Proper installation of electrical outlets in the apartment. Installation of outlet in the apartment

High level comfort of modern man involves the use large number electrical appliances. Therefore, the installation of sockets in the bathroom is not a whim, but an important need.

The choice and installation of power points occurs according to the requirements of the regulatory documents and the rules of an intra-quarter or domestic power supply device. These provisions were studied by us and are set out in detail in the article.

We denote zones acceptable for mounting sockets, list the rules of the installation of the electrocable and give advice on the choice of electrical appliances. Proposed step-by-step instruction Installation will help to perform all the electromaging works on their own, not referring to the specialists.

In the houses of the old building, the sockets in the bathrooms are extremely rare. The reason for this is a compact placement of the room, the elementary absence of a free space on the walls and a weak total electrical circuit of the apartment.

In addition, until recent hours, it was believed that the electric goods in the bathrooms and toilets cannot be installed, so they endured out and mounted near the doors in the bathroom.

In modern housing, the situation is different: combined with the toilet and private bathrooms are distinguished by a large area, which allows you to freely place a washing machine in the inner space, a water heater, a dryer, an additional electric heater-towel rail, the "warm floor" system.

The daily use of the hair dryer, the electric shaver, the hair curling devices, etc. remain relevant.

Considering the number of devices, for which electricity is necessary, in the bathroom mounted block sockets or 2-3 separate points

To accurately find out how many outlets are necessary for the bathroom, you need to make a list of all devices and among them allocate those that are included in the network constantly.

Suppose in a large bathroom, a washing machine is often installed. Under it, it is usually allocated for a separate electric jacket or a cable connection is directly, using a terminal bar.

According to the rules, the electric fiber must be left, to the right or above the instrument, it is prohibited for the bulk unit. It is necessary to ensure easy access so that in the event of a product failure, it could be quickly and easily replaced or repaired.

Requirements for installation of power points

New modifications of electrical devices are designed to be operated in rooms with high humidity. But also to them, and enhanced outlets are presented. It is possible to clarify legal information in regulatory documents, for example, in GOST R 50571.11 (1996) and Pue (7.1).

What zones are suitable for installation

As you know, the combination of water and electricity in everyday life is very dangerous for a person. Therefore, the bathroom, where such contact is possible, it is customary to divide the zones. There are four of them - from 0 to 3.

Mounting boxes will be required - for the distribution of wires on the lines. If the bathroom will install 2 blocks of sockets, respectively, and 2 will be required.

With it, it is much easier to determine the purpose of each removal:

• phase – white color insulation;
• zero - blue, blue;
• ground - Yellow-green or green.

We screw the wires in the terminal and gently put them inside the box, trying not to overcene and do not proceed. Then we insert the housing and tighten the mounting screws. Last but we put on a decorative bar.

After installation, be sure to test - we supply the current on line and indicator screwdriver or multimeter check the voltage in the network. If everything is in order, finish the wall cladding or put in order a plot near the electricity.

The installation process of the outlet is much easier. It is usually installed with an outer wiring, that is, it is not necessary to stick the walls and mount the internal opposition. Before installation, the case is also sized and the wires are connected.

Before installing large and powerful equipment, it is necessary to think, and whether the socket is needed to connect. Suppose to work a boiler with a power of 3.5-5.5 kW operating in constant mode, it is better to use a non-conventional power outlet, but a direct connection with a separate machine.

To protect the electric goods from water from entering swimming, they can be placed in niches, for partitions and even in the cabinets

If the bathroom installed a sink with a tabletop, then you can consider an interesting and convenient solution with a hidden module. A block of sockets is hidden in the table, and only an element comes out, for which it can be easily obtained out.

The main advantage of the retractable module is one hundred percent protection against water, but under the condition of timely disguise.

A line that goes into the bathroom must necessarily equip the UZO, and each powerful device is a separate automatic protection. So, when breakdowns of one device, the rest of the lines will work as usual.

Remote and retractable "columns" and "books" are actively used in offices and in the kitchens, however, they are also suitable for equipping a bathroom.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

With what difficulties can be encountered when installing the electric boards in the bathroom and how to cope with them, you will learn from those represented by video.

Video with comments on the installation of sockets:

About nuances of working with tiles:

Professional installation of a block of sockets on a tile:

Installation of an overlaid outlet:

Electrical work requires definite skill and safety safety. However, the home masters easily cope with such events as replacing and installing sockets and switches.

If it still occurs difficulties or requires the work of increased complexity, it is better to turn to professional electricians.

