Homemade lathes from a drill. How to make a homemade lathe from a drill for home

Drawings of the main components of a homemade lathe from a drill (click to enlarge)

Stanina

This is the basis of the device, which is responsible for the reliable fastening of its constituent elements and their exact position relative to each other. This piece of lathe equipment also ensures its stability. Stationary units have a massive base, which is located on special legs. For bench-top machines that can be easily carried to any convenient place, the bed is made in a lighter weight.

Headstock

This element of the turning equipment is responsible for fixing and rotating the workpiece to be processed, which is fixed in a chuck installed in the spindle assembly. On small turning units, including self-made ones, the headstock can move along the bed guides. This is required in order to align and adjust the relative position of the structural elements of the device. In the course of processing, this machine unit is securely fixed. On stationary models of turning units, this unit is stationary, it is made integral with the bed.

Tailstock

This is a movable unit of the machine, which is responsible for fixing and pressing the workpiece to the chuck when processing it in the centers. Moving freely along the bed guides, the tailstock allows you to set and process parts of various lengths on a lathe. A very important requirement for this structural element is its perfect alignment with respect to the spindle assembly.

Support

On mini-machines, including on units made by hand on the basis of a drill, the role of this unit is played by a handyman, which should be able to move along the bed guides and be securely fixed in the working position. The handguard on small devices acts as a stop for the cutters, and the cutting tool itself is pressed against the supporting surface and held on it manually.

A version of the machine with a metal bed made of. By bolting the bed to a sturdy workbench, a very stable structure can be obtained that will allow you to work with metal.

General view of the machine Drill mount Tailstock
Attachment of the support plate View as assembled with the workpiece using the stop at an angle

On any lathe, its head and tailstock have the same degree of freedom and can only move along the axis of rotation, and the caliper (or handguard) can move in both the longitudinal and transverse directions. The ability to move the handrail in the lateral direction is also important in order to minimize the lever arm created by the cutter. If the distance from the end face of the support surface of the handguard to the workpiece to be processed is large, it will be very difficult to keep. The tool can simply be pulled out of the operator's hand, resulting in serious injury.

How to make a lathe with your own hands

Making a small lathe with your own hands will be much easier if your workshop has a workbench with a flat and solid work surface. In this case, you do not have to spend time and effort searching. An electric drill, which will simultaneously act as a headstock and a rotation drive, is fixed on such a surface with a clamp and a clamp fixed on the tool neck.

Now you need to make an emphasis that will act as a tailstock. Such a stop, installed opposite the fixed tool, can be made from a pair of wooden blocks and an adjusting screw, the end of which is sharpened for a taper. If you plan to process not very massive wood blanks on your homemade machine from a drill, then you can fix such an emphasis on the surface of the desktop using a clamp.

You can also use a block of wood as a guide to the support surface of which you will press the cutting tool. It is fixed on the surface of the workbench with a clamp.

Obviously, using available and inexpensive materials, you can make a simple lathe with your own hands, on which various woodworking operations are successfully performed. Using such a simple device, made on the basis of a drill, you can carve various parts out of wood: handles for doors and tools, structural elements of stairs, decorative items.

Scheme and drawing of the machine on the base of the channel

The design of such drill-based machines and the options for their execution may be different. In order not to understand the process from scratch, you can find on the Internet a photo of the most suitable device for you and make it yourself. However, no matter what scheme you use to make a turning device out of a drill, it is very important to ensure the most accurate centering of the axis of rotation of the spindle assembly and the tapered adjusting screw located on the tailstock.

If you are going to make a machine on which it will be possible to perform turning operations on metal, and not only on wood, then it is better to make it according to all the rules. First of all, focusing on the design of the existing drill and the dimensions of the workpieces that will be processed on such a device, it is necessary to complete a drawing, select a fastener of a certain shape and type to complete. As a basis for the drawing, you can take a photo of similar units that many home craftsmen make for themselves.

Quite a simple version of a lathe with a wooden bed. This kind of design is unlikely to allow working with metal, but it will do quite well for processing wood.

Assembled machine Bed Attach the drill to the bed
Tailstock design Wood work clamp Support platform

A self-made lathe for turning works, made according to all the rules, is a rigid structure on which the mutual alignment of the headstock and tailstock does not change. All movable elements of such a device, mounted on a reliable bed, move along its guides. If you purchase or make a faceplate with your own hands, which will be fixed in the drill chuck, it will be possible to process workpieces of even large diameter on such a unit.

