All kinds of "punk". Who are punks? Punks as a subculture What does punk look like?

Punk or punks (English "punk") - a youth direction in culture that emerged in the late 60s - early 70s in Great Britain; style - punk is inherently associated with the name.

The word "punk" in English before the emergence of the actual punk movement itself was used as a curse word, which meant about the same as "scum". In other cases, it could be used as a common obscene expression.

In American jargon, the word "punk" was used to refer to prisoners of six or simply to people associated with criminal activity. Also, the word "punk" could mean "waste", "rot", "dirt".

The appearance and attributes of punks:

The origins of punk as a style date back to the 1960s, when youth rock and roll bands emerged under the influence of the Beatles and the Rolling Stones. Despite the fact that hippies had a strong influence on world culture, in the 70s they were already a little fed up. The youth wanted something new and sharp. Instead of the peaceful hippie slogan "Love and Peace", the punks preferred the formula "Sex and Violence", and the main words of the punk style were "anarchy", "riot" and "trash heap".

Initially, the punk style emerged as a direction in music thanks to the American group "Ramones". The punk rock genre implied not so much skill as the desire to play in combination with a deliberately primitive sound, provocatively vulgar behavior on stage and diving into the audience.

Malcolm McLaren, a British musician and producer, became the ideologist of popularizing the punk style in fashion. The style began in 1975 in London, when McLaren, in connection with new provocative anarchist trends that came from America, decided to change the fashionable direction of his, opened in 1971 together with Vivienne Westwood. So the boutique, which was quite popular, changed its name “Let it Rock” to the daring “Sex”. The new store was aimed at marginalized youth. And here one cannot remain silent about Vivienne Westwood, who is considered the creator of the "punk" trend in fashion.

Not all modern punks know that their favorite mohawks, ripped jeans and other style attributes were invented by Vivienne Westwood. Now she is one of the most famous designers in the world, but at that time this could not be imagined. Married early only to escape from a poor and impoverished family, Vivienne Westwood dropped out of art school. True, she still received a pedagogical education and even managed to work as a teacher. However, a calm and measured life lasted only three years, until Westwood divorced her husband and met McLaren. Together they became actively involved in the business of the store.

Without any special education or experience in tailoring, she was the first to invent completely crazy clothes - ripped and t-shirts with defiant lettering, which were composed by McLaren.

"I am not a terrorist, do not arrest me", "Be reasonable - demand the impossible!", "Empty generation" or the fascist slogan "We are not afraid of ruins!"

- such inscriptions adorned T-shirts torn from all sides.

Vivienne was the first to make herself a hedgehog from bleached hair hairstyle in the style of punk around the world. She was also the first to mock the T-shirt, ripping off its sleeves, ripping the shoulder seams and tying the flaps in a knot at the back. Her most scandalous work is a T-shirt with a portrait of Queen Elizabeth II with a safety pin in her lip, which produced the effect of a bomb. Every model that Westwood created called for shaking a morally established society. To do this, in their joint store with McLaren, there was everything - with a swastika on the sleeves, T-shirts and T-shirts with obscene inscriptions, torn tights, everything in leather jackets with rivets and spikes, brutal belts and, of course, in incredible quantities of safety pins that fastened the ragged rags clothes. It's not hard to imagine how wildly popular the Sex boutique was in London. It was a real Mecca of punks, which gladly opened doors for everyone.

In 1974, Malcolm McLaren becomes the manager of the group, for which he himself invented the scandalous name "Sex Pistols". They played about as professionally as Vivienne Westwood did, but this did not prevent them from becoming scandalous idols of the new generation and helping to popularize the punk style.

For all its vulgarity and marginality, the punk style captured the minds so much that even the Italian version of "" in 1976 devoted several pages to punk anti-fashion. In 1977, Zandra Rhodes (dubbed "the punk princess") presented her collection called "Concept Chic", which featured smart satins with rips and safety pins. The fashion for punk style has led many presenters to use it commercially. They began to produce special collections that were of high quality (as opposed to the homemade products of the punks themselves) and were snapped up, bringing high profits.

After the Sex Pistols disbanded, Vivienne Westwood left McLaren and continued to work on her own. She became interested in creating collections in a historical style, but, of course, not without a punk aesthetic. In the early 80s, her models were not covered with paint, their hair was covered with mud and burlap hats.

Nowadays, punk style clothing is rare. Quite often you can hear that Italian and French masters create collections under the influence of the "punk" style, but this is rather post-punk, where few elements remain from the punk style.

Introduction

1 Who are they Punks?

2 Etymology of the word Punk.

2.1 The word "Punk" in dictionaries referring to people

2.2 The word "punk" related to music

3 Prerequisites for the appearance of Punk

3.1 English unemployment

3.2 DIY - Do it yourself

4 History of the Punk subculture

5 Punk clothes and hairstyle

6 Punk Today

6.1 Punk as seen by society

6.2 What is punk now

Conclusion

Literature

application

What I really like about punk - whoever

Whatever I write about him - it's all wrong!