Electrical points are called sockets, switches and junction boxes. They are nodes electrical network. From the type of wiring (or) depends on the type of points and the rules for their installation.

Installing outlets and switches with hidden wiring type

For a long period of time, the electric points were made like this: a more or less round hole was made in the wall, into which the metal box was inserted (and sometimes not inserted), then the block of the socket or switch was placed there, which was attached to the spacer foot or cement mortar. After that, all the cracks were embedded with the same solution.

This method hit the imagination by the life of its service, but, as a rule, change the outlet without a jackhammer did not work. To date, materials and technology of electrical work have changed. The device of electrical points begins simultaneously with the installation of the cable. While the markup of the lines of the wiring laying is made, there is also the location of the electrical points, because they serve as final cable lines or nodal stations, if it comes to junction boxes.

Example setting outlet

Installation of sockets

It begins, as mentioned above, with the markup of the situation. Right on the wall marked a point that shows the center of the socket. As a rule, it is located at an altitude of 25-30 cm from the floor.

The power socket with grounding should be located not closer to 50 cm from the electrical appliances and gas pipes.

If there are small children in the house, the connectors can be positioned above. In the kitchen, they are slightly above the table level. There are no strict rules here, but more aesthetically, when the sockets in the residential premises are located at one height. As soon as the location of the center of the connector is determined, you can draw the contour of the opening of the penetper. This is done like this: the installation box is taken, which will stand as a conversion, applied with a bottom to the wall and will be bored with a pencil. The contour is ready. Now you need to hollow the hole in the wall to put the box there.

Sulking the contour with a hole from the drill in the middle, the crown is removed to the side. Light blows hammer stone knocked out of the hole. It remains to focus the bottom of the deepening with the help of a chisel. Hole is ready for further work. You can extend the hole using a bora in concrete. On the perimeter, the contour is burned next to each other, and then the chisel is knocked out extra material. If there is no power tool at hand, you will have to cut down a hole in the wall with a chisel and hammer.

To install outlets, round installation boxes are most often used, but there are squares. In this case, the crown is not suitable, you will have to drill the hole with a perforator or, if a few sockets, cut off with a grinder. The easiest way to do this by a perforator, equipped with a special nozzle - diamond crown on concrete. Working with such a tool is a pleasure. Equipped with a drill that is located in the center of the nozzle. It is attached to the contour center, then a multiple trial inclusion of the perforator is planned. The drill is deepened into the wall and fixes the crown on the spot so that it does not move during work. The height of the crown is that it is deepening into the surface of the wall just at the depth of conversion.

The next stage is the installation of conversion. For monolithic walls there are special installation boxes. They are for both solitary installation and for connecting to groups: Special ears are located on the sides of this type of boxes. Stroke approaches the hole itself and deepened into it so that the cable is free to pass inside the recess. At the bottom of the box there are several holes covered with plastic hatches that are easily climbed. Cable veins are inserted into these holes.

To secure the peavering in the recess, construction gypsum or ordinary plaster is used. In some cases, gypsum glue adhesive for the connection strength. It is mixed to the consistency of softened plasticine. Then the peavercraft is held on the spot, and the slit between the edge of the hole and the box is embarrassed using a spatula.

A little waiting (approximately half an hour, if plaster is used - then 5-10 minutes), it is necessary to remove the excess mixture. After the mixture is finally dried, you can start the installation of the pad. So that the wire does not jump out of the box when connecting the pad, it holds the bracket or a clamp next to the box. With the ends, the insulation is removed at a distance of approximately 1-2 cm. If a multi-boiler lived, the bare conductor twisted into a dense harness.

On the block of sockets there are 2 contacts, if it is grounded, then 3. The phase and zero wire are connected to the other two, to the third contact - grounding. When the socket is properly installed, the contacts must be located at the bottom. Wires go up. Contacts may have a screw or spring clamp. The first kind of more reliable, the second requires less time for mounting. Then the excess the wires twisted into the spiral and hides on the bottom of the opposite, so as not to interfere with the installation.

The shoe is attached in two ways:

1. With the help of sliding legs: the installation is very simple - the shoe is inserted into the box and two screws on the sides, connected to movable paws with teeth, screw the screwdriver. When tightening the leg of the paws are spread to the sides and rest in the walls of the pickle, fixing the block in the box.

2. Common screws - along the edges of the conversion there are special holes that match the holes in the block. Screws are inserted into them, and the shoe is screwed to the box.

