Russian district in New York: the story of "Little Odessa". Brighton Beach - Russian District in New York Where is Brighton Beach
After viewing, I got the question: why did the film "on Deribasovskaya good weather ..." is considered one of the worst Creations of Gaidai? To answer him I had to go to an unprecedented step - to think. What did not suit many viewers?
In my opinion subjective opinion, there is something that in some way "Davit" on this film - background, the overall atmosphere. This is the film of the early 90s. Volto or unwittingly comparing cinema with the classical works of Gaidai 60s-70s, the audience feel some kind of blizzard of the film 1993. Remember "Operation" s "or" Caucasian prisoner ", or" Ivan Vasilyevich ". What are these bright, colorful, juicy paintings. As they are tasty filed, with what colors they play how beautiful Gaidai could portray and the sunny Crimea, and the warehouse-building, and the residential quarter under construction, and a simple apartment of the inventor's scientist. And in the 90s, it was as if all the directors were distributed to the film of worse quality for "Homevideo" and said: "Now for a decade, remove only on it, write out about receipt." And here is the result - there are no paints. The film is blunt. There is no truly beautiful frames in the film.
But the most important thing is probably the fact that this film has ceased to be timeless. He, what is called the product of his era. Publicity, perestroika, Americans are now the best friends, the smell of a new life, the desire to imitate successful comedies about superages. Something like our answer "Golly Pistol". And this desire of Gaidai move along with all the directors in the same side, probably perceived by many spectators as the loss of his face. Rather, as an attempt to pull your mask on something bad. The same daunting has retained its directorial handwriting and in the perestroika time, but Leonid Jovich was painted. Therefore, a lot of sound "chips" sounds in the film, Gaidai films, but Gaidai himself seems to be not felt. I've asked myself a question: who could instead of Guydai to remove the "Operation" s ", which we know it? And I do not find a response to this question. And who could be the director of the film "On Deribasovskaya good weather ..."? And anyone. If you knew that the director was the same Arkady Inin or some of the directed comedies of the 90s: Roman Ershov, Yuri Mamin or Valery Chikov, would it be a strange for you? After all, in addition to Gaidaevsky sounds, nothing in the film does not give his presence.
But at the same time the film is not terrible. I like it very much. The scene itself, yes. There is a bright villain, there is his bright minions, each of which is responsible for its scope of the criminal world. Fuck minibors, standing on the way to the main boss. But it is a pity that the film did not particularly evolve this direction, limiting the Culadze and its casino. The rest were eliminated boring.
Whoever spoke to, but also a lot of good jokes in the film. A fun scene with a radist of monas and his surroundings. A funny scenic reversal with an outstanding Soviet consumer, who, instead of a melted raw, to which he was used, will push the Camembert, and instead of the spin - a real salmon. Lieutenant Rygodanok again. And a bunch of other small gags.
The most luxury is a concentrated parody of Khrushchev. In one minute, everyone was fitted: and the knock on the podium, and the cry "I'm throwing you!" (Squeezing to "We buried you"), and pulling the pants to the navel, and "Kuzkina Mother", and eternal "-Is" in the speech of Khrushchev (he was a little man), and the attitude towards "abstraction", well, and the Crimea. In general, so skillfully lay memes about Khrushchev in several replicas is cool. Although memes are there on a separate film.
In general, I will say that this film is good on a video tag, and in the courtyard so that the 90s were. In this case, it looks great and revised. In our time, it is still much more pleasure and you can also receive Hydai from old films from the unsolding classics. But "on Deribasovskaya ..." really not the best film of Matra.
History
The history of the district began significantly earlier. In the 19th century, the locality was decided to equip under the beach resort, which was extremely popular among the secured Europeans. About the past luxury resemble the preserved ruins of columns, shopped, etc. However, with the onset of the Great Depression, the poor layers of the New York Society began to flock here. Up to 20th century, the area was considered unfavorable and disastrous due to large number illegal and high level of crime.
Brighton Beach Nowadays
Modern Brighton Beach is experiencing a rapid change and construction, which causes the growth in the popularity of the area from the indigenous Americans not only as a place of summer holiday, but also a permanent place of residence. Russian tourists should certainly visit Brighton Beach!
The first thing that rushes into the eyes is the signs in Russian: "Odessa", "Golden Key", "Ukraine", "Moscow". In the showcases shocking inscriptions like "there is a balian" on sale ", remember times with signs in the kiosks:" There is beer ", although it was more often the opposite. This sign, though, few people read. Is there a beer, was determined for the mile on the concerns of people in line and a dick question in the eyes of "What package to fill?".
There are no more shops such as on Brighton in Russia. Nothing has changed here from the 80s. Just like in the museum. Saleswomen in kapron aprones are squeezed behind glass showcases littered with smoked fish, sausage and sausages. Sections of the former citizens of the Soviets are hanging out in the queues, without which they cannot live. No purchase without a queue will be joy. They have to remember, crouch and at the same time to buy something. In general, undoubtedly: not there well, where we are not, and there is bad, where we are.
