Saplings with the mind of Sayage - there will be a good crop. What if the plant has dried during delivery? Is it possible to plant fruit seedlings in place, where there were garden beds

Spring, Spring, Spring! Winter hook ended, and he dug into the cottage. And there - the sea of \u200b\u200bproblems and desires. And no matter how many rare garden plot, I always want to acquire something new, unusual. Yes, and advertising does not leave us alone, offering "super" extraordinary seedlings and seeds.

And, here, here, when buying, you need to approach the cold mind, or as one of my reliable sellers of green products said, Lena Dolvan, - "turn on the brains."

To the cautious choice of seedlings, I also did not come immediately. How many samples how many errors. I have already accumulated sufficient experience in growing various garden and garden plants, when my husband and I participated in the exhibition in Tosno, the Leningrad Region.

Also, caught on the advertising photo, I was ready to buy a column-like pear. Well, how not to want to see in the photo, a small, solving the license trunk, with the adorable fruits of the most real pears. Yes, and imagination immediately triggers where the miracle is planted on the site. But, alas, the seller will never tell you that it brought it a miracle in the Crimea, and it is clear that we, in the Leningrad region, the column-like pears in the ground will not grow, will not be extinctated.

And her husband sent me to the sellers of one of the nurseries of the Leningrad region, cool my dust. We received advice from them - not to throw money, and not small, all the same pears on such a tree will not see.

Based on his trial and errors, I will share some considerations for buying and landing fruit trees, shrubs, strawberries (academic - large-scale strawberries) and some colors.

Saplings of fruit trees

Saplings of fruit trees: apple trees, pears, drain, cherry, etc. can be sold with a closed and open root system. Open - understandable by itself, closed - in the container.

Suction roots, which feed the plant, are at the ends of skeletal branches. When drying, it is delicate, white, suction roots that are perfectly dying.

In the spring you can buy seedlings with an open root systemBut at the same time it is necessary to carefully inspect the roots and ... kidneys, it is the kidney, and not the leaves should be on a sapling. Let those who have already woken up, with a green tip, but kidney, and, that's why.

Leaves, blossomed on a sapling, require nutrition. And food, especially if the suction roots dried, does not come. For a few days, leaves dried. Even if after the purchase, a seedling with blossomed leaves, immediately put in the ground, will need more weeks to start the root growth. Such a sapling is most likely not taken.

If the kidney seedling, even with a green cone, and skeletal branches ends with fresh suction roots, then buy. But, immediately pack in the wet cloth and wrap with polyethylene. It should be thought about it, going to the exhibition or in the nursery.

Buy seedlings in the fall with an open root system better later, in the second half of September. By this time the vegetation of plants ends, and the leaves no longer play a large role for their nutrition. Growth should be discontinued. And they will indicate us on this - the ends of the branches and in most cases, the color of the bark.

If in the fall on a sapling at the ends of the branches, light-green leaves, that is, it can be seen that the growth of the branches did not end, if the bark is greenish, then it is either scoring, for sale, a seedling with the enhanced application of nitrogen fertilizers, or an instance from southern regions, where vegetation Ends later.

In the first case, the seedlock was not prepared for the winter and he had an increased probability to freeze in winter, and in the second case - the sapling will freeze one hundred percent, he does not have winter hardiness for our region.

Plums, cherries and sea buckthorn with an open root system in our region are not recommended in the fall, since it is likely that they will come.

More often sold seedlings with a closed root system. A seedling with a closed root system is a plant planted in a period or a pot, or in a plastic bag. You can land into the container immediately after vaccination or some time the sapling grows in the ground, and then it is transplanted into the container. The main thing is that the seedlock is not transplanted into the container in recent days before selling. This can be determined by the surface layer of the Earth in the container. If the land is loose and none blades ripped on it, the sapling stuck in the container before selling. And it does not care that buy a seedling with an open root system with all the ensuing consequences.

The advantage of the closed root system is very large. The plant can be transplanted at any time, from early spring to late autumn. The root system is not injured, the plant does not need to be traced, the roots, feeling a new space, will begin to master it.

But! In the previous good time I wrote out the newspaper "Academy of Gardener". So, here, the Academy recommended buying seedlings of one-air seedlings. But I want to buy a 4th, 5-year-old plant at once, watch the next year and turn off. But, that's the Academy and correctly recommended.

We strive. With a one-year-old saplress, it was clear - the roots did not grow much, did not intertwine in the container, and when the transplant is actively going into growth. And if the seedling grows in the container two, or even three, and four years. The roots are so intertwined with each other that it is difficult for them when sung. You can, of course, to roam, the roots disassemble, but then it will already be a landing like a landing with an open root system.

