The stairs to the second floor are climbing. How to get to the roof? Step-by-step instruction! Photo instruction for creating a staircase made of wood

26.10.2020

You can get to the tower of insolence from Aden, head to the clearing in front of the tower. We go up to the fifth floor, bypassing the mobs, for this we go from the TP to the tower and run to the left in a circle, at the next entrance there will be a staircase on the left, along it we go up, and so on until the fifth.
If you are a nobless, it's easier for you - there is a noble tp from Aden on the 1st, 3rd, 5th, 7th, 10th and 13th floors.
There should also be seven seals of TP in the week of victory from the wearer on the same floors as those of the nobles, but this may not be implemented on your server.
You can also knock out Dimensional Stone items from the mobs in the LOA or in the TOI itself, with their help you can tpsh through the floors of the TOI from the vortexes that stand on the stairs:
Green Dimensional Stone - TP from the first to the third floors.
Blue dimensional stone - TP from the fourth to the sixth floors.
Red dimensional stone - TP from the seventh to the tenth floors.
It is convenient to knock out a red stone, use it to place the summoner on the 10th floor, and, if necessary, summon enchantments there.

What may interest us on the POI floors:
1st and 2nd floors - mobs with a skill, on the second floor there is a mob with a drop of the Chant of Revenge amulet for cooking, if you immediately rush into a crowd of mobs, they will surely cancel out, I took TX with me, he pulled the desired mob under stealth while I beat him, he pulled the next one, for a buff 2-3 amulets fell, for x10 he sold them for 50kk.
3rd floor - drop of reagents for the quest, including moonstone shards, as well as scrolls with POI blueprints.
5th floor - drop of reagents for the quest, including fornication demons and moonstone shards, as well as scrolls with TOI blueprints. Mobs hang paralysis, you need an enchant with the Purify skill to remove paralysis.
6th floor - evil archers. Drop from them, spoil and drop of kei and B grade gear.
7th floor - mobs for painting the first rag on the baum (only on this floor), drop of reagents for the quest, including fornication of root, as well as scrolls with POI blueprints. Drop tallum heavy body, and ends on these sets. Shamans hang up paralysis.
8th floor - Everything is dropped as on the 7th floor.
10th floor - Drop DK and tallum hats. Spoil keev on DK robes, funny quality and manor on mobs x5.
11th floor - reagents for the quest, here it seems to me fornication rues fall out more often. Drop hats, like on the 10th floor.

Quests:

There are three main quests due to which they visit the TOI: a quest for reagents to obtain a subclass and nobility, and the quest itself for a subclass, part of which is done at the TOI.

Quest for reagents - taken from Wesley in the basement of Ivory Tower, according to this quest we are interested in four floors - 3, 5, 7 and 11. They say that some people prefer to beat the moonstone shards on the third floor, hmm, I personally beat the moonstones in blesin swamp, in POI I prefer to get reagents that cannot be obtained anywhere else, namely: demon fornication on the 5th floor from small red mobs, they fall 3 pieces each, 100 items for preparing demonic essence (ingredient for hellfire oil) are packed quickly; fornication of the root on the 7th and 11th floors from shamans (here you have to sweat, since fornication of the root falls very rarely). When you fill up the 500 moonshards, 100 fornication demons and 10 fornication needed for the Nobless quest, you will have an abundance of all the other ingredients for making lunargent and helfire oil.

Quest for the subclass - in the TOI, according to this quest, you need to kill three RBs - on the 3rd, 8th and 11th floors, paint a rag on the 7th floor, and finally prick Baium. They will summon you to the third floor (well, or run up the stairs with your legs), the room with the RB on the right side after the corridor, the door can be closed, you have to wait until it opens (this is quick). If summon is prohibited on the 8th floor (on some servers they do this), please add up to 7 (since nobles-summoners can quickly get there), enter the central round room and run to the right to the nearest exit, go up to the 8th floor. As soon as you enter the first room with mobs, keep to the left wall all the time, this is the shortest way to the room with RB, the door can also be closed. On the 11th floor, the summon can also be prohibited, ask to add up to 10, we go from the stairs to the floor and run to the right from the entrance, we reach the fallen columns, there will be an entrance to the room, we pass through the room to the right and go up to the 11th floor. The room with RB is immediately on the right side, there is no door at all. There was a case when an acquaintance, getting used to the opening doors on the 3rd and 8th floors, entered the back room on the 11th floor, where there was not Golconda, but Shuriel, and waited for RB for the sub).

Attention! On Freya, an alternative passage for the subclass quest was introduced - when on the quest you are sent to the Harding Academy, do not select the item with Baium, but select the item with 30 rags, then you will be sent to paint rags on angels, and you will not have to stab Bayum.

In addition to the RBs already listed above (on the third floor, on the eighth, on the eleventh in the first room, on the eleventh in the back room with a closing door and), there are several more in the TOI - between the 1st and 2nd floors level 65, between the 3rd and 4th floors 71 level, on the 6th floor in the first room from the descent from the 7th floor level 70 and on the 13th floor level 79.
For a detailed road to each of the RB, see the links above.
Do not forget that Shuriel's minions cast a reflex damage on the boss.

And now a detailed path through all floors of the TOI:

Turn left at the entrance to the tower:

We reach the next entrance:

And we go up the stairs to the so-called technical floor (between the first and second floors)

We run along it from the left side to the exit to the stairs

And we see the first of the dimensional vortexes, with which you can teleport across floors

Thus, you can climb the stairs, bypassing the mobs, to the fifth floor, if you want to look into the room to the RB on the third, then we run to the floor and from the entrance to the central room on the right there is an entrance to the room with the raid boss:

But we need something higher than the fifth, so we still reach the fifth floor, from the entrance we go to the only entrance to the right, and after killing the mobs we go into the central room (turn left):

In the central room of the fifth floor we go out through the door, which can be seen in the distance to the left behind the column:

And through the corridor with mobs we go first to the right, and then to the left to the stairs to the sixth floor:

On the sixth floor, in the first room with mobs, go left into the next empty room and go through it:

And in the next room with mobs we turn right:

We pass this room straight and in the next we turn left:

And we see either a room with a raid boss or an empty one if the RB has already been killed, in any case we move to the 7th floor by the stairs:

On the seventh floor, as soon as we enter the central room with mobs, we run to the exit on the right side and along the corridor we go to the stairs to the eighth floor:

On the eighth from the entrance, we turn to the right, we run to the first room with mobs and go strictly along the left wall, through three rooms we see the entrance to the room with RB on the left:

And on the right is a break in the wall and through an empty corridor to the right, an exit to the stairs to the ninth floor:

On the ninth, we go into the large central room with mobs, go out to the right exit (marked with an arrow on the screen), and to the right through two empty corridors to the stairs to the tenth floor:

On the tenth from the entrance, we turn right, we run to the columns, and behind the columns we enter the room on the left, from it to the right exit and to the right to the stairs to the eleventh floor:

Eleventh floor: on the right is the entrance to the room to RB Golconda, in the far left is the entrance to the room with RB Shuriel, right and to the right is the exit to the twelfth floor:

We run out from the eleventh floor to the right along the ramp, we rise to the entrance to the twelfth floor, turn right from the entrance and run along the corridor until the entrance to the central room appears on the left:

From the central room we pass into the right door, then to the right through the gap and to the stairs to the thirteenth floor:

And here it is, the long-awaited thirteenth floor - right up the stairs to the Republic of Galaxia, up the stairs and to the left along the other stairs to the vortex, through which you can go to Baium:

If you are confused and do not remember which floor you are on now, open the map, below it will be written the TOI floor.