Anscombe and Blair

INTRODUCTION

Why did I take this topic?
I took this topic because it is pretty close to me. After all, punks are mostly young people. And I myself belong to this category. I will try to explain the essence of Punks, their concepts, the goals they pursue, their aspirations, ideology, etc.
The Punk subculture refers to the general movement of informals, the types of which exist in a great variety (punks, metalheads, hippies, systemists, rappers, etc.), these types usually make up a fairly large part of the youth.
In addition, I think that this topic of "Punks" is very relevant these days, it has always been relevant, as punks have always stood out among other informals. Punk associations are, in fact, a whole system, this is a rather peculiar social formation. It cannot be called a group, but rather a social environment, social circle, conglomerate of groups or even their hierarchy. Where there is a clear division into "friends" and "aliens". Simply put, this is a state within a state that requires a very deep study.
My goal is to convey to people all the information I know about Punks. I am absolutely sure that knowledge about this particular culture of young people is very scarce and society considers Pankov to be garbage, dirty, not washed with terrible hairstyles - mohawks on their heads. This happened precisely because people's minds were poisoned by disinformation from newspapers and magazines. And it is my duty to correct this lack of information.

PART 1

WHO ARE THEY ARE PUNKS?

Punk is an extremely complex cultural phenomenon, the main task of which was initially to destroy all kinds of stereotypes and frameworks. It is not just a musical style - punk-rock, but a certain form of civilization, which implies a system of values, a type of behavior, an aesthetic program, like most other youth subcultures (metalheads, rappers, etc.) - metal, benchmarks - rap), developing their ideological platform and way of life. Punk culture was constituted as a protest-type movement, with a pronounced orientation against the dominant culture, against a mass surrogate. Thus, Punk was and is a counterculture.

"I am absolutely convinced that Punk can be a force for social awakening, and possibly change, making concrete changes in the lives of many young people. Music and lyrics make you think, choose and, above all, act," says Felix Havok , a leader of the contemporary American Punk / hardcore movement. With his words, some may not agree, but it is necessary to listen and appreciate the music that punks create. I am absolutely sure that you will agree with the above belief after listening to this music.

PART 2

Etymology of punk

The word "punk" in dictionaries referring to people

Initially, it had negative connotations. In the Concise Oxford English Dictionary, "punk" means:

- outdated. street girl (1596);

- Amer. rotten wood or wood mold, used dry to light fires; tinder, rotten (1707) 16.

In the English-Russian dictionary of Mueller V.K. (M., 2000) the word "punk" is given the following Russian meanings:

- a worthless person;

- smth. unnecessary, useless, nonsense;

-amer. Punk, "bastard", punks;

-amer. inexperienced youth, simpleton;

The word "punk" referring to music

As for music, this term was first applied to the so-called "garage rock" (1964-1967) - a musical youth movement in the United States, inspired by such British groups as the "Beatles" and "Rolling Stones" (for example, the groups "Sonics", "Seeds", etc.). Later he was attached to another musical direction that appeared in New York in 1973-74 ("Ramones", "Television", "New York Dolls", "Patty Smith Group", etc.). And finally, this name was given to the rebellious English groups of 1976-1978. (the most famous - "Sex Pistols", "Clash", "Damned", "Alternative TV", "X - Ray Spex") journalists who thought they had discovered key points of similarity between these musicians and New Yorkers.

Thus, initially the word "Punk" in the meaning of "rot" was used as a metaphor for American bands that touched on forbidden topics in their songs and behaved as obscene as possible. So, Lou Reed, the leader of the legendary New York group "Velvet Underground" during the heyday of hippie culture (1966-1968) and slogans like "non-resistance to evil by violence" sang about sexual perversion, growing drug use, social alienation, brutality of society, complete hopelessness and future frustration among young people. The vocalist of The Stooges, a representative of the New York Punk of the first half of the 1970s, Iggy Pop (real name - James Jewel Osterberg) raged and raged on stage: he could easily take off his pants on stage during a concert or spit in the audience by typing more saliva in the mouth.

Part 3

BACKGROUND OF THE APPEARANCE OF PUNK.

English unemployment

In the mid-1970s, America did not have the conditions that provoked the counterculture of the 1960s ("new left", hippies, beatniks, yippies17, etc.). In the UK, the 1970s is the time of the greatest youth unemployment, this was only before the war. The global energy crisis, which led to economic difficulties, further worsened the already far from prosperity position of young people in Great Britain. This contributed to the whipping up of an atmosphere of social despair and spiritual hopelessness, which, in turn, led to the spread among young people of moods of despair and doom, which could not find expression in the pacifist, non-aggressive hippie subculture. It was this moment, according to Ted Polimus, that became a unifying for the punk subculture, despite its social heterogeneity: “Punks were not (as is commonly believed) entirely working-class slum dwellers. Some were, but most were middle-class guys. and the teenagers of the wealthy suburban areas, all united by a hatred of hippies, "sluggish, lazy and boring."

