What temperature withstands early cabbage. Cool resistance of white cabbage

What temperature withstands early cabbage. Cool resistance of white cabbage

Return freezers can bring a lot of problems. I understood this capital truth, unfortunately, not immediately. I had to learn from my mistakes, and the loss of some plants and parts of the future crop began to pay.

Return freezers can bring a lot of problems

To warn you from such mistakes of you, I want to discuss this topic relevant for many dacms. Let's figure out what danger the return freezes in themselves, how to predict them and, most importantly, how to prevent their detrimental effects on the plants.

What is dangerous return freezers?

The harm that return freezers can apply to many representatives of thermo-loving crops are huge. However, in the first months of spring, they do not carry any threat, because young plants that only released leaves will not have time to freeze. In the worst case, only the edges of the leaves will suffer, but it will be quite a bit of time, and they will approach.



Early spring young plants will not have time to climb

Much great danger to make in themselves late return freezes, incident in the middle lane, up to the 10th of June. It is they who come for the time of flowering of berry cultures and fruit trees, the appearance of shoots and landing in the soil seedlings of thermo-loving tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, for which sudden frosts are not just dangerous, but are detrimental.

The fact is that young leaves, flowers and buds are incredibly sensitive to cold and are not able to resist him. Under the influence of low temperatures, cell juice begins to freeze, which causes membranes breaks, leads to cell death and as a result, the death of the plants themselves.

Return freezers are not afraid of

A number of plants react to return freezes completely painlessly. These are primarily cold-resistant cultures that can withstand low temperatures without significant damage: parsley (up to -7 ...- 9 ° C), carrot(up to -5 ...- 7 ° C), celery(up to -3 ...- 5 ° C), as well as onion, dilland spinach- up to -5 ...- 7 ° C.



Petrushka freezing nipoese

Who can harm the spring frosts?

Some plants under the influence of even short-term sharp cooling can stop in growth. Other and completely freeze or significantly reduce yield.

If we talk about the bone cherry, apple, peach, pear, apricot, plum- then the temperature is destructive for their kidneys around -4 ° C. They are most vulnerable at the moment of flowering: then they may suffer at -2 ° C.



Fruit trees may seriously suffer from frosts during flowering

But the first, even at -1 ° C, suffer heat-loving culture and cultures growing close to earth. These include cucumbers, zucchini, berries, pumpkin etc., as well as young seedlings of floral crops, such as Kobei, Durma, Zinnia, etc.

With minor negative temperatures, it can seriously suffer and inappropriate or indefinitely rooted tomato seedlings, pepperor Baklazhanov. From freezing in -1 ... -2 ° C, it is unlikely to die, but it will definitely stop in growth, and the beginning of fruiting will delay at about 10-15 days. Therefore, in order to somehow save young rashes, do not forget a few days before the seedling seedlings in the ground ordering her, creating conditions in which plants will soon have to "settle".

How to predict return freezes

Despite the fact that in the last decade of winter, it was clearly warmer, the likelihood of spring return frosts increased. Of course, it is impossible to predict them 100%. But why not take advantage of the tips of nature and forecasts of weather forecasters, which, must be recognized, became quite accurate?



Blindly trust the forecast, heard, for example, on TV, is not worth it. Weather forecasters are the same people as we with you, and the technique does not give 100% warranty, so they can also be mistaken. In addition, the forecast may be faithful to your region, but not to your garden plot. Plants on your dacha may be damaged by frost, and in the adjacent - will remain intact. It depends on the different exposure of the slopes and relief of the area, as well as from the presence of a plot of forests and even reservoirs.

To be confident in the correctness of the forecast, it is better to compare the data from several sources (television, Internet, etc.). Nature itself will help to predict freezing, and you just need to be more careful. So, if in the evening the air temperature on the thermometer approached the marks +1 ... + 2 ° C, - most likely there will be a small frost, and all the thermal-loving plants need protection. Moreover the lowest temperatures are not at night, as many gardeners believe, And at sunrise.

About frost approximation also such factors as termination of precipitation, cloudless sky and wind streams. And vice versa, in windy, rainy or just cloudy weather the probability of frosts is minimal.

We protect the garden from return freezers

Methods of protection against frosts. Some of them are perfectly coping with the task. Others, as practice has shown, enough workors, are dubious or ineffective. It is impossible to consider them all within one article, so let's talk about the most popular: sprinkle, smoke, construct the shelter and applying fertilizers.

Rainted method

This method is used when the temperature drops to 0 ° C. For the sprinkle it is necessary to wear a small sprayer on the watering hose (the jet should be like a drop of rain) and completely spray with water trees and shrubs that may suffer from freezing. As water freezes, heat will be highlighted, saving for plants.



The beds with plants are also shed using a spray gun, which is on the hose (watering can), or with the help of a drip irrigation system. Watering is carried out in the evening, literally a few hours before the onset of expected freezers. As soon as the temperature drops closer to 0 ° C, water will gradually begin to evaporate. The resulting pairs will serve plants with reliable protection. The fact is that it has a lot of heat capacity, which means that cold air flows will not miss the land, and the plants will be able to silently transfer short-term freezing.