Recently, the construction of a country house is very often not limited to one floor. In order to expand the space, a second is being erected, or it is insulated and brought into a state of the attic suitable for comfortable living. This means that you cannot do without a staircase in the interior of the first floor.

A staircase to the second floor with your own hands may well be assembled from a ready-made kit, which can be purchased from companies that are specialized in the development and manufacture of this interior functional element. In the proposed catalogs, you can choose a ladder that will perfectly fit into the environment of both floors, and will be comfortable and safe for all family members to climb and descend.

You can try and build a staircase yourself, but in this case it is necessary to do it, since with an ill-conceived design, an element of the house familiar to everyone may well become a traumatic “simulator”.

In addition, you need to decide what role the staircase will play in the interior. It can be completely invisible, and not be a decorative decoration of the room, but can become the center of the composition, around which it will build all the decoration of the room.

Therefore, in order to choose a suitable copy, it is better though would schematically draw the stairs that you wanted would see in your home, but you can find a ready-made version and adapt it for a specific room.

Before choosing a stair model, you must definitely find out how it works and how to calculate its correct parameters.

The main components of the stairs

The staircase design has many components, some of them are mandatory, while others may not be included in the devices of some types of this structure.

So, a staircase cannot do without steps and supports that support them - these are the main elements of the simplest structures of interfloor stairs.

The step itself consists of two parts - vertical and horizontal. The first one is called the riser, and the second is the step. The riser is a support for the step, but sometimes they do without it.
Supports can be of two types:

- a bowstring is a beam that supports the steps from their ends;

- kosour - a beam supporting the steps from below.

Railing is also an important element of the staircase, although it is not present in all its types. But if there are children or elderly people in the house, then you cannot do without them.
Balusters are vertically installed supports for handrails, which most often become not only a functional part of the staircase, but also its decorative decoration. This element can be made from different materials and have different shapes.

Since there are different types of stairs, each of them may have the details that are needed specifically for a particular design.

Rack - this element is used to construct a spiral staircase. Steps of a special shape are fixed on the rack with a certain step, which form a spiral that rises from the first to the second floor.

Bolts are special bolts, which are also elements supporting the steps; they are attached to the wall and directly onto the steps themselves. They are not used for all, but only for certain types of stairs.

Types of stairs

Having learned what elements the stairs consist of, you need to understand in more detail how each of the types of these structures looks, installed between floors.

Marching stairs

This type of staircase is popular for any type of private house. It consists of one or more straight flights, equipped with evenly spaced steps. It is convenient to climb and descend along it, but the disadvantage of this model is that it requires a lot of space in the room.

The most common are marching stairs

If the staircase consists of several flights, then each of them must have at least 3 ÷ 4 and no more than 15 steps. Failure to comply with this standard may result in uncomfortable climbing stairs. Usually the number of steps in each march is 8 ÷ 11 pieces, and special platforms are installed between the marches. Their sizes are multiples of the average stride length.

quarter turn - the angle of which when turning is 90 degrees, and they are arranged mainly at the junction of two walls;
half-turn - their rotation has an angle of 180 degrees;
circular patterns - marches sequentially form a 360-degree turn.

Spiral interfloor staircase

This design is more difficult to install, but has the advantage that it takes up the smallest floor space available, making it ideal for small spaces. In addition, such a staircase can be installed in any convenient place in the room and, if desired, make it the center of the interior composition, since the structure has a rather aesthetic appearance.

Spiral staircase - saves space, but not always convenient for carrying bulky items

They can be of different types, but for a two-story house, a model consisting of a rack and wedge-shaped steps is best suited. For the rack, choose a metal pipe or a wooden support.

The rack itself is fixed to the ground floor floor and in the interfloor or attic floor.
The steps are fixed on it with the narrow side and rotated so that the overall structure resembles a spiral.
Balusters are installed on the wide side of the steps, the upper part of which is fixed in the handrail, repeating the spiral direction of the entire structure.

Inconvenient in such a model is the fact that it will be difficult to raise or pull down down some massive piece of furniture. In addition, when choosing such a model for installation, you need to know that the smaller the opening in the interfloor for it, the steeper and more inconvenient the staircase will be.

It is not difficult to calculate the screw structure. For this, the area in the room where it will be installed is determined, its center is calculated - this will be the place where the rack will be installed. Further, the distance from the post to the border is measured - this will be the width of the span, i.e. length of steps.

For comfortable walking on such a staircase, the size of the middle of the step should be at least 200 mm, and the widest part should be no more than 400 ÷ 420 mm.

Such a structure can be made and assembled independently, if you have the skills to work with wood, and the ability to calculate the load on the selected material. However, if you are not confident in your abilities, then it is better to entrust the work to a specialist, since an incorrectly arranged structure is very traumatic.

Video - Installation of a spiral staircase

Curved stairs

Circular and spiral models do not have a central vertical support, which is the center of the circle in the section of spiral staircases. They rise up along a curved smooth line, which can be of a very different configuration.

Like screw, they take up less space than designs with straight flights and intermediate platforms, but at the same time they lose some in convenience and safety. In addition, they are more difficult to design, manufacture, and install fences and railings.

Stairs

The name of these ladders on the bolts comes from the German word "volzen", which means a bolt.

Such stairs cannot be attributed to a separate type, since they can be not only marching, but also spiral or curvilinear, and differ from them only in the way of mounting steps and the absence of stationary supports, which makes them seem to be hanging in the air. This impression is enhanced by the lack of risers.

The steps of the structure are fixed in the wall with one side using cylindrical bolts, so the wall must be strong, built of rigid and reliable materials without internal voids. The outer sides of the steps are connected to each other by vertical elements that can be located only between the steps or act as fences.

Bolt-stairs, as well as modular prefabricated structures, are manufactured at the factory. They can be easily and accurately adjusted to the required dimensions and can be installed in any premises.

Video - Installation of a wooden staircase on the bolts

Design of interfloor stairs

When designing an interfloor staircase, first of all, they mean the safety of the structure and the comfort of its operation. This means that when walking up the steps, minimal physical effort should be expended, and the walking person should use comfortable and familiar postures and movements for this: he did not change the length of his stride, did not raise his legs too high, and did not bend his back.