DIY- Do it yourself

Another important prerequisite for the emergence of punk was the change in the status of rock, which by the mid-1970s had turned from the music of rebellious children to "music for parents". In other words, rock for the most part lost its countercultural qualities and became a product of mass culture. Rock brought huge profits to producers, performers, music corporations. Success and wealth have isolated rock bands from the common youth. Now these were the inaccessible idols "entertainers" who came to concerts in luxury limousines under police protection.

The punks have abruptly broken with this tradition. Basically, punk discs were made quickly and cheaply, in small recording studios. Punk bands did not sign contracts with major labels (big record companies) were distributed by independent companies. Punk opposed commercial music in two ways: firstly, it boycotted the big record corporations, and secondly, it changed the process of making music, proclaiming "anyone can do it!" "Professionalism was considered an external attribute of commercial rock ... The words" star "and" fame "were cursed (anathema) for punks." In other words, the genuine Punk band that crossed the line and became famous instantly lost their fans. This position began to form a whole ideological and aesthetic program and lifestyle, based on the DIY principle (abbreviated from the English "Do It Yourself"). Its essence lies in the establishment of an autonomous existence, as independent as possible from commercial and government structures. Thus, punk was a new round of counterculture, opposing itself to the mainstream and mass culture, whose products by the mid-1970s were the protest phenomena of the 1960s.

However, in just a few months, the media managed to reduce the punk style to a stereotype. "Media - Punk" was something like a virus spread by every newspaper, magazine and television program in a hurry to warn the world about the "threat" of punk. However, the countercultural core of punk was so strong that the movement continued to develop, retaining its own " anti-systemic "essence. In the 1970s," real "punk never became a product of mass culture, because it did well without commercial structures, relying on the DIY principle.

Part 4

HISTORY OF PUNK SUBCULTURE

It is the first wave of punk in Great Britain (1976-1978) that is considered the punk era and is considered by most researchers. In my opinion, two main trends can be distinguished in it. First, there was a "core" of punk - an environment in which the proclaimed slogans were the center of worldview and social action. This environment can be confidently attributed to the phenomenon of counterculture, to protest education. On the other hand, the idea of \u200b\u200bpunk is used, pseudo-punks appear, using the language of the subculture, its style, but ignoring its ideological content. The purpose of such cultural entities is to make money and vulgarize the concepts of Punk culture. In this case, they can be defined as phenomena of mass culture (goods).

The second trend in the punk subculture emerged at the turn of the 1970s and 1980s. Punk is becoming more and more politicized. Punk bands play concerts in defense of animal rights, against fascism. Within the subculture, a new youth movement appears - hardcore. Like other movements, it is formed around a musical style - harsh, fast, aggressive and, as a rule, politicized music, where the vocalist often shouts out lyrics instead of singing. Hardcore and punk today constitute a single DIY culture (referred to as punk / hardcore) and mark the logical transition of the punk movement in the West from complete nihilism to positivism.

Unlike English punk, which emerged as a natural reaction to the socio-economic crisis in the West, punk in the USSR appears as a protest against totalitarian thinking. Of course, like many other phenomena of the "Soviet underground", he experienced Western influence, although direct borrowing in the 1980s was virtually impossible.

Punk was one of the few musical movements that came to the Soviet Union with minimal delay. In 1976, punk-rock appeared in England, and already in 1977 in Leningrad, Moscow, Siberia, young people interested in Western music bought records of "Sex Pistols", "Clash" and other British punk-groups from blacksmiths, caught musical programs on Voice of America, BBC with Seva Novgorodtsev, they read Soviet magazines and newspapers, which did not hesitate to respond to the emergence of a new youth movement as "an outgrowth on the rotting body of bourgeois culture."

If rock music in the USSR was underground, then punk was ": underground underground". It was already a counterculture by virtue of its forbiddenness and opposed the System, bringing new values, and not rebellion and protest like the English punks.

As Alexander Didurov said: “too deep in the thickness of folk life lay, pulsed, the root of this tradition (of Russian song culture.) and adolescence. These "forces" have formed into the power with which the asphalt and paving stones of our political and economic centers, the fountain of punk rock, have broken through. "

And if at the early stage of the existence of punk the idea of \u200b\u200bself-development was behind all this, then when punk began to "descend into the masses", it became democratized, and its modification took place. Punk has turned into a colorful label and found a "fertile ground" for its existence in the face of such a phenomenon as "gopnism".