On a drill, all elements of which are fixed on a rigid frame, you can work on metal, but only on a soft one (this includes alloys based on aluminum and copper). On such a machine, workpieces are processed using a file, a file and sandpaper wrapped around a bar. In this case, the tool used to clamp the tool will be sufficient. If you plan to work with turning tools, then you cannot do without a support, the movement of which in the longitudinal and transverse directions is provided by the screw mechanism.

A factory turning device for a drill, like the one shown in the photo GRIZZLY H2669, will cost about 5,000 rubles without delivery

Additional accessories

The functionality of a homemade turning unit can be significantly expanded if you equip it with additional attachments and accessories. These opportunities include, in particular:

• applying paint to a rotating part, which allows you to get very interesting patterns;
• making spiral incisions on the workpiece;
• winding of transformers, etc.

If you make a special attachment for the machine based on a drill, which is called a copier, you can produce whole batches of identical parts at home using one template. It is very important, even at the design stage of a home-made machine, to provide for all the options for its use in order to immediately take this into account in its design.

In summary, it's worth noting that the technical capabilities of your DIY lathe can be very impressive. It is important to correctly develop the design of such a machine and select high-quality and reliable components for its manufacture.

Wooden products always look interesting, especially chiseled ones, when a beautiful and unique structure of wood looms. Even if the elements during turning are identical in shape and size, you will not find two identical ones.

It is known that one of the hobbies of Peter I was working on a lathe, perhaps this.

Therefore, no one will call this business "not royal", and many can do a wood lathe with their own hands, and there are a lot of options for simple solutions here. We will offer you several successful, in our opinion, completed projects.

What can you make a wood lathe

Making such a machine is not so difficult. First, let's look at its schematic diagram.

The headstock is rigidly attached to the bed. It can contain either an electric motor or a device with pulleys to which torque is transmitted from an external motor. This can be a self-centering chuck, a crown washer, or a faceplate with a tapered threaded rod. The tailstock can move along the bed and has a workpiece centering and clamping device. The stop is also movable relative to the bed in 3 planes.

The bed of a homemade wood lathe can be made from metal or from wood itself or thick plywood. Exclusively of metal must be made either entirely, or at least the main elements of the headstock and tailstock.

Most often, corners are used for the manufacture of a metal bed - they are the easiest to tighten and fasten the movable elements of the machine and they have a high degree of dimensional stability. But you can use a channel or a profile pipe.

Sometimes a groove is milled for moving elements in the channel.

The design solutions of the headstock and tailstock can be different, but the main condition - the ideal alignment of their centers, must be strictly observed. If the electric motor itself plays the role of the headstock, then the height of the tailstock is adjusted to fit it.

This is the easiest way to drive a lathe, but the motor parameters should be close to universal ones:

• rotation speed 1500 rpm;
• power - from 120 watts.

The output shaft of such an engine can be machined under a Morse taper for attaching a three-jaw chuck from an electric drill, in which, in turn, either a threaded rod or a crown is clamped. Less often, a large self-clamping chuck is installed on the motor shaft through a faceplate, which must be machined separately.

Craftsmen make wooden full-size lathes rather not for practical reasons, but out of love for the material itself and to demonstrate its design capabilities, although these can be full-featured devices that are in no way inferior in practical terms to their steel counterparts.

True, it will take 2 times more time to make such a handsome man than to produce metal, but this is compensated by the difference in the cost of materials.

Do-it-yourself metal lathe for wood: drawing

For those who do not want to reinvent the wheel, we offer a drawing of a universal, in terms of the dimensions of the processed parts, a lathe for wood, created on the basis of steel corners 50x50.

The drawing does not indicate the diameter of the hole for the central shaft of the headstock, because it will depend on the selected type of drive, and only the distance to its center is indicated. Also, if a shaft with pulleys is installed in the headstock, then this particular part will need to be made in duplicate and the second one will be installed in the back of the headstock. Of course, it is possible to install in it a tube with bearings on which the central shaft rotates with pulleys brought out of the headstock.

On such a machine, it will be possible to make table legs and even balusters. If you need longer turned products, the bed will need to be lengthened. Make all other parts of the specified dimensions, except that you also slightly increase the length of the stop.

A cutting tool for a wood lathe can be purchased or made by yourself.