Setting the outlet is over, it remains only to attach a protective plastic case - and the outlet is ready to work. If the finish comes from zero, then after the peavern is installed on the spot, the block is not inserted into it, and the hole itself is filled with the crumpled newspaper paper so that the various construction trash does not fall.

In order to install several outlets in a row, there is a great way - this is the installation of a special box for 2 pads. The hole under such a box is brightdled with a diamond crown. The edges of the holes should come into contact, and the extra stone is littered with a chisel.

If the sockets need more than 2, then a group of conversion groups that can be attached to each other are used. Options here mass. Sockets can be located both vertically and horizontally.

Outlets can be installed "loop" or connect each to a separate line leading from the shield or distribution box. In the case of a "loop", the feed wires of the next socket are attached to the contacts of the previous one.

Installation of switches

Installing the switch to the smallest details repeats the setting of the socket. The difference is as follows: When installing the switch pad, you must ensure that the keys are located correctly, that is, when you turn on, the upper part must be pressed, and not lower.

In some types of switch, for example, on passing or dimmers, the contacts are noted to which the incoming wire is connected, and what is the outgoing. Of course, there is no ground wire on the switches, although it can be installed on the lamp.

In the assortment of goods to sockets and switches there are special frames. They may be single, two-, three-chain, etc. Frames are focused on electrical points and groups, giving the aesthetic appearance and switches.

Installation of distribution boxes

The size and configuration of the junction box depend on the number of wire connections and the conditions in which it is installed. The hidden sawn box is protected by itself, only the lid outside. It happens two types: with a protective gasket or without it. In the first case, the lid has a rubber ring, which seals its connection with the junction box. In the second, the lid is attached to screws or just snaps into the grooves.

When installing the cable in plastic pipes, regardless of the type of installation, the pipe should enter the box by 1-3 cm, not leaving the cable unprotected. This also applies to the installation boxes of conversion. If a small box, for drilling holes for it, you can use a diamond crown, just like to hollow out the recess under the outlet or switch. The diameter of the box in this case should not exceed 70-100 mm.

If the box is greater, with the help of the same crown, several recesses are drilled nearby, and then the hole is poured with a chisel. The depth of the excavation should be such that the closed box cover was on the same level with the surface of the wall.

The next edge of installation is an institution inside the box of all connected wires. At the bottom of the box or on the sides there are plastic hatches that are laid out as needed. The ends of the cables are archured into these holes. Then the wires are connected with each other using terminal blocks, caps, terminals, slits or twin manually.

Wires can be additionally wrapped with a tape. After that, the wires are twisted, hide in the box and closed with a lid. Then the box is inserted into the recess and fixed in it using plaster or plaster. In addition, almost all kinds of boxes can be attached using a dowel-nail or screws.

Installing outlets and switches in hollow partitions

Hidden wiring passes not only inside the monolithic walls, but also for plasterboard partitions and cladding, shields from plywood or fiberboard, plastic facing in general, for thin sheets of material, between which the wall is empty.

Installing sockets and switches in this case is somewhat different from the usual way. To do the holes for the installation boxes, do not apply a diamond crown, but a crown for plasterboard. It is easier to work with her than with a diamond. You can use a perforator, but a conventional drill. The holes in the material are done in advance, immediately after the sheets are mounted in place. The ends of the wires are tightened to the place where the holes will be; As soon as they are drilled, cables are outward.

The next stage is the installation of conversion. For hollow walls there are special boxes. For fastening them to the wall on the box there are special legs. You need to insert the box into the hole and pull out the wires in the bottom of the wire, and then spin the two screws on the sides of the screwdriver. The screws pull up the paws that rest in a sheet of material from the back side, fixing the peavernis on the spot.

After that, the socket is installed in the box. If the spread box attached to the main wall is not hiding behind the walls, then they join the material in the same way as the submersiones - with the help of presser foot.

Installing outlets and switches when the type of wiring is open

Installing outlets and switches with open wiring less consolidated, rather than in hidden. Do not be drilled in the walls of the hole for installation boxes and mess with a plastering mixture or plaster. For switches and outlets of an old type, before mounting them to the wall, you first need to install a dielectric stand on the surface. This is an ordinary flat wooden plate, which is attached to the wall of a screw or nail. When it is installed, electrical dispense is screwed to it.

Modern outlets and switches do not require such a stand. They can be mounted on the wall using dowel-nails or screws. For this, the device is disassembled, and the lower part (bottom) is screwed to the wall. Then the wires are connected to the block, it is attached on the bottom, and the entire design is covered with a plastic cover that is screwed by a screw. On many outlets and switches in the casing, special holes are cut, closed inserts in order to come there the cable channel or plastic trumpet. In the sockets with an increased degree of protection located in the bathroom, in the fields of the wire entrance to the housing there is a special rubber gland.