Buy 2, 3, 4-year-old seedlings with an open root system at all risky. When digging out of the soil, the ends of skeletal roots are cut or broken and the observing of plants drops sharply.

At one of the exhibitions, I, for the experiment, bought this, or two-year-old, or a three-year-old seedling in a container: an apple tree called "White Pouring".

The barrel exceeded 2 meters, interstices on the trunk were frequent, which is characteristic of column-like apple trees, but in no way - for ordinary. In mid-September, I landed an apple tree into the soil. As expected, the apple tree has fed. But, a strong escape went from the root, which meant that the roots were finally died.

Hoping for the still winter-hardy root system, after a year I put it on escape, which used as a dive, cutting of an apple tree "Legend". Oh, this amazing apple tree I have long wanted to grow in my area. Her apples to taste at the level of "Jonathan" and "Fuji" varieties, and in the winter hardiness apple tree surpasses the Antonovka variety.

The first year, the vaccination reached 60 centimeters and turned successfully, but the next winter was extinct. New Dichkov has not grown, the roots died with vaccination. Most likely due to the low winter hardiness of the stock (roots), vaccination died.

Conclusion: the apple tree acquired at the exhibition in St. Petersburg was clearly southern origin, therefore died both the above-ground part and the root system.

Very briefly on planting seedlings in spring

Landing depends on the soil. Suglinki and clay soil occupy the largest part of the Leningrad region. The first rule: do not watered a pit in clay - this is a grave for a sapling. The pit in clay is a vessel where the water accumulates, the roots are puments, freeze in winter and the sapling dies.

Last time I developed a simplified planting system. I look for a circle, a diameter of 80 centimeters, the soil is not recalled. The center put the leaf of the turf 30x30 cm, I put a seedling seedling with an earthen room freed from the container. I spray with a fertile soil cooked from the delicate earth with the addition of peat, humus or compost, sand, ash. I fall asleep with this soil, not reaching 3-4 cm before the vaccination. Near the stake and tie a seedling barrel to it.

When landing in peat soil, the creation of a "hill" is not required. But, if all the soil waters close to the surface, the landing on the "Hill" is desirable.

Sanding grounds prevail in the north of the Leningrad region. Here is your feature of the landing. Water leaves without lingering, but sandy soils are poor soils. It is necessary to provide a large nutrient soil. Here, in this case, you can dig a pits from 60 centimeters in depth and more, with a diameter of 120 cm and fill it with fertile land. To fertile land Not washed away, did not leave in the sand, it is recommended to close the clay "pillow" to bottom, the clay layer is at least 10 cm.

You will have to work to work, of course, but if you are lucky to buy a zoned variety, then a good harvest cannot be avoided.

But, I confess that I have not been buying the seedlings of fruit trees for a long time, I prescribe cuttings, including apple trees, pears, Alyci, plum, cherries .... And vaccinate. Cheaper, more reliable and more interesting.

I recommend purchasing seedlings of fruit trees in proven, specialized nurseries of the Leningrad region. This is the Novo-Lisinsky nursery, and the Slavic manor, nurseries in Pushkin and Pavlovsk. Excellent nursery in Thai, Gatchina district.

Saplings of fruit shrubs

Fruit shrubs are black, red and white currant, gooseberry, honeysuckle, raspberries and rare shrubs: for example, golden currant, yoshta, plum gum and others.

With shrubs, problems are less. Black currant is well rooted in spring and summer, gooseberry, raspberry, the honeysuckle can also plant and in spring and autumn.

It is important to remember that in the spring when buying on plants with an open root system, the kidneys must be, half-sponsored, and not open with the leaves.

Be sure to pay attention to the root system, on suction roots. If you still managed to buy a plant with raspberry roots, then before landing for a day, two hold the roots in the water, and when landing, plunge the roots into the clay bolt (you need to break the clay to the state of the liquid sour cream).

And remember that the red, white currant, gooseberry, the honeysuckle can grow in one place for more than 15-20 years, and the black currant must be updated after 8 years.

The honeysuckle fertures on last year's growths, it is necessary to stimulate the increase, annual clipping after the fruction of one, two branches. After cutting, feed and pour.

With a closed root system, the seedlings of fruit shrubs can be planted from early spring to late autumn.

