets with gum cracks;
  3. The brackets must be screwed correctly with a screw of at least 35 inches from the eaves.

Installation of bliskavkozahist


Scheme of bliskavkozahistu dahu with metal tiles

This system may be completely assembled. If the flashlight is attracted by the metal coating, you will have to endure expensive repairs to the coating. And, of course, natural electrical discharge is a very dangerous phenomenon for those who live in small apartments. The blast defense is collected from offensive elements:

  1. Bliskavkopriymach, which has a cut length of 5 m;
  2. Strumovivdvennya (dart with a round brim);
  3. Grounding device with metal strips no less than 150 mm thick.

The clamp is secured to the wicker cover. The thread is wrapped around the chimney and connected from the middle of the thread. The grounder digs into the ground to a depth of at least 80 cm and connects it to the spark plug behind the additional blast pipe.

Safety equipment

The installation of metal tile sheets is subject to the following safety rules:

  1. Open the sheets and place them on the sides and put them on the mittens;
  2. Take the leaves by the edges from the sides;
  3. For transferring along long slopes, special descents are needed;
  4. You can walk on the cover in a soft way. In this case there is no need for pre-construction repairs through damage to the surface.

Visnovok

As you know, the installation of metal tiles on the right is clearly awkward. There are also numerous videos and photos available to confirm this. The Krokvyana system under this material may not be too tight, since your vagina is not particularly large. The stains and screens in this area are installed using standard methods. When installing the sheets themselves, follow all the necessary technologies: do not cut the material with a grinder and correctly fasten all additional elements. In this case, the coating will be reliable and repairs will not be required for a long time.
Detailed instructions for installing metal roofing are presented in the video.

Today, when living in a living room, there are different types of roofing design, or, in the simplest way, cold water. Such a device is perfectly suitable if the open space is not treated as a living space. The very scheme of such a house is very simple: load-bearing structures, waterproofing, lathing and counter lathing plus roofing material.

The peculiarities of installing such a cold coating lie in the fact that it is necessary to provide a ventilation gap to remove condensation in order to protect not only the structures that are being supported, but also the roofing covering of the metal skull. and from the negative influx of vologi.

The installation itself of such a structure does not involve any kind of folding, but it is important to properly fasten the profiled metal sheet in such a way that debris does not penetrate through the joints under its surface. Before you begin your daily routine, you must complete all the necessary constructions, unravel the skin, cover the edges of the sheathing, and figure out the details.

Features of cold roofing

The cold air separates from the warm one behind its device, although its design itself is extremely simple. The only thing that needs to be covered is a coating option. When installing metal tiles, ensure a ventilation gap for proper removal of condensate from the space under the roof. Care must be taken to ensure that the steel sheet does not become too weak to the point of corrosion.

The installation of a cold breath involves the installation of a blood system, on which a membrane or polyethylene melt is placed for waterproofing. After which the counter-lattice is nailed, the sheathing and covering look like metal tiles.

The peculiarities of such a feature are the constant presence of insulation in the ball, the presence under the shoe and on the slopes for removing hair. Design and installation are not difficult, it’s important to carry out all the front installations correctly.

The installation itself includes the following features:

  1. If it is planned in the near future, then it is necessary to be very careful in choosing a membrane to protect against excess moisture. For a new attic, specialized waterproofing in the form of membranes made from PVC is more suitable.
  2. Since insulation is not planned, micro-perforated waterproofing is used, designed specifically for cold roofs. Such a lining does not allow the installation of thermal insulation materials from the railing, so that with further insulation it will be lost on the new membrane. If this is not the case, then the roof will practically not be protected from moisture, the insulation will be permanently wet, and the roof will be susceptible to corrosion.

The devilishness works

To install the hydrochemical membrane, it is necessary to remember that its installation requires a slight sag of approximately 20 mm. This device allows you to ensure that the condensation drains away, thereby preventing the blood and other elements from being exposed to moisture. In order for the water to effectively evaporate and not stagnate, creating an unpleasant atmosphere, it is necessary to ensure the presence of a ventilation gap that exists between the waterproofing lining and the woven carpet.