Selecting from the store and approaching the newspaper kiosk, it will seem to you that each family has its own family, especially for her newspaper or magazine. The range of printed organs in Russian is impressive. Local print media adds the countless number of briefs from Russia.
Finally, walking around the area, laughing, noticeing, sooner or later you fall on the ocean promenade. No better time for a walk along the last kilometers of the Soviet Union. Carefree elderly sit on the benches, about something lively chatting. They organically fill the space, exactly exactly as ever among countless gray entrances, they sat all knowing and all seen grandmothers, and their favorite chalks ran around. Memories of times with fantastically low prices and a lack of everything, which prices sold are woven into the noise of ocean waves. The interlocutors continue to share the experience as they tried to get something deficient for the family, arrange children in kindergarten, bEST SCHOOL. Again, as it was better to earn a private owner, when the very concept was criminal. If you close your eyes to one of the moments of listening, you really seem that Brezhnev is still the Secretary General. Perhaps Brighton Beach is today a single amusement fleet of the Soviet period. No need Spielberg with his dinosaurs and expensive special effects. Just come and remove your blockbuster - "Back to the USSR"!
Meanwhile, all Soviet in Brighton Beach grows precisely on this limited segment of the ocean coast. This place is often called "Little Russia". But if on the pedestrian wooden promenade to go on, it is very soon, literally through a kilometer, the color of the beach bodies will begin to change, you seem to cross the invisible border, black backs, characteristic hairstyles "Latinoma" appear. With the proposal of drinks and food do not go Russian guys, but Mexicans and Italians. Consequently, we are approaching the famous horse Island (Coney Island)where the huge ferris wheel is spinning and more fun of children a variety of attractions.
Here in huge aquariums you can see almost all of the inhabitants of the Atlantic Ocean - from sharks and morn to the turtles and mollusks - and on a special water isna to see the view with the trained marine lions.
The biggest and most famous attraction of Koni-Island -Couvented in 1927 and the newly announced national treasures of the American slides "Cyclone" (Cyclone Rollercoaster). In 110 seconds, the trailers overcome a distance of 800 meters, developing speeds up to 100 km / h. And I must say, these 110 seconds are five dollars spent on them. For the second time in a row, it is possible to rent even for 4 dollars, but those who want to do it are quite a bit.
If you do not delve into subtleties, then the outer impression of Brighton is more than pleasant. The people are cheerful, satisfied, is careless, as in Stalin's films of the 30s. Meetings of friends and relatives, who comes from restaurants Music, whose catch-up laughter -All it creates an atmosphere of this holiday together. The overall mood can be transferred to you. He wants to goule. Friends of Globalism All persistent violates the unity of the atmosphere, gradually reducing the length of the Soviet kilometer to invisible sizes. Therefore, if your trip is your dream, then you should go to brain now!
The main center of Culture Brighton Beach - Millennium Theater (Millennium Theater) (1029 BRIGHTON Beach Ave)where guests "from the Big Earth" are speaking almost without breaks: from Zhvanetsky to Zhirinovsky.
Ten quarters north, on North-eleventh street (North 11th Street), Patriotic Citadel Williamsburg - Brooklyn Brewery BROOKLYN BREWERY). Over the eighties, there is a completely cheap beer here, which is served in almost all restaurants and eaters of Brooklyn. Every Saturday in the factory is carried out free excursions with tasting, and on Fridays from 6 to 11 pm, Happy Hour is arranged and pour eight beers of $ 3 for a mug.
How to get
You can get to this area on the subway, the final station of the branch "B" is called Brighton Beach BRIGHTON BEACH)However, about arrival in this area you will understand the streets. "Our" faces are recognized instantly. Unlike "not our" on them, everything is written on them: mood, marital status, wealth, attitude towards others. They are honest American at least, the smile on them is not automatically imprinted. If the owner of this person has unloved someone, he does not need to open his mouth to express his emotions verbally. The face itself says: "Do not come!"
By the way, the Metro train flying over Brighton, our people dubbed as always uniquely and in English indescribable - "Minute of silence" - to speak under the sounds of the cutting iron it is impossible.
From Manhattan on Brighton Beach walks trains with a circle on the room (i.e. local) And with Rhombik (i.e. expressions). Better to sit on express.
December 31, 2014 - New Year's Eve, New York. At the beginning of the day, we go to Brighton Beach - the Russian district, called the "Little Odessa". We learn how and where people from Russia and Ukraine in the United States live. And in the evening - the hardest thing - you have to go to the Times Square, take good places and meet New Year On the street in the crowd. On the eve of the trip, we read that it was practically unrealistic and, googling, did not find a single Russian-speaking review of the New Year's meeting process in New York on Times Squares, in order to sit down at someone at the apartment or stick in the next bar. However, the New Year's Times Square with a big concert, where you can see the stars, with congratulations of astronauts, large companies, firefighters and a tonne falling from the roofs of non-ferrous confetti skyscrapers for the song "New York, New York" performed by Frank Sinatra - " Ta-Tarara, Ta-Tarara. How can this be skipped. We learn, let's see and warning :)
Part 1. Brighton Beach.