Council. To get a comfortable and safe staircase, it is desirable to design it simultaneously with the design of the house. This will allow you to correlate its size and position with walls, partitions, floor beams and other structural elements of the building.

How to determine the size of the stairs

Standards will help you choose the optimal dimensions for all stair elements.

The slope of the structure should be in the range of 30 to 45 degrees - these are the parameters that guarantee safety and a comfortable leg lift. Ideal values \u200b\u200bare 36-40 degrees, as flatter structures take up a lot of space, and those that are steeper make it difficult to descend.
The width of the tread (b) and the height of the riser (a) are selected in accordance with the average length of a human step according to the formula: b + 2a \u003d 60-64 cm. In this case, the tread should not be already 20 cm, and the riser should be higher than the same 20 cm. Optimal values \u200b\u200bfor a \u003d 24-32 cm, for b \u003d 14-18 cm.
The length of the step (the total width of the march) can be determined arbitrarily, but it should be borne in mind that if it is less than 80 cm, it will be difficult for two people to disperse on the stairs. Problems will also arise with the rise of dimensional furniture to the second floor.
The number of steps in one flight should not exceed 11-12, otherwise the reliability and safety of the structure and the convenience of its use are reduced. If there are more steps, it is advisable to separate them with an intermediate platform.
The minimum height from the plane of the steps to the overlap is 190-200 cm.
The height at which the railings are installed should be 80-100 cm, and the distance between the fence elements should not be more than 15 cm, especially if there are small children in the house.

Measurements

The main parameters required for calculations are the height from the final floor of the lower floor to the final floor of the upper one. That is, you need to measure not just the distance from floor to ceiling, but add the thickness of the floor and floor covering to it.

In addition to the dimensions shown in the picture, you need to know the length of the horizontal projection of the stairs or the length of each flight.

Building a drawing of a flight staircase

Having decided on the location of the stairs and the parameters of the site allocated for it, you need to draw a right-angled triangle on a sheet of paper, one leg of which is equal to the height between the floors, and the second to the length of the march. The angle between the hypotenuse and the horizontal leg is the estimated slope. By changing the length of the march in one direction or another, it can be adjusted to the desired value.

If the staircase will consist of two or more flights, a drawing is made for each. At the same time, one should not forget about the intermediate platform and take into account its size.

Calculation of the parameters of the stairs

In order to better understand the principle of calculation, we will make it on the example of a structure with a height of 3 meters and a length of 4.3 meters (see drawing above).

We choose the depth of the tread, for example, 28 cm, and determine the number of steps, dividing by it the total length of the march in a horizontal projection:

Round to 15, recalculate and get the exact tread depth of 28.7 cm.

To find out the height of a step, we divide the total height of the staircase by the number of steps:

300: 15 \u003d 20 cm.

We substitute the obtained values \u200b\u200binto the "safety formula":

28.7 + 2x20 \u003d 68.7 cm

430: 16 \u003d 26.9 cm

300: 16 \u003d 18.7 cm

26.9 + 2x18.7 \u003d 64.3

If this is too much, and a straight structure of this size does not fit into the allotted area, you will have to make a swivel staircase - quarter-turn or half-turn, with a platform or run-in steps. This is not always possible as the size of the ceiling opening increases. Then you need to leave one long march without a platform, installing an additional vertical support during installation.

But there is another solution that allows you not to expand the staircase: to make the first march short, so that when you climb to the site you do not rest your head on the ceiling. The distance from it to the overlap should be about 2 meters or slightly less. Subtract it from the ceiling height. For example, 280 - 190 \u003d 90 cm.

We determine how many steps will fit at this distance from the floor:

If there are no people in the family with a height higher than 180-185 cm, we can safely round this number to 5 and make a platform at a height of 18.7 x 5 \u003d 93.5 cm.

In the second march, 11 steps will remain.

Video - An example of calculating a mid-flight staircase

Calculation of a spiral staircase

The main design parameters in this case will be the height of the staircase, its diameter and angle of rotation. For example, take the following dimensions:

Height (H) - 280 cm;
Diameter R - 120 cm;
Twisting angle (w) - 360 0.

The length of the march of the spiral staircase is determined along the centerline of the rise, which is located at a distance of 2/3 of the radius from its center. We substitute the data we know into the formula for finding the circumference:

L \u003d 2 x 3.14 x 120 x 2/3 \u003d 502.4 cm

To find out the number of steps, we divide this value by the depth of the tread along the ascent line. As in the case of marching stairs, its size is chosen within the range of 20-30 cm.Let it be equal to 30 cm.

502,4: 30 = 16,7

Round up to 17 and adjust the tread depth:

502.4: 17 \u003d 29.6 cm

Then we calculate the height of the step:

280: 17 \u003d 16.5cm

We substitute the obtained results into the already known comfort formula and we get a satisfactory value:

29.6 + 2x16.5 \u003d 62.6 cm

The steps of the spiral staircase are truncated. In the central part, they are attached to a vertical post and have the smallest width, the minimum value of which is 10-12 cm. It remains for us to find the depth of the tread at the outer edge, for which we just need to divide the circumference by the number of steps.

The circumference in our case is 753.6 cm (2 x 3.14 x 120)

753.6: 17 \u003d 44.33 cm.

Based on this example and substituting your data into the formulas, it is easy to calculate the parameters of any spiral staircase.

Video - Errors in the design and construction of stairs

DIY materials for making stairs

The choice of material is dictated not only by the personal preferences of the inhabitants of the house, but also by their characteristics, the general interior design, and the structure of the floors. For example, a floor on timber beams may not support the weight of a concrete structure, and it is unlikely to fit harmoniously into a rustic log cabin interior.

Modern technology makes it possible to make stairs from a wide variety of materials, including polymers and glass. But at home and without special equipment, their use is impossible. For DIY making, traditional wood, metal, concrete and their combinations are most suitable.

Tree

Wooden interior stairs are the most affordable and popular. Among them there are both very simple and inexpensive ones, made of coniferous wood, and exclusive ones, made of expensive wood species, decorated with carved decorative elements. Therefore, any homeowner can choose a model for self-assembly in accordance with their finances and practical skills in working with wood.

Pros and cons of wooden stairs

The popularity of wooden stairs is due to the many positive qualities of both the wood itself and the structures made from it.

Light weight, allowing the installation of such stairs in any home and on any floors.
Attractive appearance: wood fits well into any interior from ethno to ultramodern.
Comfort and safety: wooden parts are pleasant to the touch, do not slip.
Ease of manufacture: it is easiest to make a wooden staircase with your own hands.

The disadvantages include the need to treat wood not only with decorative, but also with protective compounds that prevent rotting and fire. And also its property to dry out over time, which causes a creak when walking from the friction of contacting elements.