The main incisors are: reyer - passing or roughing cutter (in photos 2 and 3 on the right) and meisel - finishing cutter (in the photo - 2 middle cutters). The rest are used to obtain sharp depressions of various shapes (left) and rounded depressions (right).

A small metal lathe can be made as shown in the video, it also shows the dimensions of all parts:

But for turning a large number, especially long, similar parts, it is worth thinking about making a machine with a copier.

Do-it-yourself wood lathe with a copier: video

Actually, the machine itself can be the same as proposed above, only its design will need to be finalized, and one of the universal woodworking power tools should be used as a cutting tool - more often it is a grinder.

A flat rail serves as a template for a product of a regular cylindrical shape, turned with a copier. If you need to get a complex multi-stage shape, then its profile is cut out on a flat template. It can be metal, plywood, wood, plastic, etc. and be installed in different places depending on the design features of the machines.

Consider the structure of one of these machines.

The workpiece in this machine is clamped between the crown of the headstock and the fixed cone of the tailstock. The tailstock cone is fixed with a locknut.

The copier is fixed on the pivot shaft on 2 bearings and a tension roller from the automotive timing drive, allowing it to move freely along the shaft.

The shaft, in turn, is mounted on the base also on bearings, which make it easy to rotate around the axis.

A grinder is rigidly fixed on the copier, with paired discs mounted on it with a slight offset, allowing for better and cleaner turning.

Saws should be taken with victorious solders and large teeth, which contribute to better chip evacuation.

The template can be mounted in a convenient place that does not interfere with turning. From the template to the copier, the profile picture is transmitted using a leash, but its shape and length must be consistent with this place. The thinner the tip of the leash is, the more accurately it will transfer the shape from the template to the workpiece, but at the same time it must be quite firm and tough.

An interesting option is when the role of a template is played by a reference part. The system proposed by the author of the following video provides just such an opportunity, and adjusting its fastening allows you to make some adjustments to the thickness of the replicated turned parts.

Using a circular saw instead of a grinder, with a template placed in front, is also a rather progressive view of a wood lathe with a copier. It allows you to make it more compact, but the combination of the control handle with the leash does not allow it to be thin enough, so this arrangement will not produce a very accurate shape transfer.

And two discs should also be put on the saw.

DIY wood lathe from a drill

Of course, the easiest thing will be to make a wood lathe using a standard power tool, primarily a drill, although there are also factory-made devices.

It is desirable that the drill has sufficient power, a lock button in the on position and speed control.

Let's consider several schemes and start with the simplest one, when the use of a tailstock is not required. This is possible when making small-diameter and not very long products.

In this case, it is quite a convenient way to fix the drill itself, install a piece of threaded rod or the threaded part of a powerful self-tapping screw in the drill chuck, and drill a hole of the corresponding diameter in the workpiece for them. Any bar corresponding in height will fit as a stop.

And here is the video that fits:

If you cannot do without a tailstock, then its function can be partially performed by a locksmith's vice, just when fastening the drill will need to be positioned relative to them.

And yet the most common are homemade drill-based lathes with a wooden bed and at least primitive tailstock.

By the way, the role of a crown fixed in a self-clamping drill chuck can be successfully performed by a feather drill for wood. So that it does not start removing chips from the end of the workpiece when the tool is brought in, at this end you need to make a slot for the wings of the drill and drill the center.

The lathe shown in the video from a powerful drill is not much inferior to stationary lathes designed for processing parts of the same dimensions, and its ability to obtain higher revolutions than theirs allows for better finishing of products.

To create a home lathe, you can use not only a drill, but also an angle grinder.

True, it is desirable that it have speed control, because 10 or more thousand rpm for such machines is too much.

For home craftsmen who know how and who prefer to work with metal, we offer such a lathe construction from an electric drill.

But the self-clamping chuck as a tailstock can be used in any other design.

And a small video in the end. It may seem that this is a toy machine, but with its help it is really possible to make a fairly large list of useful things: from door handles and handles to hand tools to chess pieces.

Dear readers, if you have any questions, ask them using the form below. We will be glad to communicate with you;)

Greetings to the self-made ones, I present to your judgment an interesting one of the available materials. The author used plywood as a basis. The entire frame is made from it, including the headstock. The heart of the machine is a screwdriver or drill. The revs and torque are enough for wood processing. Now you can easily carve a handle for a tool, or even a vase or something like that. It is also quite convenient to grind on this machine. Let's take a closer look at how to assemble one!