In the meantime, Little Russia on the expanses of great America. In the morning we sit on the subway. Five stops of the line R, the transplant and 16 more stops of the line B - to go about 50 minutes. Let's remind you that our hotel is located in Brooklyn. And Brighton Beach is also located in Brooklyn. Yes, Brooklyn is a big area. About the area maybe I will write in a separate note, but still do not bother. The subway line in from the Prospect Park stop goes on the surface, and not underground. But in addition, I will not show you, since almost all the way on both sides were concrete fences or deaf walls of residential buildings and warehouses. Occasionally melded a street with a number of typical American homes or rear courtyards of these mercies of American citizens. 
And here we are on Brighton Beach. 
We descend and the metro elacade is now towers above the head. What we have seen in Russian films of the 90s, now in front of us in full reality. Typical metro overpack, passing over roads and width covers all the street from the sky and the sun. When the train goes, the hum stands a neuroyal, which is not heard next person. And under all this overpass, the street called Brighton Beach Avenue, which is known to many shops, shops, salons and other outlets whose signs are pleased with familiar Cyrillic inscriptions, that is, written in Russian. This area lit up in cinema less, of course, than the Park Central, but there are memorable films - brother 2, on Deribasovskaya, good weather or Brighton Beach is rained, requiem on a dream, weapon baron and others. 
We will come back to this street. For now, the sea is important for us. I can not explain my actions, but when I know that somewhere there is a sea and going to him, I have nothing to do, except to go to the sea. So here. We first decided to see that for what we settled here there are immigrants from the former Soviet Union - Ocean.
Koni-Island Street and Oceana's expensive residential complex in the photo on the right (the ocean and the embankment behind us). The complex was built in the early 2000s, and apartments here have acquired many major Russian businessmen, high-ranking Russian officials and popular figures of Russian show business. 
We go to the famous wooden embankment Brighton Beach - Boardwalk. The weather is sunny, clear, but frost. Walk. 
Atlantic Ocean. 
Brighton Beach gained fame in the USSR from the mid-1970s, when emigrants from Ukraine and Russia began to settle here, mostly Jews. After the collapse of the USSR in Brighton Beach began to come from the countries of the former USSR. The number of population population is more than 20 thousand people, but there are those who do not participate in the census, there may be about 30-50 thousand people. The area has a very high population density and the highest Brooklyn. However, compared with Times Square, Broadway, 5 and 7 Avenue, it seems that there are no people here. We arrived early, in the first half of the day, so that may still sleep before the new year meeting. 
Initially, Brighton Beach was designed in 1868 as a resort. By the end of the 19th century, he was considered a fashionable resort for relaxing rich Europeans. During the Great Depression (1930s), the area began to settle the poor layers of the New York population, and the second world War I put an end to the arrival of European resort workers. The area with exclusively resort infrastructure was among the poorest. However, then due to an increase in the birth rate and the large influx of immigrants from the USSR gradually began to recover. They attracted our former fellow citizens of the cheapness of housing in Brighton Beach, proximity to the ocean, good transport junction with the presence of a subway, where you can reach all regions of New York. Unusually, isn't it? Cheap accommodation on the sea is nonsense for us. 
Now live on Brighton Beach prestigious, because of what a stay went up. Rent apartments per month is from 1350 to 2,400 dollars. And here is a feature - it is not customary to glazing balconies. 
Balconies overlooking the sea. The cost of renting the apartments in this house is $ 1,800 per month. 
Local overlook the exchange and warm up in the sun. Compatriots feel at a distance. There are all such :) for Brighton Beach is characterized by low distribution of English language And even 30% of the population of the district may not even know it. Therefore, in Russian, we must speak and comment carefully. Everyone will understand everything :) We even asked for a photograph in Russian - a young Russian girl and a man is clearly an American, and maybe from a different country. I won't be surprised if the Americans are not on Brighton Beach not in their plate)))))) 
The infrastructure of the beach itself is well developed - open-air benches, benches under canopies, trash cans every 20 meters, somewhere there must be showers, as well as fresh water For drinking. 
And of course free toilets. Here we will visit the toilet :) 
Somehow it is in Soviet, or something :) especially artificial flowers. But clean. Although it is scary to be alone in a large toilet - you do not know who can tide you in one of the cabins. And silence. 
Along the beach you can see restaurants. We decided to go to one called Tatiana. Walking inside under the tarpaulin canopy, we met two elderly people at the table. Not even thinking, brother asked them in Russian whether the restaurant works. To which they, not surprising, they answered in Russian that they did not know and offered to go further inside and ask the staff or find out in the "Wave" restaurant nearby. After examining, we did not seem that restaurants work, and the staff was not observed. Early, only 11 hours of the day. 