Strawberry

If you want to acquire a really varietal strawberry, I recommend buying only in containers and only in proven nurseries. More expensive, but reliable. During the year in the uterine bed with two bushes, you can get more than 20 sockets. The uterine bed is a breeding bed, and not for crop growing.

A bed of 1 x 1 m 2 is enough to plant two bustle. All the appearing flowers are removed, the energy of the bush goes to the formation of a mustache. In August, they can already be transferred to beds for fruiting.

Breeding mustache is vegetative reproductionInheritance, all varietal grades are transmitted inheritance (rosettes on a mustache). When growing strawberries or strawberries from seeds, the variety is not guaranteed. Seeds ripen on a berry that the bee could pollimate another variety. Whose bush will go from the seed - it is unknown: whether in "Mom", inherits varietal qualities, or in the "dad", a variety that the bee has pollinated flower. Everything, like people: Some children look like a mother, others on dad, and happen, on a grandfather or grandmother.

A few words about grapes

Grapes successfully steps in the northwest. I grind and feed on an environmentally friendly harvest mom and small great-grandchildren. But, no one year went to the selection of varieties suitable for our climate.

Again, acted by samples and errors. This year I continue to try. Five bushes, on which the harvest does not have time to mature, incite and give new experimental varieties.

Autumn - Suitable time to land new trees in the garden. We talked with the candidate of biological sciences by Raisa Matveyeva and asked her questions that are often arising from amateur gardeners.

We hope, after reading this material, you will not doubt your strength and no problem "set" new tenants in the garden.

1. What should be the roots at a seedling? What to pay attention to when buying?

From how well developed and viable roots, the further fate of the plant depends. The length of skeletal roots in seedlings of seed and bone crops should be at least 25-30 cm. Plants with very short roots or do not take root at all, or they are very bad and lagged behind in growth. Short roots after landing do not go deep into, and spread in the upper soil layer, which is characterized by an unstable water regime. Also on them are formed less growth points.

In addition to the length on the quality of the root system, its structure indicates - seedlings with a rod root system and poorly developed side roots are good. Plants are significantly better and faster, which in addition to large roots have many thin, converting (urine) roots.

Roots from quality seedlings should be healthy, without signs of frozen and drying.

Remember! It is better to buy a seedling with an insufficiently developed crown, but good roots than with a strong above-ground part and a well-formed crown, but with short cropped roots.

2. Sometimes seedlings are sold with apples hanging on branches. This is normal?

With leaves and especially with the fruits, buy seedlings!

3. How to save a seedling after shopping?

It is not enough to choose a good varietal seedling, it still needs to be carefully delivered to the garden. Any young plant, whether it is an apple tree, a pear, cherry, cherry, a currant or gooseberry bush is a living organism. When such a sapling dug out of the soil, the roots are already stopped supplying it with water, and the leaves continue to evaporate.

Often you have to witness how purchased seedlings deliver to the landing site: in best case The roots are wrapped with newspaper paper, or even just bare, branches are not connected.

How to do? First of all, take care of the roots: sow them with a moistened burlap, a rag, grass (not only outside, but also inside the beam), and then pack into any material.

If the leaves remained on the saplings, immediately tear them off, without damaging the kidneys, and the branches in the seedling beam tightly tight the soft twine. It is desirable and the entire bundle of seedlings (stem, branches) to wind at least paper. With long-term finding seedlings on the way, be sure to water their roots and branches with water so as not to allow drying.

4. What should I do if the plant dried during delivery?

In this case, the seedling needs to be rooted in water for a day.

5. Do you need to trim roots when landing?

In all cases, when digging seedlings in the nursery roots are damaged, their ends are warm and twisted. Therefore, before planting, young plants and first of all the roots need to carefully inspect: they must be fresh. Dry, frozen, drunk, affected by mold roots should be cut, durable - shorten to healthy parts. Healthy root on the cross section of white color, and the frozen and dried - brown.

Crop the roots with a sharp knife. Secators do not give a smooth cut, knead the root.

After preparing the roots, it is worth a dip in the clay chatter and to the landing temporarily to touch the seedling into a wet land.

6. What depth do you need to plant fruit and berry cultures?

It is very important at first to provide a young plant with a very shortened when digging from nursery roots the best conditions for the observing and growth of new roots.

Landing Pits for the correct and uniform development of roots is better to do round with the sheer walls. Pits, narrowed to the bottom, is not the best option: they will be crushed in them and grow in the middle of the pit.

7. How often do you need to water just planted seedlings?

After landing, as soon as the roots are covered with a layer with a thickness of 10-15 cm, 2-3 buckets of water pour into the landing pit. The soil discharged by water fills the generated emissions around the roots, which in these conditions are better at all.