What tree is better to make a ladder

Wood for the manufacture of interfloor stairs is selected taking into account its properties and cost.

Softwoods are the most inexpensive and are easier to process thanks to their softwoods. Risers, stringers, support racks can be made from pine lumber; spruce wood, which is less durable and prone to decay, is suitable only for risers. The hardest, strongest and most durable "needles" are larch, it is suitable for all elements.
The most affordable hardwoods are oak and ash. Ladders made of them can withstand heavy loads and, with proper care, retain their strength and appearance for many decades. But because of the high hardness of the rocks, it is more difficult to work with them.
Exotic wood species have a lot of advantages, but they are very expensive, so it is better not to use them for independent construction, but to order the manufacture of a master.

Metal

Metal structures have two important advantages:

they have a very high bearing capacity;
they take up little space due to the small cross-section of the supporting elements.

In addition, metal is a rather flexible material that allows you to give yourself any shape and create very interesting and unusual designs.

But this requires special tools and equipment, the ability to work with them, knowledge of the special properties of the metal. Therefore, among homemade stairs, metal ones are much less common than wooden ones.

Concrete

The most durable, reliable and strong stairs are made of monolithic reinforced concrete, pouring the solution into the formwork with a metal reinforcing frame installed in it. Additional advantages include their fire resistance, no squeak when walking and the possibility of finishing with a variety of materials from wood and carpet to tiles made of natural stone.

However, the weight of such structures is very large, which limits their installation in most country houses. Another disadvantage is the complexity of manufacturing: the presence of wet and dirty work, the need to transfer weights, scaffolding and a long period of drying of concrete before reaching operational characteristics.

Therefore, concrete stairs are best erected during the construction of the house and before its interior decoration.

Material combinations

The combination of various materials allows you to create with your own hands universal stairs of a wide variety of shapes and styles. If all the same wood, metal and concrete are used for the manufacture of supporting elements, then steps and fences can be made of glass, ceramic tiles, forged elements, plastic, etc.

Instructions on how to make a wooden staircase to the second floor with your own hands

Wooden stairs can be custom made or assembled from store-bought pre-fabricated parts. But it is much cheaper to make it yourself if you have all the tools you need for this in your arsenal.

Manufacturing staircase parts - general principles

Each structural element is manufactured according to pre-made drawings with the dimensions indicated on it. The material should be chosen carefully, giving preference to well-dried wood without cracks, traces of mold and blue, and other defects.

The most difficult thing is to ideally cut out the stringers exactly, since reliability and strength, as well as aesthetics of the structure, will depend on this. For these load-bearing elements, a solid board is chosen without cracks and numerous large knots, with a thickness of at least 45 ÷ 50 mm.
Cloths of steps can have a width of 1.5-2 cm more than the space provided for them on the stringers, plus the thickness of the risers. The steps should be perfectly even with rounded neat edges, and this is also very important to consider. For them, a board with a thickness of 30 ÷ 35 mm is selected.
If it was planned to make the staircase closed, with risers, then they should also be done carefully. For these elements, you do not need to take a board of great thickness, since basically the entire load will fall on the stringers, and the risers will play a supporting role. A thickness of 15 ÷ 20 mm is enough.

To cut treads, risers and straight supporting beams (bowstrings or stringers), an ordinary jigsaw with a wood saw is enough. For the manufacture of curly handrails and balusters, special equipment is required. If not, such parts can be bought at a hardware store.

The corners of steps and other "contact" parts must be rounded or at least chamfered.

The finished cut-out elements of the staircase must be sanded and sanded before installation to remove burrs and roughness. In the absence of a sander, this can be done using fine-grained sandpaper.

The final stage is impregnation with a protective compound. If you leave it for later and process the already mounted structure, all joints will remain unprotected.

Prices for various types of stair elements

Stair elements

Photo instruction for creating a staircase made of wood

Step 1 - drawing of the future structure

DIY ladder on bowstrings

A bowstring is a support beam of a staircase with grooves for steps on the inside. The treads inserted into the grooves are securely held in them. But sometimes the bowstring is made without grooves, and the treads are attached to it by means of steel corners or wooden bars. This option is less reliable, so we will not consider it.

How to make a bowstring

For the manufacture of bowstrings, one-piece non-spliced \u200b\u200bboards with a thickness of at least 40 mm and a width of 300 mm are chosen.

Note! Do not forget to reduce the estimated number of steps by one, as in fact the last step will be the floor of the upper floor.

The marked grooves are cut with a milling machine. They can be open, for the entire width of the bowstring, or closed - reaching a certain level. The depth of the grooves should not be more than 2/3 of the thickness of the supporting beam, and the width should exactly correspond to the thickness of the steps.
Two through holes are drilled in the grooves for fastening the steps.

Video - Making a bowstring from a template

How to make steps and mount them

To make the staircase even and durable, first, steps are made from boards 40-50 mm thick and marches are assembled on the rough, adjusting all the parts to each other.

It is much easier to make steps than supporting elements, since these are ordinary rectangular parts with a rounded outer edge. Their length should be equal to the design distance between the bowstrings plus twice the depth of the grooves.

The finished steps are inserted into the nests prepared in both bowstrings. For this, one bowstring is laid on a flat surface with grooves up, all treads are installed in them one by one, and the second bowstring is pushed onto their free ends.

Bowstring assembly

After a rough assembly and adjustment, the span is disassembled and the installation of the supporting beams begins in place. Each of them has two points of support - on the floor of the first floor and the overlap of the second floor or on an intermediate platform.

The maximum load falls on the lower supports, so they must be fixed very securely, eliminating the risk of slipping. To do this, a support block is fixed on the floor, and a groove is cut out on the lower edge of the bowstring, corresponding to the section of the bar.

There are other ways of attaching the bowstring to the ground floor. For example, when installing a concrete screed, grooves are left in it according to the size of the supporting part of the bowstring.

If the lower stop is made securely, there can be any method of attaching the upper part of the bowstring. They are shown in the following diagram.

After the installation of the supporting beams, steps can be installed in them and fastened through the previously made holes. For reliability and to exclude a squeak, it is advisable to coat all joints with wood glue.

How to make railings and mount them

The stair rail is installed between the top and bottom posts and rests on balusters.

The racks are attached to the floor and to the ends of the bowstring; a cord is pulled between them at the height of the handrail installation. He must repeat the slope of the flight of stairs.

Then the lower part of the intermediate balusters is cut at the same angle, and they are fixed on the string with an equal pitch.

There are several ways of fastening:

self-tapping screws at an angle;
on hairpins;
on dowels.

The last two options are preferable, since the fasteners remain invisible. For their implementation, a hole with a diameter of 12 mm and a depth of 60 mm is drilled in the center of the lower end of the balusters. A glue-greased wooden dowel or a metal stud 120 mm long is installed in it.