Then we did not go, far. Yes, and it can be seen that there is a ferris wheel and attractions. At another time, when warmer, maybe, but we managed to freeze and wanted to eat. Therefore, just a few words. In the distance, the Koni Island district is visible, which is considered to be the birthplace of all amusement parks, he is even considered the progenitor of Disneyland and all the moon parks. It was here that the famous Hot Dog (1867) was invented (1867), American Gorki - Rolokoster (1884) and the world's first indoor amusement park (1895). And in 1879, Thomas Edison himself lit his first light bulb here. But the parks of entertainment are not interested in us. Just come here with children and in the warm season :) 
Return to Brighton Beach Avenue. I will not comment here. Most signages have already been replaced by English versions or written by Latin, but they still remain in Russian. Signs :) 
We make a circle from Koni Island Avenue to Brighton 1st RD (Brighton 1st RD), where trees were sold under the overpass. 
It seems that you are not in the center of all America, not in a noisy, fashionable, business center, not in the "Big Apple", not in the metropolis of New York, and at home, in your city, where we also walk away, with Packages for shopping, discuss news in your native language, all price tags in stores in Russian, in a music store you can find Russian movies and music, in souvenirs to buy a t-shirt with the inscription "Enough to drink!" Or purchase the flag of Ukraine. One of the popular books in the bookstore - accidentally came across the eyes of the Aksen "Island of Crimea". And in the "national" theater will soon be the evening of the Ukrainian song. We're home! ;) 
The overpass over the road was decorated with New Year's Eve. In the middle of all the design what was? Well, of course, the Jewish sevenness of Menorah. In New York, this element is very often met, but did not attach importance, we live in Dnepropetrovsk. It was surprised by the presence of Menora in front of the Christmas tree and in Wall Street (). But after that there is no doubt no - New York is built and develops thanks to the Jews, and possibly not only one;) 
Oh yeah, we want to eat. Why did we go to the institution with this name? I do not know. Cafe "in the mother-in-law" :) 
They greeted in Russian, the menu was given in Russian, the order was accepted in Russian, and Russian cuisine here. We ordered, well, naturally, Salad Olivier, and also dumplings, pilaf, tea, pancakes with meat. Oh, what burgers - Fu :) There are only 30 bucks, and they also asked Salad Olivier with pancakes with her. Service :) and by the way very tasty. And sugar cubes ... :) 
Well, enough to us Russian, we must return to America. Ahead is a new year meeting, and we are without champagne.
Arriving in New York, I first went not to Manhattan with his lights and bright advertisements. I followed where hundreds of thousands of compatriots came, who first arrived in America - on Brighton Beach, the famous Russian community. Unlike them, I got to Brighton not with Deribasovskaya and not live, but just to visit.
What I spent in the US two months before being in this "Mecca", of course, influenced my impression from Brighton. The charm of this place, the fumes in books and films crashed into small fragments.
"Beton-Beach and Deribasovsky's uneasy-minded" or why "Stirlitz wounded uncontrollably to his homeland" - in my reporting report.
1. Brighton began to settle Russians at the beginning of the seventies. How did they manage to leave the country of advice, how were the emigrants leaked through an impregnable iron curtain? The fact is that at the end of the sixties, our dear, Leonid Ilyich signed a kind of international agreement, according to which the "persons of Jewish nationality" received the right to repatriate into the state of Israel. With several but: who wanted to leave abroad should have been a thorough check by all state security authorities that he does not take off with him state secrets, leaving all the awards and ranks, and to top it all, he had to pay a huge amount to the Soviet state - "compensation for Getting education. " Like, we fed you, they saw, and now you are leaving us? Pay! Jews paid, giving all the funds reversed from the sale of the property, the apartments were given as bribes, as a result, even a well-lived family turned out to be at the airport almost without money, but having fought with a huge number of unnecessary clothes, things, tape recorders, desktop lamps: all that they are not Could sell in the Union, but hoped to help out for them at least some kind of money in America. By the way, many formally left for Israel, with docking in Austria, but then changed their tickets and flew to New York. Some really turned out to be in Tel Aviv, but then they still moved to America: the United States regret Soviet Jews, the country offered them much better than in Israel, conditions. 
2. And so they found themselves in New York, nothing and no one know. Where did they rush? Of course, on Brighton, where the spectrine of the grandchildren, sarchka or Sonechka lived, does not matter. As political emigrants, the Jews had the right to the manual that the American state paid them. 
3. America is a completely different world, another planet, even now. I perfectly remember the feeling of my first days in the country, when everything is not like a familiar world, even if it is written on my language that is understandable for me. But for immigrants from the USSR, everything was strongly resolutely all: both the language, and people, and so successfully cultivated the myth of the "animal Oscal of capitalism". Well, on Brighton everything is in his own language, "their" people and institutions. We left different people. Someone tried to quickly learn the language and find a job, in the specialty or starting from the lowest. And someone successfully hooked on the manual, which so generously distributed Americans to poor emigrants. 
4. But let's leave our compatriots for a while, and we will return one hundred and fifty years, in the sixties of the nineteenth century, when this Brooklyn district of Brighton Beach appeared. This place was once popular with New Yorkians who came to the ocean beach to relax. Not far from the city, you can rush on the weekend, swim, play casino. For the convenience of holidaymakers, the ground railway was laid here, which was subsequently connected to the Network of the New York Metro. But from those who want to relax on Brighton on there was a penny, there were so many people here that the Sochi beach at the height of the season will seem deserted. During the Great Depression, Brighton came in decline: people had no money to ride to have fun. Fashionable casinos and restaurants began to close, and hotels began to take their rooms not for rent, but monthly, for a penny. Poor layers of the population, bankrupt families, rushed here and just living on the verge of a subsistence minimum. Through years, this place was chosen by the Soviet migrants of the first wave because of its cheapness. 