Materials and tools used

List of materials:
- drill or screwdriver;
- wood glue;
- plywood;
- self-tapping screws;
- bolts, nuts, washers, etc.;
- threaded rods;
- 4 bearings;
- epoxy adhesive;
- varnish;
- steel clamp.

Tool list:
- a circular saw;
- drill;
- orbital grinder;
- tap for threading;
- jigsaw;
- hacksaw;
- clamps.

Lathe making process:

Step one. We make the base
We use plywood for making the base. The required lengths are cut, then connected by using glue and self-tapping screws. The essence of the base is to get grooves, these will be the guides for the headstock. The fixing will take place using bolts and nuts.

Step two. Headstock making
We will also make the headstock from plywood, and to get the desired thickness, we glue several sheets together. We get a strong and durable material. We form the desired shape, cut off the excess and grind. The headstock is screwed to the base, which will move along the platform. For a reliable connection, the abutting parts are lubricated with wood glue. So we made two great headstock.

Step three. We make clamps
The clamps are needed in order to fix the headstock. We also make these parts from plywood, cut out “twists” that fit the shape, glue them together, and then drill holes. Now it remains to cut the carvings in the wood. Plywood is a fairly hard material, the thread must withstand, although this is not the best option, because over time the thread will deteriorate anyway. Better to glue steel nuts inside.

Step four. Modifying the heads of the fixing bolts
To prevent the heads from being pulled out of the grooves under load, you need to make them bigger heads. For these purposes, the author grinds out details from plywood and cuts out the seats for the heads. That's all, now we have got excellent reliable clamps for the headstock.

Step five. Lathe tool
We also make a hand-hand from plywood, cut, glue, twist. For more details, see the photo and video. The bracing should be removable and preferably adjustable. We fasten it with a bolt to the base.

Step six. Drill platform and switch
Now you need to install a drill on the base. We make a small "table" of plywood under the drill, fasten it to the base with self-tapping screws. Next, holes are drilled in this table, and a steel clamp is installed. That's all, we use this clamp to install the drill.

We also need to muddle the trigger for the drill. We cut out a piece from plywood, drill a hole and cut a thread for a bolt. We install the part opposite the trigger. Now, when tightening the bolt, it will press the trigger and the drill will be turned on to the desired speed.

Step seven. Working shaft
The working shaft is made from a threaded rod, which is fixed with nuts. The shaft rotates on bearings that are installed in the headstock. A furniture nut is installed at the end of the shaft, which is designed to fix the workpiece.
Well, a similar shaft is installed in the thrust headstock, but without the furniture nut.

Step eight. First tests
We install the drill in its place and connect it to the machine. Install the nut head in the drill chuck. The first tests showed that the workpiece slips under load. To solve this problem, we remove the furniture nut and modify it. Its edges need to be bent and sharpened more so that they dig into the workpiece. After such modernization, the process of work went as expected. The author easily carried out turning work, and then grinding.

Step nine. Further refinement
Finally, we cover the product with varnish so that the machine will serve us for a long time. As for those places where the grandmothers slide, they need to be thoroughly sanded after the varnish so that everything glides easily.

An electric drill is a versatile tool, since not only drills and cutters, but also wooden parts can be clamped into its chuck, if the device is used in a lathe. The need for a drilling machine arises when a home craftsman needs to drill holes strictly at right angles... In this case, the master is faced with a choice: buy a ready-made drill stand or make a machine from a drill with his own hands. We will tell you how to implement the second option.

When making a stand for fixing a drill, it is necessary to understand the principle of its operation, and to show imagination in the manufacture of its individual units.

Stand option No. 1

For example, below are instructions for making a drill attachment from simple materials at hand.

1. To attach the drill to the slide, clamps are used, under which a rubber gasket is placed.
2. To raise and lower the movable part of the slide, to which the power tool is attached, a stand with a lever is used.
   
3. To limit the drilling depth, an adjustable stop is installed under the lever.
4. The fixed part of the slide is attached to the pipe with a flange.
   