The method of sprinkling is considered quite effective in freezing about -5 ° C. True, he will help only in windless weather. IN otherwise Your efforts will simply disappear.

The smoke method

The smoke method as a means of protection of plants from frosts is one of the most popular for many years, or even decades. The essence of him is that fires and a warm chimney is created. It softens the negative effects of frosts on the plants.

Fuel can serve straw, sawdust, small brushwood, fond of foliage, potato tops and even manure. It is not so important which material will be the basis for saving fires. The main thing is to prevent its quick combustion: it is necessary that he does not burn, and the tel, highlighting a large number of smoke. For this, most of the above materials need to burn wet.



We divor the fire and create a smoke vest

The fire must be suitable in such a way that the smoke spread across the entire territory being processed. Determine in advance where the breeze blows (with a large wind, the smoke method does not make sense). One bonfire is about 1.5 m wide and 40-60 cm in height is enough for 1 weaving processing.

For its structure, a pre-harvested material is distributed in such a way: about 20 cm of dry material (leaves, twigs, straws, etc.) are laid below, and from above - a layer of wet (up to 40-60 cm), which will be the source of smoke. The three-chamber layer of the Earth is evenly distributed on top, leaving a small space in the center: through it will pass smoke.

All of the above is true in relation to small areas. If there was a need to apply the method of smoke on a large area (for example, in large gardens), it is more expedient to use bonfires, but smoke bombs.

The smoke starts as soon as the thermometer column approaches 0 ° C. It should continue until sunrise: it is then that the temperature reaches peak minus values. Therefore, the area should be covered with a thick layer of smoke.

Despite the popularity and number of advantages, the main of which is the relative simplicity of execution and low cost, this method and disadvantages have, because of which it is considered today, if not ineffective, at least dubious.

Method disadvantages:

  • The inability to use during a strong wind.
  • Non-environmentality. On the dangers of burning dry leaves and other garden garbage, we have already spoken and. And about how to utilize the foliage and other garden trash, you can read.
  • In order for the method to work, a small breeze must be present. Watch it at night during the freezing when the pressure is high, it is extremely rare. And there will be a small breeze that could break the warm smoke on the site, and there will be no sense from the smoke, the smoke will just go into the sky.
All these options for saving plants from frosts are good if you are on the site constantly or you can get to it quickly. But how to be the one who happens in the country rarely and the opportunity to take care of plants this minute does not have? The answer is simple: you are ideal for the following method in the fight against return free frosts - device shelter.

Shelters from improvised materials

Provide protection against recovery frosts will help simple facilities from various underfloor materials and a frame made of wood, reinforcement or metal-plastic pipes - that is, something like small guys.

The creation of such shelters will not take a long time, and special knowledge is not required for this, but the benefits will be huge. In addition, to dismantle them, if necessary, is as easy as to install.



The simplest shelter, which can be called a guy, it is easy to build from several identical pieces of metal-plastic pipes bent into the arc and installed in a row at a distance of approximately 50 cm from each other. From above, an ordinary dense film is stretched or any other covering material: in 1 layer in case of a small cooling and 2 layers, if the cooling promises to be stable. However, the construction of greenhouses was spent more than once:

  • From the article you will learn how to compose a greenhouse from ordinary wooden lattices and plastic film in just a couple of hours;
  • In the article will find interesting ideas and useful recommendations on the construction of greenhouses and simple film shelters without special costs;
  • The author in the article shares the personal experience of a greenhouse of a greenhouse from metroplastic pipes and underfloor material. And find out which passing materials, except for the plastic film, can be used to build shelters, from articles and.
To protect against frost flowering shrubs- Kariopteris, Cyanotus, David Buddha and others, is enough to wrap them with burlap, film or agrosphan. Strawberry flowers, perishing already at a temperature of about -1 ° C, before the onset of small frosts, it is also necessary to hide as agrosphan.

Small plants can be covered with cropped plastic bottles, paper caps or plastic buckets (large cups) from under sour cream.



An ordinary earth can become excellent shelter from frost. So that the shoots of potatoes are not injured, they are enough just to dip. Employed dipping will help protect the leaf mass and reliably protect the uterine tuber, which means that the frosts of potatoes will not be terrible. You can repeat the dips until the threat of return freezers is completely completely.



Exceptions are cases of planting potatoes mini and microclubs, botanical seeds, as well as grain and sprouts. The fact is that at the beginning of the growing season, these plants are still very weak. After emphasis, they simply will not be able to break through the thick layer of the soil and die.

Shelters from healthy materials perfectly coped with their task and reliably protect plants from frosts. The main thing, remember: no matter how protective material you use, he should not touch the leaves.

Protection in greenhouses and greenhouses

If freezes are expected in the area of \u200b\u200b-4 ...- 7 ° C, you will have to further take care of the inhabitants of greenhouses and greenhouses: they also need shelter.