5. What is he - today's Brighton twenty-first century? Yes, exactly the same as ten, and twenty, and forty years ago. The structure of the area falls in layers: on the right ocean, behind him the sandy beach, on which there are not very many swimsuchists even in the summer. The beach from a residential area separates the wooden flooring of the width of a hundred meters, the so-called "Bordwalk" (Broadwalk), inherited from the former resort. Behind him - a living area of \u200b\u200bmulti-storey houses. Some stand here for a long time, but many have appeared after the settlement of the Russian district. The ground branch of the subway passes behind these houses. It is there "boils" the whole Brighton life, and we will soon go there soon. But while we walk on Bordvoku. 
6. Here, in America, I learned to unmistakably determine the types. He helped in this Brighton, but to learn compatriots are absolutely not difficult, and not even for the expression of the face, but by clothes and the manner of the gait. Soviet fashion does not say here. 
7. Here we dress in a completely special style, which is inherent only to the consecration from the USSR: incompatible colors and styles, cap and trousers from the costume - it is normal for Brighton. 
8. Where do not look - around such colorful characters that the camera does not have time to handle the captured cards. What do people do on the beach? Right, rest. No one bathes - and the point is not that at the end of May the Atlantic is cold, they just didn't swim, they also have a sea in Odessa, but they are the sea, "like a hare stop signal." 
9. Some are drunk to take sunbathing. 
10. This sporty suit and smelting seems to be brought back in the USSR and still have been preserved. 
11. The midst of the working day, but there are many people on the beach. It would be possible to think that they were joined to the American Loyter movement (people who sit and do nothing), but our former fellow citizens are not so primitive: they read, communicate with each other. 
12. Old men playing board games are a common phenomenon for many Soviet courtyards. This is communication, and if they play chess - also training for the brain. But however, it was wild to see people, all day of moving figures and knocking knuckles on the table - after I saw the leisure of American pensioners: swimming pool, gym, club, theater, concert of amateurcies for themselves or travel .... 
13. Although the institutions are adapted for local residents, Brightonovtsy do not visit cafes and restaurants without reason. How is it so - go to drink coffee? Bring out of the house in a thermos to the beach - not everyone can guess. 
14. So the tables of restaurants "Wave", "Tatiana" and "Primorsky" until late in the evening are empty, where they sometimes sometimes have chic balls and concerts of outdated stars, but more and less often: entertainment costs money, and on everyday The holiday from the former Soviet people who became Americans, there is no money. 
15. After two months of "one-story" America, I was very unusual to look at the city of highlights with yards, fenced fences. But the main difference between Brighton from the whole country - left for America, these people brought with them not only old fur coats and records, they brought their vision of the world, to part with which they could not. 
16. Chinatown or Italian District (and there are almost any major city, such national neighborhoods) much more similar to America than Brighton Beach. There are only signs and conversational speech on the street, the architecture of buildings is different here. 
17. Old houses that are almost under a hundred years, of course, quite American, although here you can find air conditioners on the facades, a distinctive feature that hints at the ethnic composition of the inhabitants of the house. In America, even in old houses that did not equip the air conditioners, the tenants usually discount on the installation of the central system, and someone refused, someone was not at home, as a result of the brown windows of the Red House sticks white lattice boxes. 
19. And one of Brighton's house reminded the classic Soviet twelve-fitting towers. This house seems so alien here, and let the floors not twelve - the similarity is obvious. 
20. What should cause nostalgia - causes rejection. Freshly-born carpet on the balcony, thrown on the garbage and necessarily broken with a hammer TV - so as not to get anyone. 
21. But the main life of Brighton, as I wrote earlier, boils under the branch of the ground railway New York metro. This is one of the most remote areas of the city, more than an hour by train. Go down - and you find yourself in the very center of trading, business, cultural, religious, and just Brighton life. I arrived here by car, and I had a little time to get used to local realities. But the life of "under the subway" shocks any. 
23. Here it is an extravaganza of Russian signs and signs. Feel wildly after two months have not seen anything on Cyrillic! 
25. By local customs (well, America is still almost translated into English. Yes, that is, it is from Russian to English. At the same time, both in one and another, as a rule, it is written. 
26. Many signs hint at the country, and even on not entirely legal divisions. For example, you can read a lecture on how to get away from taxes or save on accounts. Driving school - quite legal, but in America they are not common as we. Therefore, here you will read a five-hour lecture, the mastering you can go to give to rights, and even give the car to ride. 
27. And of course, only Brighton can meet things, wild for the rest of America, but so familiar to Russia. 
28. Sometimes here you can meet brands common in America, such as the product pharmacies of Walgreens, but even it is adapted for the Russian-speaking population. 