When the moisture is absorbed, the pit falls asleep to the top and the plant is no longer watered. The upper soil layer remains friable and breathable. In the future, the need for irrigation depends on the weather and the degree of drainage of the soil. Garden cultures are needed not frequent watering, but moisturizing the soil to the depth of the root system.

8. Is it necessary to drive into the landing pocket count?

Landing sphere for a young seedling. He protects it from the wind and does not allow to swing and bend. In the first years, such a backup also serves as the basis for winter strapping from Zaitsev or the actions of frost.

If you plan the standard sapling without curvature of the stem in the windless corner of the site and are sure that the hares will not be on it, then the installation of the landing cola is optional.

9. Do I need to mulch the place of planting a sapling?

Mulching delays the evaporation of moisture from the soil, improves the temperature and soil structure, protects the Earth from weighing, suppresses the development of weeds. The layer of organic on the surface of the soil is not recommended to touch the whole season. Plants whose competitive circle is closed, almost twice the fastest and better develop, especially in dry years (in comparison with untreated).

10. How to climb the garden?

The rich circles of fruit and berry trees can be mulched by cardboard, compost, dung-raw, fallen leaves, cheese, sawdust, humid, freshly adhesive grass.

Fresh sawdust, chips can be made like a mulching material under raspberries and other berries without adding nitrogen fertilizers.

Strawberries on the winter period can be stolen by a cheese, and in the summer it is used as a mulch. The needles is an excellent mulching material. And for strawberries, it is also the protection of slugs and snails.

11. Is it possible to plant fruit seedlings in place, where were the garden beds?

Can. The main thing is that the soil waters on the site for planting fruit crops are not too close to the surface of the soil. The minimum allowable depth is 1.5 m.

12. In the summer, the hurricane broke the apple tree. Is it possible to put this autumn in her place a new plant?

If the old apple tree was uprooted, it is not recommended to plant a new seedling into this place. No other place? Then before planting it is desirable to completely replace the soil in the volume of landing pit (at least 1 × 1 m).

13. How to fix a small or deep planting of trees?

Fruit trees, especially apple tree and pear, react sensitively to the landing depth. A small landing, when the root neck is located down a bit above the surface of the soil, they carry painfully, but it is easy to correct and does not cause much harm. In this case, the roots just planted wood can be sprinkled with soil from the aisle. In addition, after planting to the rolling circle of wood, manure, humus, and the rolling croups are mulched. And with autumn resistance, the soil is somewhat shifted towards the root neck.

It is more difficult to fix an excessive root of the root neck. This happens when when landing does not take into account the subsequent settlement of the soil in the landing pit. As a result, the root neck is significantly lower than the soil surface, which disrupts the relationship between the above-ground part of the plant and the root system. The tree seeks to compensate for this violation of excessive vegetative growth and significantly later enters into fruiting.

Thus, correct the error is better in the year of planting. To do this, cutting off the com, the tree pull up to the desired height so that the root neck is somewhat higher than the surface of the soil, under the bottom of the coma bent the nutrient soil. At the end of the work, the tree watered well.

14. Do I need to beat the winter just planted seedlings?

Young trees with smooth breed bark not only not useful, but to some extent it is even harmful. The whitewashed trees grow worse, they slowly thicken strains, closed pores in the cortex, gas exchange slows down. Lime solutions are particularly harmful to whitewashing adhesive (difficult) substances to them. In this case, the plants may even occur serious burns and kids.

On the other hand, the strains and the founding of the skeletal branches of fruiting trees need to be blocked by using a solution of fresh lime. Folds, cracks and roughness of the coastal bark of adult trees serve as a winter shelter for garden pests. Autumn (in October), the redcomers helps to destroy them and, besides, is a disinfectant, destroying mosses and lichens that are in the crust.

Recipes for preparing a solution of fresh lime: 2 kg of lime, 0.5 kg of copper mood and 2 tbsp. Milk dilute in 10 liters of water or 3 kg of lime and 1.5 kg clay dilute in the same amount of water.

And this processing protects the bark from solar burns and from temperature drops (the glasses acts as a kind of thermal insulation "fur coat", thanks to which the trunk of the tree does not overheat the winter day and does not freeze at night).

Buy healthy seedlings, transport them to a plot in a suitable package, plant cultures for all the rules and take care of them with the mind. Perhaps these are the main rules that will help grow a gorgeous and well-fruitful garden.