If the wiring is enclosed in the cable channel, the installation of electrical points is even easier. Some manufacturers of plastic boxes produce such a number of accessories to them that the installation of the electrical network resembles an assembly designer LEGO.. Special inserts on the surface of the cable channel for sockets and switches are called calipers. There are calipers for 1, 2, 5 and even 10 electrical points. In addition, there are landing boxes and modules and even distribution cuts. Of course, the Channel cable must be the appropriate width. Open-type junction boxes are easier than closed. They are attached to overlappings with the help of the most diverse fasteners: dowel-nails, screws and even ordinary nails.

Planning electrical wiring in the apartment at the repair stage - very important moment And it is necessary to relate to it with a large share of responsibility. Installation of outlets in the apartment - as part of the wiring - the most capricious and controversial part. Let's figure out in the subtleties.

What to use wiring

Almost all household appliances in the apartment are designed to be powered up to 5 amps, and they write on sockets that they are withstanding 16a. In fact, most quality sockets It will take a much greater current strength, but not in this essence. Wiring and circuit breakers for outlets should be selected according to the following principles:

• Cable cross section 2.5 mm;
• Automatic (switch) - 16 amps.

Useful advice: Do not attempt to save on wiring. Do not use aluminum wires. In modern repairs, this is a bad tone. Aluminum carries out electricity worse, heats up more, fragile and morally outdated.

Where to have

Location of outlets and switches

We wrote out the sockets in the kitchen and in the bathroom in some articles, we will talk about residential, and not only, premises. Here it is also important to comply with some principles:

1. Outlets are located at an altitude of 10-20 cm from the floor
2. When planning outlets, avoid use and even more so in one glass. We have already written about the shortcomings of these devices;
3. Place the sockets so that there is free access to them;
4. The socket in the window slope is placed at a height of at least 30 cm from the windowsill so that you can calmly use it next to the floral pot
5. Do not install the outlets in the cabinets and shelves! It is unsafe and very impractical. Furniture serves 5-10 years, wiring must serve 50!

Number of outlets on the apartment

Let's find together the required number of outlets for your apartment.

1. Socket for a vacuum cleaner - it should be near each door to the room
2. Parishion
   • WiFi router;
   • telephone apparatus;
   • signaling;
   • call;
   • +2 For other needs (Charging the phone, tablet, etc.)
3. Toilet - Even if you can not imagine electricity for anything, then put one outlet. Suddenly you want to there TV or electric air cleaner, humidifier, desiccant, etc. In general, one outlet in the toilet does not prevent
4. Bathroom. We are in more detail. It all depends on the technique that will be set:
   • Boiler;
   • Washer;
   • Warm floor;
   • Heated towel rail;
   • Air Dryer;
   • Jacuzzi.

   All this technique should eat from something, part of it (boiler, warm floors) are constantly connected, so such devices like:

   • Electric Shaver;
   • Depilatory;
   • Hydromassage bath;
   • Crying ...

   Extra sockets will be required

   In general, in the bathroom can not be less than 3 sockets

5. Bedroom. Each sleeping place must be equipped:
   • Lamp;
   • Socket for recharging phone;
   • Socket for connecting a tablet or laptop;
   • Reserve.
6. Workplace. Without a computer, it's not to do here, which means there should be a lot of sockets:
   • System unit;
   • Monitor;
   • Active columns;
   • Printer;
   • Scanner;
   • Router;
   • Charging for the phone;
   • Charging for the tablet;
   • Table lamp;
   • +2 Additional outlets;

   Believe me, this amount will not be redundant. It is better to do everything neatly at the planning stage than to add missing electric flogs with network filters

7. Multimedia. Televisions and audio systems different people They have in different rooms and there may be several of them, so it is better to decide in advance where you want to see the multimedia systems and arrange the sockets under:
   • Television;
   • Player;
   • Amplifier;
   • Columns;
   • Additional router

   In one block with 220 volts, the antenna, network sockets, as well as a rosette for audio systems, are usually mounted

8. Kitchen. Perhaps the most "rosette" room. It can be from 10 to 30 outlets depending on the size and technical equipment. We described this in more detail in the article.
9. Loggia, balcony. If they are glazed, then there must be installed at least one outlet, if there is no glazing and not planned - it is desirable to install.