5. The vertical and horizontal part of the pipe is connected with a square. Required when connecting maintain a right angle... The vertical tube is fixed in a flange bolted to the bed. Instead of a pipe, you can use “kerchiefs” made of chipboard, which are fixed to the frame and to the fixed part of the slide using euro screws (confirmations).
6. On the moving platform, it is necessary to make 4 holes for the clamps used to clamp the body of the apparatus. Also on the side that will be turned to the fixed part of the rack, it is necessary to glue the slats. For better gliding, they are lubricated with paraffin.
   
   
7. To prevent the body of the device from dropping, 2 stops can be installed at the bottom, as shown in the figure.
   
   
8. To align the unit body at a right angle, you can glue a rail of the required thickness (the thickness is determined by the selection method).
   
   
9. The guides in this design are made of aluminum profile... But you can also replace them with ball (telescopic) guides, which are used to install boxes in furniture. The task of the guides is a rigid (without backlash) and at the same time movable connection of the rack parts.
   
   

   

10. To assemble the lever, and at the same time it could move, the nut should not be tightened all the way. To fix the nut and prevent its spontaneous unscrewing, another one is used, which is screwed next to it.
    
    
11. The part of the arm attached to the movable platform should be rounded at the end.
    
    
12. If you require the unit to rise to the upper position after drilling, you can install the spring by attaching one end of it to the movable platform and the other to the horizontal part of the pipe. If the spring is short, you can lengthen it with a cord.

Stand option No. 2

The picture below shows another homemade drilling machine, the stand for which can be made from thick plywood, and the rest of the parts from a wooden bar.

The role of a guide in a drilling machine made of a drill is played by an aluminum profile. But, if you do not find such a profile, then you can replace it with furniture guides (telescopic).

Stand option no. 3

If you have lying around in your house photographic enlarger of Soviet times, then it can serve as the basis for a drill stand. This design already has rigid guides, as well as a gear mechanism that provides vertical movement of the carriage along them.

You only need to slightly modify the design by attaching clamps to the carriage, and comfortable handles to the height adjuster.

Well, if you do not have a desire to design accessories for a drill with your own hands, or you just don’t have time for this, but you still need to drill a hole with a drill strictly at a right angle, then you can buy a ready-made stand at a price of about 1200 rubles.

Other options for machine tools from a drill

The drilling machine can serve as a motor for constructing various woodworking tools. Let's consider what else you can make a machine from a drill with your own hands.

Fraser

To make a router using a drill, you need to take a regular clamp used for water pipes.

You will also need to find some chipboard (you can use a slab from old furniture), and then assemble such a structure as in the picture below.

This kind of router can be used, for example, for milling a groove in the end of a table top, for filling a T-shaped profile or for curly milling of the ends of wooden parts. Of course, it is difficult to achieve good milling quality in this way, since the machine will not have enough speed. For comparison: the spindle of the router can rotate at a speed of 26,000 rpm. and more, due to which a high quality surface finish is achieved.

You can also make a milling machine out of a drill by clamping it in the way shown in the figure below. In this way, a quarter in a bar is selected for inserting glass, for example, when making a window.

To grind small, round parts, you can make a device in which a drill will give a rotary motion to the workpiece. The easiest way to perform wood turning work is the one shown in the figure below.

Such a wood lathe can be made in minutes. To make it, you will need a wooden bar or board, a couple of corners, as well as a sharpened bolt.

A more "advanced" drawing of a lathe, which you can make from a drill with your own hands, is presented below.

If you do not have the opportunity to make such a device from metal, as shown in the drawing, then you can do without a pair of clampsattached to the workbench.

The first clamp with a clamp can be used to secure the machine to the workbench.

A small vice with a clamp clamped in it can be used as a clamp for drilling. With a second clamp, you need to clamp a homemade tailstock with a screw screwed into it to center and maintain the part. The end of the screw must be ground under the taper.

A block of the required thickness is pressed against the workbench as a handy.

It is also not difficult to design a homemade lathe. from wooden blocksas shown in the following figure.

For precision turning work with long and large parts, it is recommended to make a lathe from a metal profile (square).

In the manufacture of this design, it is necessary to accurately maintain the alignment of the headstock and tailstock. The unit can be secured to the headstock with a pair of clamps.

The tailstock must be movable so that parts of different lengths can be processed.

The handguard should also be movable and move both along the bed and across it, so that you can move it closer to the workpiece to reduce the leverage. If the lever is large, the tool can pull the tool out of the hand and the part out of the chuck, which can lead to serious injury.