The counter hole is drilled in the bowstring, fasteners sticking out of the baluster are inserted into it.

After installing all the balusters and installing them in a vertical position, markings are applied to their upper part along a stretched cord for cutting under the handrail. It attaches itself to them in the same ways.

Video - Stairs on bowstrings to the second floor

DIY ladder on kosoura

Kosour is an inclined support beam in the form of a comb with teeth cut out from above for attaching risers and laying treads. Moreover, the elements of the steps can protrude along the edges beyond the limits of the stringers.

Usually, standard interfloor stairs are made on two kosoura, but there can be three of them, and even more if the span width exceeds 100 cm.

This design is easier to make than a ladder on bowstrings, since cutting grooves is excluded from the manufacturing process.

Making kosour

The initial stage does not differ from the manufacture of bowstrings: a board of the required thickness and width is cut to length and filed for installation at the selected angle. Then the marking is done, which is also convenient to do using a template made from a rectangular piece of plywood, onto which a stop rail is nailed. The distance from the corner of the template to the rail on one side is equal to the height of the riser, and on the other - to the depth of the tread.

After sawing the teeth on one part, it is used as a solid template for marking the remaining stringers.

Installation of kosour

The stringers are installed in the same way as the bowstrings, controlling their parallelism by fitting treads and risers, which should rest on the cutouts without distortions and overlapping the level.

Step mounting technology

The thickness of the steps of the stringer staircase depends on the distance between the anchor points. If it is less than 80 cm, and risers are provided in the structure, 30 mm boards can be used. With a wider span, add additional stringers or increase the thickness of the steps to at least 40 mm.

The connection of treads and risers with each other and with kosoura can be done in different ways:

screws on the front side of the parts - subject to subsequent finishing with fine materials;
flush with screws with masking of mounting holes with wooden plugs;
using steel corners and screws;
with the help of triangular slats;
glue joint in the groove.

In this case, balusters under the railings are installed on the steps. Their installation is similar to installation on a bowstring, with the difference that you do not need to cut off their lower end at an angle.

Video - Do-it-yourself stairs on kosoura

Instructions for creating a spiral staircase to the second floor

The method of making a wooden spiral staircase depends on the place of its installation.

Installation of the support leg

To ensure the reliability and strength of the structure, the wooden support post of the spiral staircase is made of a bar with a minimum section of 15x15 cm or a log with a minimum diameter of 20 cm.

But more often they use a steel pipe with a diameter of 5 cm or more. Such a support can be bought in a specialized store complete with fasteners and steel or wooden sleeves, which are put on the pipe between the steps, decorate it and provide fixation of treads with a certain vertical step.

A hole is made in the floor along the cross-section of the support so that its lower part is pinched. Round posts are additionally fixed with flanges of the corresponding diameter, screwed to the floor. Square racks are reinforced with a bar or baseboard installed along the lower perimeter and nailed both to the floor and to the support itself.

Another method of fastening is the device of a support cross made of a metal corner or channel, which perfectly copes with overturning loads.

Production of steps and installation of stairs

If a spiral staircase is installed without being tied to the walls, all its steps have the same wedge-shaped shape. When self-made, they are cut in pairs from one board, placing the parts with a "knot", as shown in the picture. At the outer corners, cuts are made under the fence posts.

If the steps are strung on a support, holes of the required diameter are cut in their narrow part, for which several parts are collected in a bag, fixed with clamps and with the help of a crown on a tree all the holes are cut out in one step.

Then the steps, alternately with wooden bushings, are strung on the rack, fanned out and fixed in a given position with inter-step balusters.

Council. It is difficult to bend wooden railings for such a staircase at home, so you can purchase plastic railings that can be shaped into any shape when heated.

For a corner or wall ladder with steps attached to a wall or string, each step is designed and cut in place. This moment is well shown in the video.

A narrow part of the treads is attached to a wooden support using grooves or dummy bars selected in the support, resting on the lower step and supporting the upper one.

Video - DIY wooden spiral staircase to the second floor

Fixing the railing to the wall

If the spiral staircase is in the corner of the room, you can attach the railings to the wall. To do this, it is enough to purchase special angular wall brackets with two mounting pads. One of them is fixed on the wall in such a way that the second follows the slope of the stairs. A handrail is installed on it.

Video - Another interesting option for installing stairs to the second floor

DIY ladder on a metal frame

As a rule, only the supporting frame of interfloor stairs is made of metal, on which wooden steps are laid. Fences and railings can be made of wood or steel.

The principle of manufacturing a metal frame

There are several options for a welded frame, but the simplest one for independent production consists of two shaped pipes or channels, to which triangular "fillets" from a steel corner are welded. The finished structures are kosoura, to which steps and risers are attached.

After installing the channels in the design position, step markings are applied to them.
Fillets are welded from the corners and are rectangular triangles with a vertical side equal to the riser height. The horizontal shelf is made shorter than the depth of the tread, and the hypotenuse connecting them should have an angle of inclination of the stairs.
The fillets are welded to the bearing elements according to the markings, holes are drilled into them for fastening the steps.
Then all welded seams are cleaned and polished, the entire structure is treated with a metal primer and painted.

How and what to decorate the stairs

It is possible to revet a metal frame not only with wood, although this is the most common option. If you first attach treads and risers made of thick plywood to it, then laminate, carpet, and other floor coverings can be laid on it.

This method is also applicable for wood cladding without visible fasteners: the plywood is screwed to the frame with screws, and the finishing coating is glued to it with carpentry glue or fastened to dowels.

Another manufacturing option can be explored in the following video.

Video - We make a metal staircase to the second floor with a broken stringer

DIY concrete staircase to the second floor instructions

Such a staircase can only be installed in houses with reinforced concrete floors.

Manufacturing of the supporting structure

The construction of a concrete staircase is divided into several stages: the construction of the formwork, reinforcement and grouting.

Council. While the concrete is fresh, you can install embedded studs along the edges of the steps to fasten the balusters.

The process of making a concrete staircase is described in much more detail in another of ours. In it you will also find online calculators for calculating the amount of materials.

Finishing work

The concrete must be taken care of so that it seizes well and does not crack. To do this, during the first week, the surface is periodically watered and kept under a film.

It is possible to remove the formwork no earlier than 28-30 days after pouring. And to start finishing - after the completion of the main construction work, simultaneously with the interior decoration of the premises.

You can decorate such a staircase with any materials: porcelain stoneware, natural stone, wood. But many of them put too much stress on an already heavy structure, so wood, laminate, carpet would be an ideal choice.

Video - Making a concrete staircase with your own hands

Conclusion

Many private developers would like to save money on an interfloor staircase, since by the time it is installed, most of them have little money left. This is quite possible if you start making it yourself. If you have the skills to work with wood or metal, such a task does not seem impossible, especially since some complex structural elements can be bought. Difficulties can arise at the initial stage - when designing a staircase. But they can also be overcome if you carefully study the corresponding section in this article.