How to connect to the shield

Several principles that will not get confused

1. All sockets in the same room are connected to the shield under one circuit breaker, a nominal value of 16 amps;
2. Under this switch do not fall conditioners and lighting
3. Under the water heater, the cooking panel, the electrophum is displayed separate sockets with separate automatic machines for 25 amps. These are not common sockets!
4. For outlets in the bathroom, it should be installed so that you do not hit the current during the Flood in the neighbors from above;
5. Sockets and switches on the loggia and the balcony can be combined under one automatic (separately loggia, separate balcony). All other sockets must be separate from lighting so that you do not turn off the light when short closure In the outlet

What types to use

When planning electricians in the apartment should use such principles:

What firms to buy

Confidence is caused only by European and American manufacturers of electrical appliances. In order not to make wiring more expensive, do not choose the sockets of Chinese firms, such as Makel, Viko, Lezard, as well as all Russian manufacturers. In fact, in the Russian Federation, they are only going, and all components (lowest quality) are supplied from the same China.

1. The method of fastening the wire - the eventless, i.e. The wire should be simply inserted there;
2. The housing and mechanism of the socket are not lit or do not support burning. In more detail in the article about;
3. Contacts The sockets are made of copper, bronze or brass - is checked with a magnet.
4. The mechanism of the socket reliably holds both evrovilk (with thick pins of contacts) and thin from charging.

Comments:

Related records

How to choose the power machine for the apartment for the apartment Installation of a triple outlet with your own hands. How to carry out work.

If the installation of the socket was made poorly, then over time it will start just falling out of the wall after the plug, which is pulled out of it. Before fixing the outlet again, it is necessary to understand why it does not occur at all so as not to do the same work several times.

What could be errors when installing sockets

To understand how to fix the drop-down outlet, you must first pay attention, it hangs on my own or together with the opposite. These are two different faults and eliminate them every way every way.

A properly installed socket is mounted according to a specific technology and if one of the steps make it incorrectly or take unsuitable materials, it may soon be that the work must be redoing.

Errors can be at the following installation stages:

• A hole is drilled in the wall, which should be slightly larger than the outer diameter of the conversion - in order for the mason or cement between them. There are cases when the peavern goes into the wall closely and the impression was created that he was silent there. Further installation was performed, but after a while the whole design took out from the wall, because all the clutch was kept at several points.
• The inner surface of the hole is covered with a grinding and peavernis is inserted into it. If there are few putty, it is not laid around the entire area of \u200b\u200bcontact or a bad solution is prepared, then the fastening will be folded.
• Installation of indoor outlet. This design is kept inside due to sliding mustache, which are pressed by bolts. Accordingly, if the bolts or fasteners are poorly spinning, they slide along the inner surface of the opposition, then the entire socket will soon begin to hang out and falls out.
• Installation of the outer, visible part of the socket. Most often, this stage of installation can not affect its falling out in the future, but sometimes it happens that the inner part is installed not flush to the wall, but a little deeper. In this case, when the fastening bolts are twisted, the inner part moves in the submersing agent or shifts it itself.

An example of the correct installation of conversion in this video:

But here we look at how to install sockets in the opposite:

When the inner outlet of the wall falls out, the main reason is visible immediately - dropping out the conversion or poor engagement of the fastening mustache. In both cases, there are nuances that need to be considered when troubleshooting.

If the wall does not hold the penetper

In this case, the repair method is chosen depending on which the penetper is installed and from which the wall.

If the peavern was not "planted" to the solution, then the size of the opening in the wall "backdrop" and it must be slightly expanded to be where to smell a mixture of plaster or cement. Next, it is necessary to inspect the peavernik himself - in modern models there are slots to make the cable. They are located throughout the area, and if the putty is a little in them, it will be an additional fastening. If the peavern is smooth, then we can make notches on its outer side, for which the solution will be grabbed.

In extreme cases, if there is no necessary materials at hand, but it is desirable to fix the socket, you can simply screw the peaver to the wall with screws. The nuance is here only one - the holes for the dowels drill from the angle and to start their necosok, so as not to be loosened over time.

In some cases, you can try to consolidate the falling conversion on liquid nails, as shown in the following video:

When the pickle is not at all

Rarely, but it happens and that - the socket is chatting, and when they discern it, it turns out that it simply rests on to the spacer beaches in the wall, well if concrete.

The correct solution of the problem is only one thing - to establish the conversion, since the steel mustache will overreach even the most durable concrete and the outlet will fall out.