It is important that the support platform rotates, for example, when machining a part at an angle.

If you make such a machine, then it can be easily converted into a universal one. It is enough to clamp an emery or felt wheel in the chuck of the apparatus, and the structure turns into a grinding machine from a drill. In the same way, you can make a grinding unit from it.

A simpler model of a universal machine is easy to make from a regular planed board. To do this, you need to cut it into parts, and assemble the structure, as shown in the figure.

This is how the bed looks if you remove the table.

The thickness of the board used in the construction is 2 cm. The length of the product is 50 cm. The width of the device is 20 cm.

The height of the racks is 9 and 14 cm. The height can be different and depends on what diameter the grinding wheel will be used. The whole structure is twisted with self-tapping screws. It is recommended to coat the joints of parts with glue before assembly.

On top of the racks are fixed 2 clamps, one of which is cut and unbent. A cut was used as a soft pad polyethylene tubenailed with carnations.

On the bed, it is necessary to make a small cut (groove) and expand it from the bottom so that the head of the tie bolt does not interfere.

Next, you should twist 2 boards measuring 20 X 27 cm with a bar between them, the thickness of which is 4 cm (this way you will get a table). The bar is needed so that the hand can freely pass between the planes while screwing the table to the bed.

A groove is also cut in one plank to secure the table to the base. After that, the table can be attached using the screw and washer.

Thanks to the grooves, the table can be moved to the required distance to the chuck. If the table is rotated, it will be possible to move it across the machine. The length of the groove determines the distance that the table can be moved.

After attaching the drilling machine, you will receive a universal fixture.

Now, if you clamp the drill into the chuck grinding wheel - you will receive a grinding unit. The presence of a reverse in the unit during grinding is desirable, but not necessary.

If you install abrasive disc (for metal) from the grinder, then it becomes possible to cut metal rods. When cutting metal, be sure to wear safety glasses. You can also install a gear cutter and cut thin plastic with it.

When installing abrasive wheel - it turns out a sharpener.

Such a unit can be used for turning knives, drills, planer knives, as well as for sharpening tools for a wood lathe.

If you fix the guides on the table, and install a drill in the chuck, you get an additive machine.

Thus, the drill, thanks to the chuck, is the basis for creating machines for different purposes. Such an increase in the functionality of a conventional drill will be very useful for a home craftsman, who has various technological operations at his disposal.

Round-shaped wood and copper crafts are good for making on a small home lathe. What do a lathe and a drill have in common? For an ordinary person far from production, nothing. But for the modern Kulibin, this is a real Klondike of ideas. A person with imagination and skillful hands can easily make his home lathe from a drill.

Purchased or homemade lathe - which is better?

The cost of small factory-made lathes makes one think about an alternative solution to this problem. A self-assembled lathe can be much cheaper. To make your venture a reality, the most expensive thing you need to buy is a drill or a hammer drill that has the function of a drill. Consider the option of making a lathe from a private home business. The simplicity of making such a necessary and useful equipment is amazing. The simplest lathe can be made in one day "on the knee". In the manufacture of the most unpretentious lathe, you will need wooden blocks, plywood, tin, good glue and other materials.

Materials for making a lathe

Before thinking about how to make a lathe, you need to calculate, but will not the cost of the necessary materials turn out to be more than the cost of the factory device? To do this, it is better to look through a list of all the necessary materials and equipment, determine what of this is available and calculate how much you need to spend on the missing items.

A set for a lathe from a drill looks like this:

• electric drill;
• sturdy table or workbench;
• at least three clamps;
• self-tapping screws;
• bolts, screws and nuts;
• files;
• incisors;
• sandpaper.

But if your home business has grown and requires high productivity and precision in the manufacture of steel parts, then you need to fork out and get a commercial lathe with a powerful electric motor, rigid bed and tooling installed on it.

What does a lathe consist of?

Any lathe has the following main components in its design:

1. Lathe bed. Basis in machine tool construction.
2. A headstock with a power unit, in this case a drill.
3. Tailstock. Its location along the axis must correspond to the axis of the headstock. Otherwise, a marriage will go out during work.
4. A stop is required to install the cutting tool. Its location should be as close as possible to the workpiece set for processing. It is advisable to make a support table that will allow you to safely work on a homemade lathe from a drill.
5. The machine bed defines the basic arrangement of the lathe components and ensures the reliability of the entire unit. A powerful bed, equipped with reliable legs with correctly installed and coaxial nodes, is a full-fledged lathe. The small bed can be installed on a massive table or workbench. The assembled lathe from a drill on this type of bed is easy to carry and transport.
6. The purchased factory equipment will facilitate the work on a lathe from a drill.