If there is more than one floor in a private house, you cannot do without stairs. But besides the fact that it must connect the floors, the staircase must also fit into the interior. Therefore, when choosing a design, you need to pay attention not only not to the dimensions and how much space it takes up in the room, but also to take into account the style. Then the staircase to the second floor, made by hand, will be not only a functional item, but also an interior decoration. The work is difficult and responsible, but you can do it.

Types of stairs to the second floor in a private house

All of these structures can be made of metal, wood, concrete, glass, marble and other decorative stones, and combinations of these materials are often used. But most often the stairs to the second floor are made of wood with their own hands, a little less often - from metal or combinations of metal and wood.

In addition, there are two types of degrees - open and closed. In open staircases there is only a horizontally located part - the step itself, in closed ones - there is also a vertical part - a riser.

Design standards

When developing a staircase project, it is important to make it comfortable and safe. There are very specific numbers and recommendations that relate to the parameters of the steps and the general angle of rise:

The number of steps is determined by simply dividing the height of the planned staircase by the selected riser height. For example, the height of the room is 285 cm. It was decided to make the elevation angle 40 °. According to the table, we see that the height of the riser is 19 cm. Divide 285 cm / 19 cm \u003d 15 steps. If the number is even, we accordingly slightly adjust the size to get an odd number.

If one of the steps turns out to be several centimeters less, this height is "taken away" from the first step. All others, including the last one, must be the same.

When choosing the size of the steps, the comfort can be checked. If the doubled riser height is added to the selected step width, the result should be from 60 ms to 64 cm. The second test option is that the sum of the tread and riser lengths is optimally 45 cm, but deviations of 2 cm in both directions are permissible.

All these parameters should be laid down when designing a house. If the house has already been built, you have to proceed from the fact that there is and adjust the dimensions to the existing dimensions.

Spiral staircase

As already mentioned, a spiral staircase in a private house takes up the least space. But it has a serious drawback: it is inconvenient to walk on it, and it is almost impossible to lift anything bulky to the second floor. So they are not very popular, although they look good and fit well into any interior.

Calculation features

When designing a spiral staircase, one must take into account that in some positions, there are other steps above the head. Therefore, making small risers will not work.

The next feature is that the steps all have an unequal width - with one narrower, with the other wider. With a narrow part, they are attached to the central support (pillar), with a wide part - to walls or balusters. The standard for the width of the tread is measured in the middle part, and the wide one should not be more than 40 cm.

The span width is from 50 cm to 100 cm.The entire structure is doubled - a square with a side from 100 cm to 200 cm is required.

Precast column structure

This type of spiral staircase is the easiest to make: a pipe is placed on which wooden elements are put on - steps, intermediate cylinders, etc.

If you look in more detail, then in addition to a metal pipe (in this case with a diameter of 40 mm), steps and balusters (available in any design), there are turned wooden cylinders (segments) that set the distance from one step to another.

On the other hand, the distance between the steps is maintained using saws on the balusters. Steps are attached to these grooves (with glue + fasteners).

Do-it-yourself installation of stairs to the second floor begins with the installation of a pillar. A hole is made in the floor of the first floor and the ceiling of the second, equal to the diameter of the pillar. We insert the pipe into the hole, put on an enlarged washer, tighten the nut. Further, the assembly is simple: the corresponding elements are placed on the rod, in parallel with the installation of the step, a baluster is placed and fixed. The dimensions of the steps for this spiral staircase with the given parameters are in the drawing.

Steps are cut from glued board or furniture board. You can use an array, but furniture quality, that is, without any defects and dried, with a moisture content of no more than 8-12%. Although glued wood is considered more reliable: it will definitely not lead and it will not crack when it dries.

For an example of an assembly of a similar design, see the video. It has a prefabricated post, but you can also use a solid one, although it will be inconvenient to assemble the steps - each time you have to climb the stairs.

The construction of a spiral staircase made of metal is presented in the following video clip. For those who are friends with welding, this option will be easier.

Spiral staircase to the second floor: photos of interesting options

With or without railings, the choice is yours. In the photo on the right, a wooden spiral staircase on a curved stringer is a difficult element for execution Forged spiral staircases are a classic of the genre

Marching stairs to the second floor

Marching stairs are the most popular. Firstly, it is convenient to use them, and secondly, the technology of their construction has been worked out long ago. There are few features of the calculation. It is important to decide on the number of marches. In one area there should be from 3 to 15 o steps. The most convenient ones have 11-13 pieces. If by calculation it turns out that there should be more steps, they are divided into several sections, between which platforms are made. The dimensions of the platforms are multiples of the step length (600-630 mm). Then the ascent and descent will not cause inconvenience.

Kinds

Ladders with platforms take up a lot of space. If there is not enough space, turns are added. The most common option is to place the staircase on two adjacent walls at the corners. Also, to save space, you can make cross-country (turning) steps instead of a platform. Only one moment: the section with winder steps is the most traumatic. If the family has small children or elderly people, it is better to make a playground.

As mentioned earlier, marching stairs are made on kosoura (beams with a sawtooth edge) and on terivs (just an inclined beam). Attaching steps to string beams takes more time and skill. Usually, a seat is cut out for each step - a groove is selected in the board. For additional reliability, bars are still nailed from below or corners are installed. The corner option is reliable, but rather controversial from an aesthetic point of view. If the entire staircase is made of wood, the metal parts are very "cutting" the look. Neatly processed bars look much more organic. However, with a sufficient thickness of the boards for the steps and the width of the bowstring, you can do without additional fasteners. In this case, it is important that the steps do not bend, otherwise they may jump out of the grooves.

The assembly of steps on kosoura is simpler: you have two or three supports to which the cut-to-size parts are attached. The main task is to correctly mark and cut out the stringers.

This is a staircase on kosoura - one of the fragments of the assembly

Installation of a flight staircase with step by step photos

Kosoura are made from a wide board 75-80 mm thick and 350-400 mm wide. If there is no massive dry board, glued boards can be used. How to calculate the kosour is described in the form, but you can assemble the stairs to the second floor not only as a stand-alone one.

An example of assembling a staircase on kosoura near the wall further. First, we fix the supporting pillars on which the run-in steps will rest. We attach the upper stringers to these posts.

Then we put the lower ones. We fasten the stringer near the wall over the decorative board - it is easier to wash it and the dirt is less visible than on the wall.

We fasten the lower stringers - one to the post, the second to the finishing board

Intermediate stringers are installed last. It's easier to dock all the elements this way.

Installation of steps begins. After they are cut, sanded and painted, everything is simple: put in place, screw the hole under the screw, then tighten it.

The next step is to attach the balusters. In this case, they are made of stainless steel pipe with wood inserts. A hole is drilled under each baluster, into which a tube is inserted, it is fixed on a hairpin or in any other available way.