If there is no other choice, except to fix the outlet in the wall (there is no approach and buy it now), then you can make a homemade fastening for the outlet. To do this, it will take to make choppers: from dense linoleum, emery paper or a pair of pieces of a wooden board - preferably not overwhelmed so as not to split when tightening fastening bolts.

• You need to try in which place the walls are resting in the wall and carefully hollow there small recesses.
• Cooks cut into the size of the pumps received. If it is a linoleum or stack, then it is desirable to turn them twice as a smooth side inward, so that the roughness concerns the wall and fastening mustache. The tree is simply attached to the desired form - unlike classic choppers, which are made cylindrical, these should be made rectangular.
• Further, the choppers are inserted into the mounts, the socket is supplied to them and the bolts are tightened, which cut the fasteners.

This method may be valid even for walls not from the most solid material, such as a saman brick, but if possible, it is still recommended to make the right mount using the applied.

What to do when the socket itself is dropped

There may be two main reasons - an insufficient port of fastening detergents and a smooth inner part of the peavercraft, according to which the attachments simply slip.

In the first case, the fasteners simply do not get to the walls of the peavern, or the pressed force is not enough for confident retention of the whole design. This can occur due to wear of fasteners or inconsistencies of models when the socket itself is less than peaver.

fasteners (foot) sockets

If the outlet is still fixed in the submerged, but then it is pulled out of it with the plug, which means it lacks a very little pressed force. Here it will be enough to simply adjust the fastening detergents - in shape they resemble the letter "g", but with a slightly bent up the upper part. If it begs it a little more, then the pressed force will increase. To do this, you need to unscrew the adjusting bolt, this item itself will fall out of the outlet and can be tentate it with pliers. Then everything can be installed in the reverse order. For a guaranteed result in the place where fasteners will be dried, you can make a few notches - a knife or soldering iron.

When the peasant himself, even well-fixed in the wall, is much more outlet, then it is necessary to change it completely or again to make choppers and make notches from the inside.

There are also cases when the surface of the opposition at the point of contact with spacers is simply slug. An effective solution method is the extraction of peasant and the subsequent installation, but at an angle of 90 ° from the initial position. It is even easier to turn the socket itself - double and triple are often installed - in a horizontal position.

Before deciding what to do if the socket falls out of the conversion, it is necessary to inspect the case of the latter - in modern models there are fastening bolts that are just screwed to their housing.

Differences between old and new sockets

euro plug (left) has thicker pins, and socket tightly pressing contacts

The switches installed in the wall are attached to the same principle, but they fall much less frequently. The reason is simple - when turning on and off, the force is always applied in the direction of the wall. In the outlets, everything is different - when the plug in them is inserted, the force is directed towards the wall, and when removed, then back.

In old sockets, this problem was not so acute, because they were designed for devices with much less power consumption. This automatically meant, the lack of strict requirements for pressing the contacts - the plugs were inserted and removed from the outlets with a much smaller force - since that time, the habit of many users pull the plug for the cord. Removing the plug is thus prohibited now and was not allowed earlier, but with the old rosettes of the strength of the strength, therefore, it is often about such requirements simply not pay attention.

In modern sockets, spring-loaded contacts are used, which are very tightly pressed against the current parts of the plugs. Even the socket installed in all the rules will be gradually separated, therefore it is recommended to hold it with hand at any case when removing the fork.

Installation of an electrical outlet is one of the most common household engagement with electricity. Therefore, it is important to learn how to do this work independently, especially since the level of knowledge required to perform this work does not exceed the level of knowledge of physics class 9, also this work does not require special physical efforts and the presence of complex tools. In this article, we will consider in detail how to perform the right setting of sockets with your own hands.

Preparation for work

Determine the choice of type of socket

There is a huge variety electric socketsdiffering in designation by type of construction, by the installation method and the availability of additional functions. In this case, we will consider the sockets used in Russia and the currently designed for voltage 220 V.

Depending on the species, the method of mounting outlets is different.

• Society Soviet Sample, without grounding. This type of socket is designed for electrical appliances whose housing is not required to ground. The main drawback, in addition to the lack of grounding, is that the plugs of modern electrical appliances are simply not included in the sockets connectors due to the difference in diameters and the presence of side protrusions. Therefore, only the electrical appliances of the old sample or low power can be connected to this socket with the corresponding type of fork.
• "Euror dress" with grounding. Suitable for all modern electrical appliances. Main advantages: dense contact, there is an additional contact for connecting a grounding wire, which is very important to exclude the risk of electric shock for electrical appliances such as, for example, washer, refrigerator, electric stove, water boiler.
• Socket for electric stove. As the name follows, this type of socket is set to connect the electric stove. This is a power outlet that can withstand the connected power up to 7 kW and more.
• Internal socket. It is installed in a special box installed in the recess in the wall. Applied with hidden wiring.
• Outdoor (invoice) socket. It is used mainly in rooms with outdoor wiring.