29. The grocery supermarket also remained in the past: there were almost no left in Russia, in America and suppressed, and on Brighton this "gastronomy" from the nineties is the very place. 
30. None of the American stores do not meet such "storage cameras". It is logical that if a person comes to the store with a backpack or bag - it is so convenient for him. In the grocery, you are forced to pass everything into these trays. And the first phrase, which you welcome store employees, freezing the camera on your neck "We have banned forbidden." I had to go to the owner of the store and explain who I am so and why it is necessary. The owner turned out to be adequate and allowed me to photograph in his grocery. 
31. Oh, how many familiar products are here! Even the price tags write by hand, except the price is still in dollars. 
32. Part of the goods came here directly from Russia, and some, perishable, do here, in Brooklyn, but according to the "old Russian recipes". Residents are satisfied. 
33. What kind of happiness is to buy sausages without meat and sausage, where the fat is more than sausages! Is it worth saying that there are simply no other stores on Brighton? 
34. Suddenly a young guy of Asian appearance grown on the horizon. "We can not photograph!".
- Why? I drove half america and no one ever asked me to remove the camera, what do you have secret, overdue goods here?
"No, I have nothing against anything, I immediately retreated a guy." - Guide swears.
Having assured the employee of the grocery worker, that with his leadership I settled everything, I began to ask him about life. It turned out, the guy recently arrived from Kazakhstan, to make money. After a couple of years he plans to go back. "Well, there is a house, family, mom. They won't go here." He does not like Brighton, says that everything is almost the same as at home, only there is a sea and cigarettes expensive. Further borders of Brooklyn he never traveled.
35. In the grocery store you can buy ready-made food, of course, Russian dishes: cutlets, potatoes, pancakes, sauer cabbage, cucumbers and watermelon. 
37. In the midst of the working day, only a pair of tickets works, queues are formed. Credit cards take only two tickets, on the other "only cache". Cards "Charjat" are quite reluctant, the cashier hangs the announcement written from hand that the minimum amount for paying cards is $ 10. So, by the way, everywhere on Brighton. Sometimes you will still be treated to pay in cash: "You are what, a fool, pay to pay. And for dollars, I can sell for dollars." By the way, no one could explain to me the reason for the minimum limit on the phrase that they violate this law, they simply shrugged. 
38. From this grocery, I wanted to run away where my eyes look. But there is nowhere to run - around all the same Russian ghetto. 
39. Yes, ghetto is perhaps the most faithful word. As in any "bad area", America is very dirty here. The only difference is that I understand the speech of these people, so you can move here relatively calmly. 
40. Sample Brightonovsky language. Read all ads carefully, get a fan! 
42. 
43. Very many "post offices". Of course, this is not a real mail - not USPS, not DHL and not FedEx. These small contacts are shipping anything to the historic homeland. As a rule, such a parcel will be worth 15-20 dollars, which is much cheaper than sending by ordinary mail. And, as a rule, faster - all this is done through the pronounced Aeroflotovsky and AeroSvitovsky (in the case of Ukraine) Stewardess. 
44. I did not dare to dine on Brighton, but those who tried it, they say that the service is long, half the menu may not be available, and even they are still easy. I'm not surprised. 
45. Street trade is some kind of scourge of our people. Well, why it is necessary to arrange the collapse from dirty tables, why can not be built at least a small shopping center or shop? 
46. \u200b\u200bAlthough there are shops here too. Pierce and mediocrely decorated, with the mixture of all possible and impossible things, in the style of Indian trucks: the more all sorts of different things - the better. 
47. Inside the bookstore. 
48. "This music will be eternal - if I replace the batteries." By the way, how do you like an old disc of Alla for 15 dollars? Fans will not stop nothing. 
49. After an hour of exchanges "under the subway" from Brighton, you begin to get tired, headache. So much faster and incompatible ... 
50. You start to get tired of individuals. Not joyful, with extinct eyes ... It seems that these people have all died, and just at once. 
51. The backyards of this place are not different from a typical street in almost any Russian or Ukrainian city. Everything is closed, on the street rubbish, but the parked cars are completely Mercedes. 
52. Here you can meet many of the most different pharmacies, but not everyone will understand that the pharmacy in America is not a pharmacy at all, and even Brighton has to be reckoned with this. In the so-called "Pharmacey" you can buy a toothpaste, washing powder or gas production, and from drugs in best case You will be sold from the head or constipation. Sale of serious medicines - only on the doctor's prescription, and not in every "pharmacy" there is such a product, the doctor usually gives a list of addresses where you can buy a prescribed drug. Why does the pharmacy have everything except drugs? This story leaves almost a century ago, when the pharmacists themselves pushed their powders into the steps and mixed medicines. But large companies appeared, which began to produce medicines at the factories, and to sell pharmacists ready tools. The Pharmacist's business went to the decline, and they needed to somehow get out. So the pharmacaries fry the scrambled eggs and squeeze juice from oranges. The man went behind the pills, and at the same time he atheel. In the sixties, pharmacies stopped being cafeterias, but they began to sell food and light snacks, the so-called "Junk Food is a lot of food." Since then, it has been done: in the American pharmacy it is impossible to buy neither antibiotics of the fresh meat, only a gas composition, chips and shampoo. 