Gopnism- This is a social phenomenon of domestic reality, an unsettled term, which in 1980 was synonymous with the word "Lyuber", "patriotic youth movement", which set itself the goal of fighting informals, rockers. Gopniks are petty hooligans, vocational schools or beggar teenagers who have just graduated from school and do not know where to put themselves, therefore, drinking in the yard with friends who are just as unfit and useless to anyone (neither the state nor even their own parents).

Punk, as I said, came to Russia with minimal delay. The first punks appeared in cities such as Moscow and St. Petersburg, but in parallel with punks from central cities, Gopniks also appeared in provinces and poverty-stricken cities. Above, I gave an official definition of this social phenomenon, which only partly reflected the truth. In fact, young people became Gopniks, one might say, of hungry cities. She gathered in groups, got on electric trains, trains, went to Moscow and St. Petersburg, and there she arranged beatings of Panks, at the same time doing petty hooliganism. These cities were the targets of the Gopniks for one simple reason. In the days of the USSR and even now, in our time, they (Moscow and St. Petersburg) lived a different life. The choice of food products, industrial goods, the level of wages that existed in the capitals was several times higher than in any other cities. The youth of “any other cities” was already very affected by this. And therefore the appearance of the Punks, who set themselves the Iroquois and swung at the system of socialist values, proclaiming themselves a counterculture, was the last straw that overflowed the cup of patience. Kazan and Nizhne Novgorod were considered especially dangerous groups of the Gopniks. But despite this, Punk developed more and more.

The Soviet punk culture of the 1980s, initially focusing on the Western movement, organically rethought it, intertwined with national roots. As a result, absolutely original phenomena arose, generated primarily not by imitation, but by the desire to express oneself and somehow oppose oneself to officialdom. Punk was not so much a musical trend as a social and intellectual one. In the USSR, punk was a counterculture by virtue of its forbiddenness, so it opposed the System, even if there was no direct political protest in Punk songs. Since 1987, totalitarian mechanisms have begun to actively disintegrate, and rock music, in my opinion, has made its contribution to this process, albeit a small one, being the bearer of other cultural values. This is the main contradiction of domestic punk: having destroyed the System, he found himself in a difficult situation - what to fight against ("when everything is possible")? Following this, punk loses its counterculture status with the elimination of prohibition, and the development of modern Western forms of confrontation in Russia is hampered by the difficult socio-economic and political situation. The existence of the punk movement, like other forms of counterculture in the USSR in the form in which they functioned before the perestroika era, lost its meaning at the turn of the 1980s and 90s.

In the 1990s, in Russia, there is a transition from a totalitarian regime to a completely different type of civilization, which can contain all the opposing (or trying to resist) cultural phenomena. Western values \u200b\u200band the nature of culture (including mass culture) are beginning to actively take root on Russian soil. Since the late 1980s, Melodiya's monopoly on the release of gramophone records has collapsed, home-grown recording companies have begun to form, and diversified (including music) radio stations are opening. In 1996, such a form of musical mass culture as MUZ TV appeared, in 1998 - MTV. Thus, if in the 1980s rock culture (and even more so punk) was an "elite" art - in the sense that it was accessible only to a few throughout a multimillion country (due to its prohibition), then in the 1990s, commercialization of rock music takes place and it begins to be actively replicated, becoming a typical product of mass culture. Music is made for money and is imposed by advertising and various forms of music media. Thus, in a market economy, musical composition becomes a product, a commodity that sometimes brings enormous profits.

Here I would like to note the last, in my opinion, distinctive phenomenon in domestic punk - "coffin mania" (the popularity of the Omsk group "Civil Defense"). The peak of this phenomenon falls on 1992-1996, when the main idols of Russian "punks" were the groups "Civil Defense" and the British "Sex Pistols" and "The Exploited". The social aspect of "coffin mania" was manifested in the fact that teenagers all over Russia listened to the soloist of the Civil Defense "Yegorushka" and absorbed his ideas. This certainly does not apply to all fans of this punk band, but most of them perceived punk as something spiritual (which set it apart from all other music). They didn't know exactly what punk was. Due to the lack of information, they had nothing to focus on and they created their own image based on the ideas they had learned. The basic principle (in their language) was - "I'm a punk, so I don't care!" And not in the sense of indifference to everything, but in the sense of freedom, spiritual and "situational". “We could do whatever we wanted,” recalls my Internet acquaintance Nadya, a student at Moscow State University, about her “punk” life in a village near Moscow in 1994-95. “We felt that we were not like everyone else, we wanted to be not like everyone else. " "Civil defense" was for them "a small life saver" and a source of new values; it was from "Citizen" that they absorbed the ideas of destroying the System.