Photos of interesting marching stairs to the 2nd floor

Metal and glass - an interesting combination An interesting idea, and from the end - a pantry

You can turn to professionals for help, but keep in mind that they may not attach importance to minor defects during construction, which can subsequently lead to serious damage and subsequent repairs. A self-made staircase to the second floor will give you several advantages:

the result will meet expectations;
will help save money and nerves;
a ladder made by yourself will become your pride.

If you are limited in money for the purchase of materials, you can buy cheaper analogs: instead of wood, use chipboard, which can be varnished or painted.

In pursuit of economy, quality can be overlooked. While a cheap wooden staircase can also last a long time, it will start to creak very soon. In order not to face this trouble, the ladder must be assembled using silicone sealant, which cannot be done without preliminary painting of the parts.

In this article, we will talk about how to make a staircase to the second floor with our own hands from wood and metal, and also show photos and video instructions.

For the manufacture of an interfloor staircase, concrete with a facing of tiles or marble, metal (a welding machine is required), as well as wood can be used. The last option is the most practical and convenient. The wooden structure is distinguished by its low weight, ease of installation and beautiful appearance.

If there is a room with a ceiling height of 2.8 m, it is worth giving preference to straight structures, or with a 25% turn of the staircase. The staircase is made with a length of 80 cm. This option allows you to use the space under the stairs for storing things. It should also be noted a minus: free space on the upper and lower floors will be significantly reduced.

To save precious square meters, a spiral staircase is ideal, but it is also not without its drawbacks:

too steep rise;
small width of stairs.

Installation of a spiral staircase requires 3 m² of free space and a lot of work.

Another variant of the staircase is possible, in which it is located along the wall surface. In this case, it is worth providing for two marches and a turn. Thus, you will make it as compact and comfortable as possible for movement.

Calculation of the dimensions of the stairs. Measure the distance between the floors of the first second floor together with the overlap. This will determine the height of the structure. The step should have a height of 18–20 cm. Further, dividing the height of the stairs by the height of the steps, you get the total number of steps.
Projection of dimensions onto the floor surface. To design a structure, it is necessary to determine the width of the steps (about 30 cm), after which their number must be multiplied by their width. This will give you the projection size.
Manufacturing of staircase elements. To make a kosour, you will need a bar measuring 14 × 16, steps - 4 cm boards, risers - 2.5 cm boards. You yourself will determine the length of the step, remember that the larger it is, the better.
Preliminary fitting. If, during the preliminary fitting of the parts, everything fits, process each element with a grinder and assemble the structure. To fix the parts of the staircase with each other, coat all the places of contact with each other with glue (PVA or carpentry) and additionally fasten with screws.
Stain and varnish. First apply the stain on the surface, and after waiting for it to dry, cover with several layers of varnish.

As a design solution, you can consider mortise steps, which are inserted into the grooves cut in the stringer:

Make markings on the stringer where the steps are to be installed. Using a hacksaw and chisel, cut out the grooves.
Make some 9mm holes in the center of the groove.
Screw the turbo coupling into the holes.
Install the step into the groove and screw it in.

When buying planed wood, you must consider the following requirements:

there should be no dark spots on the surface;
the presence of cracks, chips, roughness and other defects is unacceptable.

Knots (up to 1 cm in diameter) can only be present if steps or risers are made from the material. Also pay attention to the humidity, the large mass of the board suggests that it is worth abandoning the purchase.

When making a structure without experience, you may encounter certain difficulties, but your desire and aspiration will help you achieve the desired result.

Now we invite you to familiarize yourself with the technology of making a staircase made of wood. First of all, it is necessary to make drawings with individual structural details. To do this, take well-dried wood and transfer the appropriate dimensions to it. There are several factors to consider:

The strength and reliability of the stairs will completely depend on the correctness of cutting out the stringers. Therefore, their manufacture must be approached responsibly. Moreover, for the kosour it is necessary to choose a solid board that does not have large knots in large quantities. The thickness of the board can be 45-50 mm.
The board for the risers can have a thickness of 15–20 mm more than for them on the stringer, and the thickness of the riser is also taken into account. The treads themselves should have a perfectly flat surface with neatly rounded edges. The thickness of the board can be in the range of 30–35 mm.
If you want to make a closed staircase with risers, then their manufacture should also be extremely careful. Its thickness should not be large, 15–20 mm is enough. In this case, the main load will go to the stringers. The risers themselves play the role of support.
As for the balusters and handrails, it is recommended to purchase them ready-made with stationary fasteners.

If you have small children at home, then for safety reasons, install 2 balusters on each step. In all other cases, you can install one at a time.

When all the structural blanks are ready, you can proceed to the most crucial stage of work - the installation of the stairs. All subsequent work looks like this:

At the selected place, stringers are mounted. To do this, fix the support bar on the floor, it is on it that the kosour will be attached. At the top, the fastening is carried out into a cut groove in the beam. In some cases, a metal support is used for fastening. In this case, an anchor bolt is used for fastening. In the process of installing the stringer, be sure to check everything by level or plumb line.
Before laying the treads, the risers should be screwed on.

After that, the treads are fixed on the kosoura and on top of the risers with self-tapping screws in the direction from bottom to top.
After that, the balusters are installed.

So, at the top of the stairs and at the bottom, mount the support drains. They will serve as the border of the handrails as well as support the handrail.

In addition, the support legs serve as decorative elements. Therefore, they are often made using wood cutting.

Balusters, in turn, can have different shapes, sizes and mounting methods. Some, for example, are simply screwed on with self-tapping screws, others are mounted in pre-drilled holes. But in any case, the attachment point must be closed with a decorative plug. Further work is as follows:

On top of the installed balusters, attach the railing to the extreme support posts. Additionally, you can install 1 or 2 additional support legs in the middle.
When using two, three or more support posts, instead of balusters between the posts, several boards can be installed parallel to the slope of the stairs.
In the next step, you can start sanding with emery or a sander. After that, paint and varnish is applied.

The first layer acts as an antiseptic against rotting and the appearance of mold / mildew. The structure should dry out, after which you can start the main painting.

The staircase is coated with water-based varnish, hot wax or paint. You can also stain the wood to slightly darken the structure. It all depends on your desire.

To understand how best to place a wooden or metal structure on the second floor and use the space under it, you need to figure out which structures exist in principle.

The staircase in an apartment or house differs in its configuration quite strongly. And depending on the total area of \u200b\u200bthe room, one or another structure is chosen for the second floor.

The simplest option is considered to be a wooden straight single-flight staircase with comfortable steps that lift to the second floor without inconvenient turns. This design is distinguished by its large dimensions, but also great safety.