53. Plates and funny signs on Brighton Beach are a lot, to all comments will not write. Enjoy no comment! And when you finish, we will continue the walk. 
55.
57. Foundations are famous concert Hall Millennium, where the famous performers of the Russian-Ukrainian-Soviet pop. Familiar, who have long bored everyone, they collect the full halls here. 
59. Despite all the efforts, I could not find here Putin's portrait - Brightonovtsy him are not very complaining, but they are very closely watching the situation in Motherland, buying books about Zhulikov and thieves, selling power, Putin, Medvedev and Matvienko. 
63. Compatriots prefer to settle in anthills, in their own will. To put grilles on the windows and iron doors, complain about the loud neighbors and take the garbage in the fur coat and slippers. 
64. Oh, former fellow citizens! You so rushed to America, you wanted to escape from the hated Soviet scoop, but did you fail to run away from ourselves? 
65. No, they could not. 
66. Perhaps some of you even tried to do this: they learned the language, looking for work. But it is difficult to start a new life, the unknown always scares. America gave you social security and retire you have deprived of you in the Union. Did you call you only out of pity? So that you just sat on the bench, listened to the pocket radio (they sit together, but he listens to each of their own, do not know about the existence of headphones) and did nothing? 
67. This is a very sad picture - look at those who wanted to change something in their lives, decided to throw everything and move on the other side of the world. What for? To just change the "registration", without changing anything in yourself? By the way, it is impossible to calculate the exact number of Brighton Beach residents, they do not participate in the censuses of the population. 
68. Look at your life under the metrometer I am tired very quickly, and I set off for the car, back to the beach. 
69. On the way to the parking place, I went to the park, in which several dozen retirees were sitting. Almost all of them came here about thirty years ago, even in Soviet times. Now they play cards, backgammon, Domino, read newspapers and dislike each other bones. Graces were glad of fresh blood and talked to me with pleasure, without allowing, however, they photograph them.
You have thieves in Russia! All of them rogues and gangsters!
- How do I feel sorry for Russian people! They could live so well, but damned democrats (the Communists - the need to emphasize) do not give them anything, only steal and steal!
Phrases about how bad in Russia have surrendered me from all sides. These people, entire days spending on the benches on the shores of the Atlantic Ocean, reported to me completely unnecessary information that I also knew. All attempts to talk, whether America like them and whether they got their happiness ended the failure: "Of course, we like it! We are citizens of a free country, we have passports! But in Russia, thieves of the power!".
But no one left for general words, these people diligently avoided talking about personal experience And success in America. Many of them learned English and never left for their area. No, once, two in the thirty years, they were in Manhattan, but only when relatives came to them, in English at least a little speaking.
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Perhaps no other place in America received such fame in the former alliance as the New York district of Brighton Beach, where our numerous compatriots live. Moreover, among the "former" themselves, about the equally equal to those who consider Brighton Beach Zholovsky and a depressive place, but exactly the same area they love this area and live there, or they come to walk. Meanwhile, the Russian district began with the 70s of the 20th century, that is, more than 40 years ago. Initially, at the beginning of the century, it was a fashionable resort, about living in which poor emigrants could not even dream. The whole New York bomond was rested here and Frank Sinatra himself gave concerts here shortly before the beginning of World War II. Everything collapsed just as a result of war in Europe. First, the ocean coast of the United States turned into a closed military zone and the German submarines were again around, trying to break through to the arrows of New York, and the second economic crisis and the disappearance of European tourists. In the 50-60 years, Brighton Beach, despite all its magnificent beaches, became a poor suburbs of New York, miserable the outskirts of the already modest Brooklyn. While ... until we arrived!
From the center of New York, there is quite far enough, about 20 kilometers in direct and most convenient to reach the subway, the station is called, Brighton Beach, it is impossible to make a mistake. And you will see our people in the car, their percentage component will increase as the approach approaching the said station -
Initially, the first "Russians" on Brighton were, of course, Jews. In 1972, as a result of the adoption of the Jackson-Vanik amendment regarding the ban on departure from the country of Soviet Jews, the United States imposed economic sanctions on the Brezhnev USSR. As a result, the councils came across and allowed about 200 thousand Jews to leave the country. Approximately half went to Israel, and half just in the United States, to a large extent in New York and partly in Baltimore and San Francisco. But it would be a mistake to think that all Russian-speaking emigrants in America - Jews. Absolutely not so. After the collapse of the USSR, for the ocean arrived around two million (!) Russian-speaking citizens, of which, this time, the Jews were God, if one third is from the total number. According to the overall feeling of the residents of Brighton (and I communicated with 3-4 families), today there are even more ethnic Ukrainians than the Jews and Russians combined. Plus, over the past few decades, several thousand Georgians, Armenians and residents of Uzbekistan arrived in Brighton. This is me that a joke about the Jewish Tetu Rose here is far from everyone will understand and will appreciate, but there will be a temple on Georgian, he also twists your finger at the temple.