Another manifestation of "coffin mania" found expression in music. Under the influence of "Gr.Ob." a whole generation of punk bands emerges all over Russia. The ideas of "Siberian punk" were creatively refracted in their songs. They used the main themes of Yegor Letov's texts:

- suicide:

"The coffin is my home, the Earth is my bed, Death is my joy, Life is my pain. It hurts!" (group "Pathology")

- criticism of society:

"All the best for the children! All the holy places for the people!"

Harmonious people go to work.

Harmonious uncles, harmonious aunts,

Everything outside is holy, but inside you are rotting! "

("Rising Resistance" group)

Since the mid-1990s, the Russian punk scene has begun to orient itself towards the corresponding Western ideals, namely "Green Day" and other California pop-punk bands. (In the face of such groups as, for example, Moscow "Cockroaches!" and St. Petersburg "King and the Clown").

In the Russian punk-rock of the 1990s, there are almost no ideas (whereas in the West, punk is primarily ideological music), and those that existed are being leveled, i.e. conform to well-known dogmas. Most of the groups repeat the same stereotypes - "rip off" from the same Western pattern.

Part 5

PUNK HAIRSTYLES AND CLOTHES

Iroquois

Such a hairstyle as a mohawk appeared a long time ago. Even the ancient Indians used it for some kind of rituals to scare other Indians.

In the world of punk rock, as far as I know, the Mohawk first began to wear

lead singer of Exploited. In the early 80s, along with the peak of the band's popularity, the Iroquois were also very popular. It is enough to look at the live recordings of punk bands of those times and it becomes clear that this is so. From the beginning to the mid-80s, the Iroquois wore Punk groups, and young people adopted them and also began to "set" them for themselves. Now their popularity has faded. Mohawks are worn only by the most avid punk rockers. Consider the different types of mohawks:

Classical

I consider the most beautiful of them all, as well as the classic punk style of clothing. In addition to the already mentioned lead singer Exploited, members of the Rancid group wear such a mohawk, in our country this type of Iroquois is worn by a rather small number of performers, of which such performers as "Ace" and "Purgen" stand out. The essence of this hairstyle is almost completely shaved, except for a narrow strip along the head.

This strip should comprise a very long strand of hair vertically set in such ways as paraffin or the new trend of Punk culture: Laundry soap + Zhigulevskoe beer. Eyebrows are also completely shaved, but this is not necessary

Spiked

Such mohawks were worn by members of the Rancid group. They are quite long and difficult to install. They are put only with paraffin, and not in any other way. In the west, artificial mohawks are sold, such as classic ones, which are glued to the shaved head.

Mohican

It looks like the same thorns as in the spiked mohawk, but not from the forehead to the back of the head, but all over the head. This is the hairstyle worn by vocalist GBH. Now she is very fashionable, since it is not at all necessary for her to grow long hair, the hair should be medium for convenience, it is very convenient to put it on and does not pose any particular difficulties

Trash heap

This hairstyle needs no introduction. It's very easy to do. To do this, you just need to put a trash heap on your head, in other words, ruffle your hair.

More than 30 years have passed since the birth of the Pank culture, but the style of their clothing has practically not changed. The clothing style of this subculture cannot be described, it boils down to the complete opposite of normal clothing. That is, whatever the fashion and whatever the fashion for the Punks is, there will never be a certain style. One thing is for sure, all clothes will be matched without taste, and possibly under any color of dark tones. If there is a jacket, then on a naked torso, if there are trousers, then tucked into boots. Shoes, as well as in other informal organizations, are special, the main type of footwear worn by Punks is branded footwear from such companies as Grinders, Camelot and others. Its feature is the presence in most of the models of the so-called iron "glass", which are steel plates that are placed in the toes of the boots and make them strong. They are very well used for breaking bottles, seemingly stupid but sometimes fun.

Some of which disappear without a trace, while others leave a deep mark in the history of teenage culture. Today we will talk about one of these phenomena, it is Punks, which means you can find out a little below.
Our resource site is ready to help you decipher many different youth concepts and expressions, so do not forget to bookmark us.
However, before continuing, I would like to show you some rather interesting news on the subject of subcultures. For example, what does Wonabi mean, what is ZEF, how to understand the word Grunge, who are called Alternatives, etc.
So let's continue what does punk mean? This term was borrowed from the English language "punk", and is translated as rotten; something unnecessary or worthless; jerk, inexperienced youth, scum.

Punk- a culture popular with young people, especially in the late 1970s, characterized by an oppositional attitude towards power, expressed by shocking behavior, clothing, strange hairstyles, and fast, harsh music

Punk rocker is a person who wears punk clothes and loves punk music

Punk is made up of many smaller subcultures including "anarcho-punk", "crust punk" and "horror punk", which feature unique articulations of punk culture. Several youth cultures split from punk to become their own, such as the goths, " psychobilly"and emo.