Select connection scheme

In the event that it is not about replacing the old outlet, and about installing a new one, it is necessary to choose the optimal connection scheme.

There are the following schemes:

• Parallel connection. With such a scheme, each socket is a separate wire from the junction box. It is used to connect electrical appliances with high power.
• Sequential connection. All sockets are connected to each other to one wire. Preferably when connected to these sockets of low-power devices.
• Mixed connection when using both diagrams at the same time (some sockets are connected sequentially, some - in parallel).

Turning off electricity

Before starting any electrical installation, including the installation of the socket, it is necessary to turn off the power supply by unscrewing the plugs / shutdown of the automata and make sure the indicator screwdriver in the absence of voltage.

Required tools

You will need:

• passatia;
• voltage indicator;
• screwdriver;
• construction knife.

Installing and connecting outdoor outlet without grounding

This type of sockets is installed if:

• Wiring in the house is laid over the walls.
• Wiring in the house is internal, but the installation of a new outlet is required, for which there is no desire to break through, and then re-align the wall. It is easier from the nearest outlet or from the junction box to stretch the wire in the cable channel.
• When installing the socket in the utility rooms.

Operating procedure:

1. To gain access to contacts, it must be disassembled by unscrewing the bolt fixing the body to the base.
2. In the outlet there are two contacts to which the phase and zero wire must be brought. For this, stripped ends of the wires should be started in special connectors and tighten with bolts. Polarity in this case does not matter.
3. Next attach the base of the outlet to the wall. If the wall is not concrete, then you can put on the self-tapping screw. On a concrete or brick wall, after placing the place of attachment, drill holes and score dowels.
4. Before installing the housing of the socket on the base, with the help of a construction knife to cut on the existing markup of the opening to pass the wire.
5. Prepared body put on the lid, spin the fastening bolt.

When connecting the wires to the socket contacts, you need to tighten the bolts tightly. A loose fit of the conductors to each other causes the oxidation of contacts, as a result of which they increase their heating and acceleration of oxidation.

This problem can further lead to a malfunction of wiring, there are cases of fire occurrence due to overheated wiring.

Installing and connecting an outdoor rosette with grounding

By appearance Outlets can be determined, with a ground it or not. The presence in the outlet of metal protruding contacts on both sides allows you to connect it to a three-core wiring with a ground.

Operating procedure:

1. Clean the ends of the wiring of the home wiring at the place of installation of the socket.
2. By revealing the fastening bolt, disassemble the outlet.
3. Terminal button socket contains three contacts. Connect the phase and zero wire to the side contacts, the polarity does not matter, and the ground wire (yellow-green) is to the central contact.
4. Tightly tightening the contacts connected to the terminal block to attach to the wall using the self-tapping screw or dowel (on the concrete wall).
5. Cut in the housing opening in the marked place to pass the wire using the knife or nippers for this. Install the housing of the socket on the terminal block, tighten the bolt.

Installing and connecting an internal outlet

Installation of the inner socket is significantly different from the installation of the outdoor socket, is used with hidden (internal) location of the domestic wiring. In this case, a special installation box for socket is used. Boxes are manufactured in various modifications depending on the material of the wall where the box is mounted.

Operating procedure:

1. At the output of the electrical wiring to make a niche - a deepening in the wall for the box.
2. Install the box in the niche, bring the wires into it with a good stock, fasten the box with alabaster or other similar solid. If the box is mounted in drywall, then the box "with ears" is used, which when screwing the screws tightly press the box to plasterboard.
3. To eliminate sharp drives of wires, fasten them in a box in the form of a snake.
4. Remove the top cover of the socket.
5. Clearing the ends of the wires located in the box, spend them in the socket sockets, tighten the mounting bolts. The stronger the bolts are tightened, the more reliable.
6. Fasten the housing of the socket in the installation box with screws.
7. Install the top cover of the socket.

Double socket connection

In modern household electrical appliances, it becomes more and more, respectively, a larger number of outlets are required. Installing additional outlets is a rather time-consuming occupation, especially if the inner wiring, so a good outlet is the replacement of a single socket to double.