It should be noted that the processing of materials on the resulting device will be limited. On such a home-made device, you can process wood, copper, aluminum and its alloys, that is, any soft materials. On a do-it-yourself lathe, a steel part cannot be turned from a drill.

Work process

A piece of thick plywood is a good choice for the bed. It has a flat surface, which will help in the coaxial installation of the headstock and tailstock. The drill can be secured using any available method. The main condition is that it must be rigidly mounted. In our case, consider an example using clamps.

Let's prepare the main element of the power traction. For the convenience of assembling a homemade lathe from a drill, we will prepare a clamping device for fixing the drill. Let's take a metal clamp, after altering it a little.

It is necessary to fix the clamp, which will further clamp our drill. Let's fix it to the bed. Clamp, fixed on the clamp, clamp the drill. Thus, a rigidly fixed headstock with a power unit turned out.

Lathe caliper

In a similar way, we will make the tailstock of a lathe from a drill. It is necessary to install the tailstock using a second clamp, be sure to be in the same axis with the front. For ease of operation, a bearing with a pressed-in axle sharpened under a cone is perfect for a tailstock. A chuck can also be used as a fastening element for the part.

We need the third clamp for the support table. This is the so-called caliper by professional turners.

For the convenience of moving the caliper along the axis of the part, it is desirable to make a rigid groove on the base of the bed. The manufacturing method is as follows:

1. Two straight strips are cut out of plywood along the length of the lathe.
2. Then they are rigidly attached to the bed.
3. A support base is inserted between them, ensuring its reliable movement along the axis.

Such a simple and reliable fixture will ensure that parts are easy to handle.

The ideal caliper for a lathe from a drill is when the caliper has the ability to move both along the axis of the lathe and across it. With the help of it, the turner can freely hold the cutter during processing. The caliper is brought close to the part, which ensures complete safety in work. If the stop is far from the workpiece, the turning tool can be pulled out of the hand.

The tool required for processing a part

You can machine a part fixed in a lathe with cutters. This is especially true for those parts that consist of various alloys. The cutter is securely attached to the caliper, which allows you to grind copper, brass and other soft metals. As a cutter for processing a wooden workpiece, a sharpened locksmith file - a rasp is suitable. Cope with the work and the file. A well and properly sharpened car spring trim also works great as a cutter.

How to fix a large diameter workpiece to the machine?

To fasten workpieces of large diameter on a lathe, you will have to stock up on a plan with a washer, which is attached to the chuck of an electric drill. Its use makes it possible to grind parts of large diameters.

On a home-made machine, you can carve balusters for the stairs, make yourself and at your discretion wooden dishes. The machine is perfect for making round candlesticks, and indeed any round wooden product and products from soft types of metals.

How to replicate wooden products from blanks?

To replicate balusters to a staircase under construction, for example, you can use a copier. What is a copier and how to work with it? It's ridiculously simple. The necessary product for the stairs is being made. An additional device is made to a compact wood lathe from a drill, on which a baluster made in exact dimensions is attached. The second copy is made according to the existing dimensions.

Many have seen the craftsmen work on duplicate keys. The "native" key is inserted into the copier, and all protuberances on the workpiece duplicate its protuberances. There is no need for constant measurement of the part. The machined part turns out to be an exact copy of the original. The principle and approach are the same.

Drawings of a lathe from a drill

By supplementing a homemade lathe with just a few details, you can significantly expand the functions of such equipment. With it, you can paint a part or turn a twisted mesh along the entire length of the workpiece. You can use the unique capabilities of a drill not only in a lathe. It is possible to make on the same bed and which will work no worse than the factory one. The drill diameter depends on the chuck in the drill. To increase the diameter, adapters or drills with shanks suitable for the chuck will help. Making a milling machine, having learned and understood the capabilities of the drill, will not be difficult.

Electricians will appreciate the use of a homemade lathe when winding transformer windings at home.

In conclusion, we can state: a seemingly simple power tool, if used correctly and correctly, can expand its capabilities and become an indispensable equipment in home production. The main thing is to be patient before trying and learning how to make a lathe.