Early history

In the late 1960s, The Stooges and the MC5 began playing a stripped-down, louder and more aggressive form of rock and roll ( sometimes called "pre-punk" or "protopunk") in response to the commercialization of the hippie counterculture. Bands like the Ramones, Television and Talking Heads were heavily influenced by this style and developed it further. These New York bands started frequent punk clubs and formed the first punk communities.

During the same period, similar groups were created in other places, for example The Modern Lover] in Boston; Electric Eels, Rocket from the Tombs, and The Dead SEX dildos in Ohio; The Saints in Brisbane, Australia, and The Stranglers and the Sex Pistols in London... On July 4, 1976, The Ramones and The Stranglers played at The Roundhouse in London. This show is often referred to as the event that started the punk movement in the capital of England. By the end of 1976, many fans Sex Pistols created their own groups, including The Clash, Siouxsie & the Banshees, The Adverts, Generation SEXXX, The Slits and X-Ray Sex... Other British bands that appeared included The Damned, The Jam, The Vibrators, Buzzcocks and London.

Punk rock

Musicis the most important aspect of punk. Punk music is called punk rock, sometimes shortened to punk. It is a distinct style of the rock music genre, although punk musicians sometimes incorporate elements from other genres. Punk subcultures often distinguish themselves by having a unique style of punk rock, although not every style of punk rock has its own associated subculture. Most punk music includes simple arrangements, short songs and lyrics that support the values \u200b\u200bof punk. Punk rock is usually played in groups as opposed to solo artists.

Punk fashion

Punks seek to disrupt traditional fashion thinking with highly theatrical use of clothing, hairstyles, cosmetics, jewelry and body modification. clothingpunk adapts existing objects to the aesthetic effect: specially torn clothes are held together with metal studs, rivets; wrapped with ribbon, painted with a marker or painted with paint; the black lining can become a dress, shirt or skirt. Leather, rubber and vinyl clothing is also common, perhaps due to its association with transgressive sexual practices such as bondage and sadomasochism. Some punks wear tight jeans, brothel creeper boots, tees with risky images, and possibly leather motorcycle jackets and Converse sneakers.

Some punks create spiky hairstyles, mohawks or other incredible shapes, and paint them in bright, unnatural shades. Punks will use pins and razor blades as jewelry. Punks tend to show their love for the band or punk culture with badges or patches that adorn their jackets and other garments. They sometimes flaunt taboo symbols such as the Iron Cross. Early punks sometimes wore the Nazi swastika to shock the public, but more modern punks have anti-racist views and are more likely to wear the crossed out swastika symbol.

The outer aesthetics of punks

Aestheticspunks are determined by the type of art they enjoy. Usually they are attracted by the underground, minimal, iconoclasm and satirist. Punk art adorns album covers, concert flyers and punk zines (punk magazines). Usually simple images with clear messages, punk drawings are often associated with political issues such as social injustice and economic inequality. The use of images of suffering to shock and create empathy in the viewer is common. Alternatively, punk art may contain images of selfishness, stupidity, or apathy to arouse contempt in the viewer.

A subculture is a group of people who have values, beliefs and behaviors that run counter to the consumer society.

Most of the early work was in black and white because it was distributed in themed magazines printed in printers. Punk art also uses the studio's mass production aesthetic. Factory andy warhol... Punk had a hand in the revival of stencil art, led by Crassus. Situationists also influenced the look of punk art, especially Sex Pistols... Collage is often used in punk art, of which art is an example Crassus, Jamie Reid and Winston Smith. John Holmstrom was a punk cartoonist who created work for Ramones and Punk Magazine... The "Stuckism" art movement formed in punk, and they called their first major show " The Stuckists Punk Victorian"which was shown at the Walker Art Gallery at the 2004 Liverpool Biennale. Charles Thomson, co-founder of the group, described punks as" big break"In its form of art.

Punk dancing

A variety of dances are popular in the punk subculture. They are usually performed at punk shows. These dances often seem chaotic or even violent. The punk subculture, and its immediate predecessors, have been the origin of many of these dance styles since the 1970s. " Moshing"and" pogo"are the types of dance most closely associated with punk. Stage diving (jumping into the crowd from the stage) and crowd surfing (riding in the hands of the audience) were originally associated with protopank groups such as The stoogesbut were picked up at concerts by punk, metal and rock bands. Ska punk ( a transitional musical style that combines elements of ska and punk rock) contributed to the "skanking" dance style. Punk concerts are more like petty riots and brawls than rock concerts. Hardcore is a later development based on all of these styles.

Punk literature

Punk has created a significant amount of poetry and prose. Punk has its own underground press in the form of punk magazines, featuring news, gossip, cultural criticism and interviews. Some magazines have the form " perzines"This is a kind of magazine; the prefix" per "means" personal. "Although most magazines can be considered personal because they are the work of one person, this term describes magazines that deal with their own personal experiences, opinions and observations. This genre is becoming better known in the zine community, and is probably the most popular format for zines (magazines) today.