It should be remembered that the bandwidth remains the same, that is, it is not calculated for the simultaneous connection of powerful electrical appliances.

Mounting a double outlet is similar to the installation of the usual, single, socket. After all, in fact, this is the same: one terminal box is actually connected to which two connected sockets are connected.

Proper installation of sockets for electric stove

The appearance of a new plate in the kitchen is necessarily accompanied by the work on its connection. Despite the seeming complexity, it is possible, without causing an electrician, do everything with your own hands.

The difference between the power outlet for the electric stove from the usual is that it is able to withstand a fairly large connected power. In modern electrolytes, the capacity is up to 8 kW. Ordinary outlets are not calculated and can melt.

Installation of sockets for the electric stove implies certain preparatory activities:

• For powering the electric stoves, it is recommended that the presence of a separate line of nutrition departing from the machine to 25a. Wiring can be made of copper wire With a cross section of at least 4 sq. mm.
• If a separate line is not displayed on the electric furnace, the power supply from the total home network is possible from automata in 40a, but it should be borne in mind that while inclusive with an electric stove of other electrical appliances with high power consumed, automata shutdown.

The selection of the socket model depends on the following parameters:

• Power electric stove. The most common sockets for the electric stove are calculated for the current current 40a and 63a are used when connecting the plates with a capacity of up to 7 kW and more than 7 kW, respectively.
• Number of phases. The electroplit feature is such that they can be connected both to one-phase and three-phase line. In this case, we consider the connection of the electric stove to one-phase wiring, as in the apartments and most private houses there are no power input.
• Method of installation. Sockets can be both internal and outdoor installation. The selection depends on the method of laying a home wiring.
• The presence of ground. In modern urban apartments there is a grounding, so the choice is unequivocal. In the apartments of the old building and private houses, if there is no grounding, we strongly recommend it and install it with a grounding, because due to high power, the presence of a metal case and a large area, the stove is an object of increased danger.

The algorithm for installing an external or internal socket for connecting the electric stove in the kitchen is similar to the installation of conventional sockets of a similar type of installation. The main difference in the connection scheme.

Operating procedure:

1. Get acquainted with the connection scheme shown in the technical passport to the electric stove.
2. Disable power supply. Prepare a connection location. To do this, secure the installation box for the inner socket, clean the wires.
3. Conduct the wires to the installation box and connect the socket so that a grounding wire is connected to the upper socket connector. Two lower connections - for phase and zero wires, the polarity does not play the role. Tightening the bolts, fasten the housing of the socket with plaster or similar mortar. Install the lid.
4. Connect the electric stove cord, which is a three-core cable with a cross section depending on the rated current of the automaton. The cord of the electric stove in many models often has to be bought separately and independently connect. On the rear panel of the electric stove indicated the connection diagram of the cable (cord) to the terminal block. Unlike conventional electrical appliances in the terminal block of electric stoves there are six terminals. The manufacturer is usually installed in advance jumpers for connecting to a network with a voltage of 220 V.
5. Attach the plug to the cable. Phase, zero and grounding wires in such a way that the plugs and the corresponding connectors in the outlet coincide in polarity.
6. Turning on the plug into the socket, check the performance of the plate.

Rules location sockets in the kitchen

Electrical outlets are present in any room at home, apartments. However, the majority of household electrical appliances are located in the kitchen, with those that constantly be included in the network, such as a refrigerator, electric stove, kettle and others. Therefore, there are certain rules for installing outlets in the kitchen:

1. Do not install the outlets near the washing and gas stove.
2. Since the kitchen is often a zone of high humidity, it is important to ensure water resistance of electrical wiring and contacts.
3. During electrical work, do not intervene in the plumbing, gas pipeline, ventilation.
4. To protect the sockets located near the working surface of the kitchen furniture, the sockets with special lids can be installed from entering the water and other liquids.
5. For the electric stove it is necessary to provide a separate machine in the electrical protection.

Safety regulations

Installation of sockets, as well as any type of electrical work, requires strict compliance with safety regulations:

1. Before starting work, it is necessary to turn off the electricity by turning off the machine / unscrew the plug in the electrical protection and make sure that there is no voltage using the indicator.
2. Take measures to eliminate power supply: to warn households, install a warning sign on the landing site.
3. Check the health of the tools used, pay special attention to the integrity of isolation.

After reviewing the main stages and the intricacies of the installation of the socket, you can do this with your own hands, which seemed earlier incredibly difficult, work. After all, everything is happening for the first time, and the experienced electricians once also made their first steps in the development of these skills.