Why don't many people in America tolerate Brighton Beach in America? First of all, because having left the "scoop" (not to be confused with modern RussiaFor, because the main part was still leaving the stagnant USSR), people did not want to live among those who nostalgicize this very "scoop". On the contrary, they sought to live among Americans and quickly become Americans. Not all this happened, but such a theory has the right to exist. For example, without exception, my relatives in the States and Canada (and there I have a false incredible number, families, I think, fifty) Brighton Beach do not like.
My opinion? And I like it here. No, not atmosphere and environment, I do not have a case to the environment. I live today in Batumi and perceive most of the locals as part of the landscape, communicating exclusively in the Expatch environment. No, Brighton I like others, I will tell the drop further. In the meantime, just walk and the walk will inevitably start from the metro station -
Brighton Beach Avenue is that the most "Russian street" New York. But this does not mean that anywhere else our people live. Just on this street they do not live, there is very noisy from passing trains. But, there are all shops, restaurants and social life of the area -
You can estimate prices for products, but this is the price per pound. Let me remind you that 1 pound is equal to 453 grams of weight, simply speaking, multiply the digit into two and there will be a price tag for a kilogram -
Newspapers seems to hint that the contingent is age. Young people already read news on the Internet and clearly in English -
Sad looks for the sale of old books for $ 1.99 dollar. People with such difficulty dragged their Soviet Blobes in America, all these meetings of Chekhov and Turgenev. And all in order to then give them to the old women -
Movies on disks, the same yesterday -
But the topic of moving to America through a fictitious marriage is still relevant. The fifty-year-old bride will cost you about 20 thousand dollars and it will be all the necessary 3-4 years with you in the emigration service, confirming that you still have a carrot. Recently, the truth is the bride for money more and more by age pull on serious grandmothers, so now the bride-mexican bride, or Chinese woman, herself, for a couple of years, as the US passport.
About work. Here, a considerable part of employees fell in a gray scheme, as in Russia and in Ukraine. That is, you officially work, say, a third bets and you are charged $ 500-600 per month. What is not enough? And you thought that there were wages of 120 thousand dollars a year, how did you tell you the familiar Aytichnik from Selonova Valley? No, there are at least 7.45 dollars per hour, but even on this amount they manage to "tormented" and give you a salary in the envelope. Simply put, not specifically in this institution, but in general the area, salaries make up a total of 1200-1600 dollars per month.
But here and live relatively cheap. Rent a room in the apartment costs $ 350-500 per month, and an apartment from a bedroom and a salon is about 1000 per month and even happens slightly cheaper, for example 800. This is a third value of this not just in comparison with Manhattan (there are five times more), and Even with Brooklyn. For comparison, in Washington, my relative shot studio for 2000 a month, not in the center. In this regard, to live here is not so expensive, especially since it is one of the most expensive cities in the world.
Price tags in a restaurant -
Most of our people, as already mentioned, live at all near the subway (there is noisy), but in these modern houses in the neighborhood -
Walking nearby, it is easy to note the contingent -
Sharing the rug on the head of pedestrians downstairs - this is our everything!
And now I will tell you why I really like Brighton Beach. We abstract from Russian signs and an emigrant environment, well? Switched? Now look, what is it Beautiful here: fantastic beaches, elegant embankment, ocean, nice breeze, fresh air -
Yes, all this is Brighton Beach, and that street with Russian signs on the second line, here for these high-altitude houses, five minutes walk from the beaches -
What's wrong? Forget you about our fellow citizens, no one forces you to communicate with them, and they don't care about you, I assure. Just rejoice in what you live in New York, one of the coolest cities in the world and not somewhere in the barx slum, and overlooking the Atlantic Ocean.
But it is difficult to abstractly abstract, I agree. I have no absolutely bias to emigrants and I myself am three times an emigrant. But in something my relatives are right, life among people living in the past is harmful. This is a philosophical and unemployed topic, because it is no secret that most of these grandparents came to America with young guys and girls in distant 70-80 years. Not many of them can say that happy with their emigration ...
What are her grandmothers on benches shuffle? Yes, about the same, about which grandmothers chat on a bench in Moscow, or Yekaterinburg: tests, Putin, pensions, grandchildren, Trump. There is nothing new under the sun.
And this frame cheated me. Drunk in the board, with the Russian flag on the ass. Missed to the unfortunate dog: "Ah you are a bitch, the same as your mistress, fucking!". The unfortunate animal tried to hide from him, but he brutally slowed her behind the leash.
Nevertheless, Brighton Beach changes rapidly. Hurry to where the spirit of Soviet Odessa is still preserved, while these colorful grandparents are alive. Another ten years, and Brighton Beach will be mainly Arabic. These guys are more and more
It is better if the Russian grandmothers will replace at least the Chinese, people harmless and workers ...
Good night, Brighton Beach, peace to you!
The metro doors closed and this strange area with an unusual destiny remained somewhere far away. It will take quite a few time this symbol of "Russian America" \u200b\u200bwill forever disappear along with these grandmothers. Their children and grandchildren are no longer there, where their parents arrived. They turn into Americans and travel around the vast country.