Serious punk magazines include "Maximum RocknRoll", "Punk Planet" and "Cometbus"... Many novels, biographies, autobiographies and comics have been written about punk. Love and rockets is a great story-driven comic featuring the Los Angeles punk community.

Jim Carroll and Patti Smith are two examples of punk poets. To the group "Medway Poets" included punk musician Billy Childish, who had a strong influence on Tracy Emin. Jim Carroll's autobiographical works are arguably the first punk literature. Punk has inspired the cyberpunk and steampunk genres.

Punk movies

To date, there have been many punk movies, punk rock videos and punk aesthetes' videos that are common to some bands. The use of still frames is typical of punk video. Traffic " No wave cinema"owes a lot to the punk aesthetic. Derek Jarman and Don Lights were both punk filmmakers.

Life style

Members of the punk subculture are usually called punks, punk rockers, or less commonly, punkers or " punx". Not everyone who plays in the punk subculture is identified as punk. There are many sub-genres of this style that only partly adhere to the main line. These people use several different terms to distinguish themselves from the tru-punks, but usually they use the word "punk" as a suffix.

As a rule, most people get into this subculture in high school. Although adolescents are the main age group in punkThere are also many adults who have a punk mentality but don't necessarily show it in their clothes. Some punks end up abandoning this subculture, after which they are considered sold out to the consumption system.

Punks are generally white, working-class or middle-class teenage men, although there are exceptions to the rule. Punk - with few exceptions, a male individual, although they are not overt sexists... Since their inception, punk girls have always played an important role in the punk subculture, but in quantitative terms, they are significantly inferior to the stronger sex. However, compared to some alternative cultures, mainstream punk is much closer to gender equality than other youth cultures.

Although the punk subculture is overwhelmingly anti-racist, it is made up mostly of white people, especially in Europe and North America, and some punk factions support views of white supremacy. The rest of the subculture usually adheres to these views. Many ethnic minorities have taken part in the development of the subculture and contributed to its development, for example, blacks, Hispanics and Asians. Documentary " Afro-punk»Examines the role of African Americans in the punk subculture.

Initially, most of the punks came from the working class, against the backdrop of the big cities, but since then everything has changed, so now many punks come from the middle class and live in their own homes. Punksoften receive minimum wages or are unemployed. A number of punks are homeless and some rely on food stamps or shoplifting to survive. Within the punk community, there is tension between those who refuse to work and those who have regular jobs.

Several notable figures in the punk community have died from drug overdose or suicide. Substance abuse is common among punks, with the exception of " straight edge factionThe original punk movement was heavily fueled by heroin, methamphetamine and alcohol. Methamphetamine and alcohol continue to be widely used in this subculture, although heroin use has declined since the early 1980s. The punk subculture has also been linked to inhalant abuse.

Punk Communities

Punks mostly interact with each other in their area, forming the local punk scene. In dozens of countries around the world, almost all large, medium and even small cities have such communities. Several local punk bands with close ties to each other form a regional association. The global punks community can sometimes be called " punk scene"(by the punk scene).

The punk scene, both local and regional, is concentrated in North America, Europe and Japan. There are also scenes in Central America, South America and Australia. More cosmopolitan cities in mainland Asia and the Middle East also have punks. In Africa, the punk scene is mostly limited South Africa... In general, punk scenes are most represented in metropolitan areas.

The way punks express their culture varies from community to community, and there can be huge differences between regional scenes. The global punk subculture contains many languages, citizens of dozens of states, representatives of different nationalities and ethnic groups. This wide variety of backgrounds ensures punks create a vast range of culture that reflects the unique conditions of their local or regional communities.

Local punk communities can have as many as a dozen snouts or thousands of members. Local hangouts usually have a small group of devotees. punkssurrounded by random periphery. On the outer edges of the punk community are posers and imitators who are not considered by core members to be part of the subculture at all.

The typical punk scene consists of several bands playing live music and recording albums; fans who visit these shows and buy these albums; the independent record labels that create these albums; magazines that document the activities of bands, fans and labels; visual artists who create artwork for these shows, albums, labels and magazines; and clothing designers who create clothing and accessories. A punk can perform any number of these functions on his local stage, and for one punkit's not uncommon to include all of them.

Some punk and punk bands, especially punk rock bands, are gaining prominence in their region, or punk subculture in general, and some continue to remain in the mainstream.

"Anarchy", "riot" and "dump"

Punks have replaced hippies. And if the slogan "Love and Peace" was proclaimed, then the punks preferred completely different slogans - "Sex and Violence". The word punk itself means "bad", "trashy", "scum".

The emergence of punks, like many youth subcultures, is directly related to new trends in music. At the origins of punks were two musical groups - the Ramones and the Sex Pistols (deliberately primitive sound, vulgar behavior on stage, "diving" into the crowd of spectators). These groups were the first to play punk rock music.