Autumn - it's time to plant fruit decorative trees and shrubs. Recently, buy seedlings are not difficult - there have been many enterprising people who are ready to sell them. The candidate of agricultural sciences Lyudmila Gavrikova is divided by his advice-reflections on the choice of seedlings. Out leaves You go to the train, especially closer to the weekend and on weekends, and you see the seedlings of fruit and ornamental plants everywhere. Almost all seedlings with leaves. And it is wrong. Previously, in the nurseries there was a mandatory rule - before digging the seedlings to remove leaves from them. As you know, the leaves evaporate the water entering the plant. The dug-off seedling stops the supply of water roots from the soil. Therefore, if it does not remove the leaves, evaporation of water from the leaves will continue, the seedling, especially its roots, will lose water, to be sued and little hope that such a seedling will come true. Therefore, buying a seedling, replanting the plant to a new place, be sure Remove the sheet. It is necessary to remove the leaves very carefully so as not to damage the kidneys located in the sinus (at the base). Sedo selection rules In a small village, all the qualities of the future adult trees are laid: speed growth, resistance to unfavorable conditions growth, yield, appearance And the taste of fruits, the durability of the tree and many other features. From a thin seed, do not wait for a kind tribe, says the Russian saying. So, do not wait for a healthy and durable tree and good fruits from him, if I planted a bad seedling. But often it happens. They purchased a seedlove, right and in time it was planted, lovingly cared for him. The years have passed worries and trouble-free labor, and the young tree suddenly frozen and even died. In another case, the seedlus endured the harsh winters, but when he joined the period of fruiting, it turned out that this is not the grade, the fruits of its low quality, and even completely inedible. The variety is the basis of gardening. So, first of all, the sapling must be reliably varieties. But this is still not enough. It is important to purchase a seedling from the nursery located in its area or region. For example, a sapling from the Krasnodar Territory in the conditions of the Moscow region does not promise to be stable, in a harsh winter he can extinze. Another seedling should look like this: the roots are fresh, unfulfilled, necessarily long - not shorter than 30 centimeters, branched. The longer the roots are more branched, the faster and better the seedling will come true and will grow further. On the cut roots have white color. Buuray, yellowed coloring of the root on the section indicates its frozen, drying or illness. If the roots are visible in bloating, the stuff, it means they are infected with zobodnia (root cancer) and not suitable for landing. There is a large value for a seedling (barrel). It should be straight, with healing wounds, healthy and smooth bark, without mechanical damage. The sort of crown is considered such that has at least three-four well-developed healthy branches, evenly placed in different directions, and necessarily direct leading escape (conductor) . Preferences of one-air Saplings older than two years always have demand, and seedlings are under two years old - very rarely. Based on what was the conviction? This is the result of the fact that fruit cultures begin to be fruit not the next year after landing, but only in a few years. Here are gardeners and try to cover years without harvest due to more adult planting material. After the age of apple tree seedlings, pears, plums, first of all, it is necessary to find out the reasons affecting the high survival rate of them in the garden. One of the main is the state of the root seedlock. The more its size, the seedling is better attached, the energetic and stronger the shoots will grow, the less time it will take that it takes place. If it is necessary to compare the root systems of one-stage and two-year-olds, dug out from the same nursery, the same plow , It is not difficult to see that the root systems in both are the same in size, but the two-year-old one has an overhead part than a single-air. Consequently, more and leaf kidneys, which in the process of growth require more nutrients. It is quite clear that the root system of an annual seedling every kidney supplies with nutrients more abundantly than a two-year seedling (not to mention more adult planting material). So, it turns out that the best survival rate is characteristic of a single-year-old, not a two-year-old seedlings of cherries and plums at this age have quite good branching and can easily form a good crown. Experiences show that the bone cultures to which the cherry and plum belong are better leaving in an annual age than in a two-year-old. Snapped alphawise have a smaller depression and better development than more adult plants. Now about the apple tree and pear. Here, the difficulty consists in one thing: nurseries, releasing two years, lay a certain form of the crown. For beginner gardeners to make the same formation at the single-stage seems to be a complex business, and therefore the desire of an amateur gardener to acquire a two-year seedling becomes understandable and justified. But those gardeners who know how to carry out a seedling, can without a doubt acquire a single-air. Moreover, nurseries grow the alphabet varieties, which in the garden do not give a noticeable difference in joining in the period of fruiting. Take care of rootsPretty frequent complaints of gardeners: "Saplot did not fit." In search of the reasons for this you come to the conclusion that even before landing in the garden, the main property is lost its basic property - vitality. Little to choose a good varietal seedling, it is still necessary to take care of the garden. Therefore, in nurseries, as a rule, leaves the seedlings in front of the seedlings, and the seedlings are cheered into the moistened soil in order to prevent their drying. The gardeners do not always take into account these conditions. You can often see how in the landing distance in the fall or spring, bought seedlings are delivered to the landing site: at best, the roots are wrapped with paper, or even just cable, branches are not connected. In such a state of the branch on the road are damaged. It is also: before delivering a seedling to the garden, it is kept for several days in a warm room without appropriate root care. How do they come with seedlings so that they are in good condition to be delivered to the garden? First of all, take care of the roots. They need to be lined with a moistened burlap, a rag, grass not only outside, but also inside, and then pack in any material. If the leaves remained on the saplings, they should be immediately cut into the branches, without damaging the kidneys on the branches, and the branches of the seedlings tightly tie twine in the beam, and even better braid. It is not bad and the entire seedling (stem, branches) to wrap at least paper. If the seedlings in delivery were dried, they should be lowered by roots into the water.