A variant of such a staircase is also considered the easiest to create it yourself. The most important and obvious disadvantage is its bulkiness. However, in order to save space in the house and not burden the interior, various modifications of the structure are used. It can have a twist. The staircase design to the second floor with a 90-degree turn perfectly saves space at home. It can also be made at a 180 degree angle. The only nuance that should be taken into account is that in this case, the structure will have to be equipped with winders, and this will slightly complicate the creation of a staircase with your own hands.

Where and how to arrange the stairs to the second floor also depends on its elements. Typically, the structure has steps, frame and railings. Frames may differ depending on the design of the stairs and the material of their manufacture. They are made in the form of stringers, bowstrings or support posts, if these are spiral staircases.

The frame in the form of kosour is two beams in the form of a ladder, on which steps are installed. They can also be straight, in which case the steps are fixed to them with the help of filly. Ladder-shaped stringers are perhaps the most common option when creating wooden staircases. Such frames are the most ergonomic, so if you want to arrange a marching staircase, then you need to use them in the design. However, it is important to keep in mind that they are less durable than, for example, bowstrings or stringers with filly. They are not suitable for large stairs.

A more compact design will be obtained when creating a flight of stairs on one central stringer. It is usually made of metal. Span layout:

In addition to kosour, there is another option for fastening steps - bowstrings. This frame consists of two beams, usually made of wood, into which the steps are inserted into specially made grooves. Stairs to the second floor on bowstrings take up a little more space than on stringers.

If there is not enough space in the house, then spiral staircases will be a good option. Their buildings are equipped with run-in steps leading to the rooms on the second floor along a predetermined radius. It is quite difficult to create it with your own hands, since a serious and complex calculation of the stairs in the house is required. But it is this option that is preferable to place in a house with a small area. Spiral staircases have another advantage over direct staircase options: they look very beautiful and can become a real decoration of the living space. A support pillar with winder steps fixed on it serves as a frame. Ideas on how to plan the spans:

The staircase on the bolts is a successful combination of the positive qualities of a straight and spiral staircase. This design is a marching version, the steps of which are attached to the bolt. Usually it does not have a frame or is provided with it on one side only.

What to do when you want to save space of a small house and at the same time make an interesting option for constructing stairs to the second floor with your own hands? You can pay attention to the construction of wood "duck step". It can be located even in very small spaces, because it allows you to combine safety and ease of lifting, even with a steep slope. This is achieved due to the special structure of the steps, one part of which is created narrow and the other wide.

What determines the compactness of the staircase?

In addition to the correct choice of the construction option, the correct calculation of the staircase in the house can help to save interior space, in which it will be reliable and compact.

How convenient it will be to place it in the house depends on the angle of its inclination. The smaller it is, the more compact the structure, but at the same time, and more dangerous for lifting. The most comfortable tilt angle is considered to be 30-40 degrees, but in this case, the design of the staircase will take up a lot of space. Alternatively, make it rotated at an angle of 90 degrees and place it next to the wall. However, if you create a “goose step” staircase with your own hands, then it may well be located in the house at an angle of 55-60 degrees.

The width and height of the steps of the structure can also determine the convenience of the location of the stairs in the interior. But in this case, it is worth remembering that there are ideal parameters that determine the ease of lifting. The optimal step height is 17 cm, and the width is 29 cm.

If you are going to place the structure of a straight staircase in your house, you will need straight steps, which are very easy to make yourself. To save space, when spiral staircases or straight staircases to the second floor with a turn are more suitable, it will be necessary to know how structures with run-in steps are made. These elements differ in that their width is not the same, but in shape they resemble a trapezoid.

The width of the flight of the staircase should not be less than 80 cm. The optimal size is a width of 90-100 cm. Anything wider will eat up the useful space of the house. Too narrow a march will be inconvenient and not safe to climb.

How to arrange the stairs in the house?

To understand how much space the structure will take, it is necessary to make a competent calculation of the stairs and identify how and where it is best to place it.

For example, screw structures with winding steps will occupy an area equal to its diameter.

When calculating, it is necessary to find out how many steps the structure will have. To do this, its height must be divided by the height of the steps. The height of the structure is equal to the sum of the distance from the floor to the ceiling of the first floor and the ceiling.

If the length of the staircase is too long, then it will be very difficult to fit it into the interior of the house. To do this, it will need to be divided into two parts and make a turn with winder steps or a platform. In this case, the length of the structure will be equal to the sum of the distance between flights and the product of the number of lifting elements by their length. The calculation of a staircase with a turn also includes the width of the overall structure, which is the sum of the distance between its two parts. This distance should not be less than seven centimeters.

In total, you can understand how much space the structure will take in the house and how best to arrange it by calculating its area. For this, the values \u200b\u200bfound in the form of length and width should be multiplied.

Naturally, it is more convenient to place the structure leading to the second floor in the lobby of the house. However, not every home is spacious. If the hall is large, then the staircase in a private house can be made longer and wider. In a small space, it is better to place it near the wall in the corner of the room. In this case, the design on the bolts will be a good option from the point of view of ergonomics and interior design. It is fixed to the wall without taking up much space.

For those who consider the staircase structure not only from the point of view of the convenience of location, but also the teachings of Feng Shui, you can also highlight some of the rules for its installation.

Firstly, the lifting structure should not be located in the center of the room and not in front of the entrance, but away from it. This is due to the fact that with such an arrangement of the structure, energy flows can freely move around the country house.

Secondly, on the second floor, the structure should not rest against the door. As a last resort, the door just shouldn't be closed.

Thirdly, Feng Shui experts advise placing the structure in the southwest, west or south. It is forbidden to build it in the northeast, which can provoke a loss of money.

If Feng Shui is not a useful instruction for you, then screw structures will look especially good in the center of the hall.

Usually the stairs leading to the second floor are located in the corridor. In the living room, it will look relevant only if the room is really large. Otherwise, it will take up the usable area, which will make the room cramped. On the other hand, this does not apply to expensive and beautiful stairs, the purpose of which is also to decorate the interior. The location of the structure must be thought out to the smallest detail.

The lifting structure in the apartment is not often found, but if the living space consists of two tiers, then you cannot do without it. It is better to use lightweight options in the apartment, which will save space as much as possible. Ladders on bolts or narrow marching options on kosoura are suitable. It should fit perfectly into the interior of the apartment, since usually in such a living space, the overall design is formed from each structure or thing in the apartment.

When positioning it, it is important to consider the safety of the lift. It is associated not only with the correct calculation of all its elements, but also with additional measures that need to be taken. For example, if the structure will be located on a rather dark side of the house, then it is important to consider lighting. Although the best option would be its location by the window. In the evening, you can illuminate the stairs with LED strip. It additionally colors any interior.

When organizing the safety of a ladder, it is important to take into account the material from which it is made. For example, if the steps are made of metal or glass, then you can easily slip on them. Therefore, it is best to put special silicone inserts on them. Carpets are often placed on wooden structures.

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