This opening allows the wind to circulate without interruption in the space under the roof, removing all traces of condensation. The membrane itself is responsible for the protection of the coating, causing ruptures and other defects, attaching the trace, vikorist, and a stapler.

The edges of the mold need to be secured with additional tape.

Based on the characteristics of cold roofing, it is clear that they can be adapted to any climatic region. Everyone knows that this type of dahu is absolutely not suitable for the snow region, but that’s not the case. The cold place here itself is a traditional solution for a living room. The roof itself must be insulated so that the heat of the cold roof does not affect the internal microclimate of the upper surfaces. The roof itself may not be damaged, since the installation of an insulation ball between the top surface and the under-roof area eliminates all problems associated with heat loss.

When setting up cold water, do not forget about this stage of operation, such as proper insulation of technological openings and exits. For this purpose, all ventilation shafts, chambers, and entrances to the surface must be thermally insulated. It is necessary to avoid such inconveniences as freezing, condensation, fall penetration, and heat loss.

To cover such a structure, a highly durable covering material can be used. Most often this is metal tiles, installation of which does not pose any problems. This option is considered optimal, since all installation work is completed in the shortest possible hour, there is no need to carry out additional work. It is possible to cover other materials, for example, clay tiles. But here there are a number of technological difficulties involved in the installation of road and folding materials. Therefore, the use of metal profiled sheets is very important.

Roofing cake for metal tiles

Washing the cold roofing under metal tiles is one of the simplest options. In addition to load-bearing structures, this includes roofing material such as metal tiles, grating, and a ball of waterproofing. Installation of such a covering is very simple: a waterproofing film is attached to the blood system using a stapler or various galvanized nails. After this, they are pressed with wood screws, which will be used to fasten the counter-lattice, which will lie under the type of sheet of metal tile. The size of such boards should be 25 by 100 mm; in some cases, a heavy coating of sheets of plywood or chipboard is used.

Hydroisolating lining (this can be a special PVC membrane or polyethylene lining) should be laid on surfaces with slight sagging. In this case, it is unacceptable to develop and other defects. The amount of sagging in the coating may become 15 to 25 mm. This is to ensure proper ventilation of the lower side of the waterproofing, draining the condensate from it to the eaves strip, then to the drainage tray. If you don’t earn something, then you’ll be shabby to the point of negative influx of vologis, but you’ll bring it to ruin.

When removing cold air from metal tiles, it is necessary to remember that a metal sheet and a thin ball of waterproofing do not provide adequate protection from noise that can occur with heavy roofing. Moreover, cold roofings made from steel sheets rarely crumble without insulation, which acts as an excellent sound insulator. It's colder than the mountain, so he won't be victorious.

The structure of such a dahu includes the following obligatory balls:

  1. On the side of the living quarters there is a ball of vapor barrier with one-way penetration, so that the condensate is released from the chamber, but does not penetrate the middle.
  2. Krokvyana system dahu, late runs, so that the structure is bearing.
  3. Waterproofing. The melt is allowed to sag a little to ensure that condensation is removed.
  4. Counter-lattice, the installation of which is carried out parallel to the installation of the roofs. The counter batten boards are pressed with waterproofing, ensuring additional fastening.
  5. The sheathing of the cold frame is made from a wooden beam, the cut of which is usually 50 by 50 mm. Installation is carried out with a edge of 35-45 cm from the edge of the slopes. The roof can be cut, as well as the material for the sheathing, but it depends on what type of metal tiles are vicorized, what kind of material is used for covering the walls.
  6. Sheets of metal tiles.

What else is needed?

To install a stove with such a design, it is necessary to use the simplest tools and materials that are not subject to high temperatures. Use wooden boards for ventilating the blood system, battens and counter-lattens and then prepare a vapor barrier, a waterproofing membrane, and flexible sheets of metal tiles. As fastening elements, staples, galvanized brackets, self-tapping screws for wood and metal are used. When unfolding steel sheets, it is necessary to remember that various additional elements may be needed, for example, ridge tiles, grooves, cornices, etc.

The application of a cold roof is damaged by a warm one, so that in this case the ball of insulation is not exposed, so that there is no ball of insulation between the vapor barrier and the waterproofing membrane. Such stagnation is the case if the mountainous expanse under them is not victorious.

relooks