Great Britain is considered the birthplace of punk culture. In the early 1970s, it was in the UK that the scandalous Sex Pistols appeared. Her manager was none other than Malcolm McLaren. By the way, it is he who owns the group's name.

In 1971, Malcolm McLaren and co-opened a fashion boutique in London. The store was originally called "Let it Rock" and later the more scandalous "Sex". It was Vivienne Westwood, who did not have the slightest sewing education, and came up with all the basic elements of clothing and punk style.

Vivienne Westwood is the author of ripped trousers, mohawk hairstyles (she herself began to wear a hedgehog from bleached hair) and T-shirts with defiant inscriptions and prints. The lettering for T-shirts was designed by Malcolm McLaren. Among the inscriptions on T-shirts sold in the McLaren and Westwood shops were such inscriptions as: "I am not a terrorist, do not arrest me", "Be reasonable - demand the impossible!", "Empty generation", "We are not afraid of ruins!"

In the Vivienne Westwood store, you could buy a lot of different clothes and accessories, including outfits and accessories with rivets and spikes, various leather jackets, torn tights, and, of course, the same safety pins that fastened torn pieces of clothing.

The punk style, which originally existed exclusively as an anti-fashion, was already recognized by the fashion world in the second half of the 1970s, as is usually the case - in 1976, materials about fashion collections in the punk style appeared on the pages of the Italian Vogue.

Punk also has connections with the American "beat generation" of the 1940s and 1950s, at least through the American singer and poet Patti Smith, who is referred to as the "godmother of punk rock." Initially, in her work, she relied on the books of the "beat generation" writers.

Punk ideology

Punks are a rather diverse subculture, within which there are many trends. That being said, the views of punks themselves can also vary. So, according to their political convictions, representatives of punk culture can be very different. What they have in common is the desire for personal freedom and complete independence, non-conformism, the principles of "not being sold", "relying on oneself." Punks often adhere to nihilism, anarchism, socialism, anti-authoritarianism, anti-capitalism.

Here are some of the punk trends:

Anarcho punk (arises in Great Britain, as the name implies - the main desire for anarchism, correspondingly and attributes in clothes, for example, the use of anarchist symbols)

Folk punk (often have left-wing political views)

Glam punk (The focus is on creating trendy punk looks, hair and makeup)

Hardcore punk (“working class” clothing, sportswear (eg Adidas), short hair (sometimes dreadlocks), leather jackets, motorcycle boots, patronage)

Horror punk (black clothes, cadaveric spots, skeletons, ideological basis - horror films and science fiction)

Pop punk (the topic of relationships, politics, toilet humor, in clothes - leather jackets, Chuck Taylor All-Stars sneakers, baseball caps, ties)

Surf punk (attention to the environment, wearing short shorts and skate shoes).

Punk clothing and accessories

Clothing:
leather jackets-leather jackets with rivets, sometimes painted,
ripped or cut jeans, often with patches,
jeans pre-soaked in a solution of bleach (jeans with red stains are obtained),
plaid pants,
black t-shirts, torn t-shirts,
black fishnet tights,
shoes - massive army boots with thick soles with lacing (bastards), short heavy boots (banks) or sneakers.

Punk Jewelry & Accessories
Chains in various weaves and sizes
set of pins and badges,
spiked wristbands,
belt with a skull patch or with crosses,
anarchist signs,
earrings in ears, noses and so on,
apart from wearable jewelry, punks make tattoos with meaning and sometimes without much meaning.

Punk hairstyles

Multi-colored mohawks (a hairstyle borrowed from the culture of the Indians, this hairstyle is also called the Mohawk) - the brighter and more unnatural the color and dirtier the hair, the better; for protruding mohawks, varnish, gel or beer are used.

Mamochkin - hair is not shaved, the mohawk is placed directly, with ordinary varnish.

Classic - a strip of hair of average length about 15 cm and a width of 5-7 cm, extending evenly from the forehead to the back of the head, all other hairs shaved off.

Spiked - equal tufts of hair are curled into spikes rather than lifted up in a solid comb.

Ax (ax) is a medium-wide mohawk that ends at the crown of the head, not the back of the head.

Anti - in the place where the mohawk should be, he is not, his hair is shaved bald. But on the right and left, from the bald head, two mohawks are made.

Iguana - this hairstyle looks like a double mohawk, starting from the middle of the head and with a very wide parting in the middle, this hairstyle is somewhat reminiscent of a lizard.

Transverse - a strip of hair goes from ear to ear.

Combo - these are various combinations of the two most popular types of punk hairstyles - mohawk and thorns.

Checkers - is a checkered haircut on short hair, where empty checkers are shaved to zero.

They use punks and a kind of make-up - the eyes are drawn with a black pencil, and mascara is applied in a thick layer.