The dispute about when planting seedlings continues until now. Therefore, I think my considerations will not be superfluous for beginner dacnis.

Previously there was a network of public nurseries. They used well-deserved authority, as they served as the "guarantor" of the variety. They had instructions according to which saplings-ducts, for example, had to have a strab of at least 50 cm (the distance from the roots to the lower side branch), with a diameter of at least 3 cm and at least three side branches. When digging seedlings, their roots should be omitted to the clay boltushka and wrapped with a chore.

To dig seedlings for sale in the fall of nurseries were obliged after the leaves of the leaves. If the warm October stood and the leaves did not want to fly away, they should have been ochshed and removed from seedlings.

When the tractor, the roots of the plants sucked with a special bracket. After that, they were chosen from the soil manually and entered the "touch". They were planted and watered them again, only not at the distance from each other, but all together, a bunch associated with the varieties in the bundles. From there they went to the realization, and non-soldered remained in a touch until spring. In the spring, the saplings arrived again on sale, and if by the time they began to bloom the kidneys, they were not yet sold, then the remaining seedlings were burned.

Thus, the instruction implies that it is best to plant and transplant trees during the period of deep peace, but this is hampered by a freeze earth. However, experienced gardeners are left on the places to the future trees a heap of manure, removing which, even in winter in the non-surprise soil.

In plants, all nutrient elements are consumed by leaves. Now suppose that the plant died in the fall to the naturally discharge of the leaves. In the preliminary period, the leaves are rapidly produced by soluble sugar, which, entering the roots, stems and the bark is deposited in them already in the form of insoluble and neutral starch capable of resolving low temperatures in winter and insulation of plants.

Knowing about this property, you can easily determine the quality of the cuttings. To do this, it is necessary to drop on the bottom of the iodine solution. If the cutting surface is painted in blue, it means that the starch content is high, high-quality cuttings. If not, then plant such a plant is meaningless. He is not from what will form roots and dissolve the leaves in the spring.

In the fall, the leaves at the last moment form a layer of the nobody plug in the place of attachment to the stalk. And, naturally, falling out, leave behind the closed "window". All biochemical processes slow down sharply, and the plant proceeds to wintering.

Dropped with leaves in the fall of plants continue to "work", the reaction of biosynthesis goes, the leaves consume water. Very quickly, they suck it out of the roots, if they were omitted to the bolt, then from the stem cells. All this wrinkles and dry out.

Then dry and leaves. They are firmly attached to the stalk, so the cork layer is not formed. The kidneys in the sinuses of the leaves are underdeveloped, the starch in the core has accumulated little - such plants will be bad for the winter.

If the seedlings for transplanting are dug with leaves late in spring, then the processes in them proceed are the same as autumn only spring leaves synthesize the fiber to build young organs and water consumes in this period even more than in the fall.

If earlier nurseries were guided by a very reasonable instruction, then the current "businessmen" from gardening is exclusively profit. From here, their desire to dig a seedling for sale as early as possible to get ahead of competitors. Understanding their desire to sell seedlings in the spring as long as possible, not paying attention to the fact that they were blocked for a long time. It is advantageous to sell a sapling that does not come true: an illiterate gardener next season will come again for a new one.

If you still bought a seedling with leaves, it can still be fixed. In the fall, if the leaves have not yet dried, immediately wash them, spending along the stem with a hand from top to bottom. A seedling with dried leaves can also come in handy ... to dry the fire.