To do this, you can use old newspapers, burlap or modern - agrosite, Loutrasil and so on.



In the case when plants inside the greenhouse do not work out (you will not shoot with the supports already grown tomatoes and cucumber leaves), warm need to have a greenhouse itself. To do this, build additional coating from the same materials. You can fasten it both outside and inside. Just not to fix the second coating close to the first, leave a small air clearance between them: so you are guaranteed to save all the "residents" of the greenhouses from frosts.

If plants need to be covered for several days, no matter where they grow - in open soil Or in a greenhouse, it is more expedient to use modern observing materials, more on which you can learn from the useful article. Remove shelter from plants is preferably not earlier than 8-9 in the morning.

Cobblestones I. plastic bottlesIt turns out that they can also be effective assistants in this matter. In order to protect the plants growing in the greenhouse from return freezers, spread the cobblestones near them or a plastic bottle of dark color in advance with water. Warring throughout the day, they will give warmly at night, working on the principle of heating batteries.

Effectively resist the destructive effects of frost (up to -5 ° C) and extractive feeders and.

You can use, for example, epin preparation, useful information about which you will find in the article. Thanks to the feeding in the tissues of young plants, the accumulation of sugars will increase, the content of free water will increase and the concentration of cell juice will increase, which means the plants will be reliably protected from freezing.



Important
: produce feeders that contribute to the increase in frost resistance of plants, it is necessary for 10-24 hours before the onset of freezing, otherwise there will be no sense from such procedures.

Probably, the ideal way to protect plants from return freezers does not exist. Each of the above is good in its own way, everyone has its drawbacks. Which one preferred is to solve only you. But whatever way you chose, plants in any case will be grateful for your care and give you a generous harvest.


The article is posted in sections :, Plant type

herbate

Family

Cruciferous (Brassicaceae)

Decorative and household qualities

The soil

neutral, sublinous

Humidity of soil

wet, moderately humid

Life expectancy

annual, twiser, perennial

Lightening

direct sunny rays

Reproduction

seeds

Section

Landing time

Once the cabbage was an extremely common garden plant. Today it is planted in its sites mainly rural residents who have a storage celler. And still owners of country houses and dacms preaching a healthy lifestyle and environmentally friendly products.

After all, cabbage is very useful, it contains vitamins A, B and C, folic and pantothenic acid. Vitamin C, by the way, in the leaves of late satisfies more than in mandarins and lemons. Cabbage is a source of minerals, mainly potassium, calcium, phosphorus, sulfur.

Recently, the decorative gardens were popular, and the aesthetically tuned gardeners were noted on it - this plant on a garden looks very impressive.

White cabbage It is not afraid of cold: adult plants endure freezing to -5-7 ° C. Therefore, it is possible to plant it in a considerable early, but to collect - late. All types of cabbage love light, moisture and fertile soil (loomalic neutral or slightly acidic). When landing, it should be borne in mind that during the thickening of seedlings is drawn up and does not forms kochanov. Therefore, it is necessary to plant it with an interval of 70 cm. Early cabbage, which does not form large kochanov, can be planted tightly, after 50 cm.

Read more: Growing seedlings Cabbage at home

Krasnochante and savoy cabbage They are varieties of white.

Cabbage moisture, but does not like water stagnation. The land around the landings is periodically loose.

During the summer, the cabbage needs to be contacted several times (infusable cowboat, chicken litter, biohumus).

Diseases and pests - cabbage fault, cruciferous fleece, cabbage weevil, cabbage flies, capping scoop, Repon and cabbage whitening, rapeseed sawder.

See also: Folk remedies From the pests of cabbage.

superSadovnik.ru.

What is the minus temperature withstands cabbage?

natla

If there is a question in mind that the minus temperature is withstanding seedlings of cabbage, it can be said that the tempered seedling of colored and white cabbage can withstand freezing to -3 - -4 degrees Celsius. It is emphasized that this is tempered seedlings, if you planted a greenhouse seedlings, and then the frost sank, it will not survive this temperature.

If I mean, when you clean the cabbage. It is recommended to do it when a couple of times will be freezing to -2 - -3 degrees. Freezing will help to remove bitterness from the cabbage and can be shedding such cabbage.

In principle, nothing terrible will not happen if freezing will be more freezing, but if the daily temperature is not a plus, then it should be urgently removed. Cabbage at room temperature will overtake, but it will no longer be crispy, after some time it will become soft.

Zolotynka.

Cabbage can transfer to -4 degrees Celsius temperature if the cooling period is short. Otherwise, the upper ridiculous leaves will block the access of oxygen to the leaves in the middle of the Kochan and it will form the so-called tumaki (dead place), as a result, such a cabbage quickly boots and becomes absolutely unsuitable for food.

It is known that, for example, the best cabbage for the calving - the one, which grabbed a light frost, so the cabbage is sometimes specifically left on the beds, but in this case you need to keep in mind that it will have to immediately process it immediately, this cabbage will not be stored.

lady V.

Cabbage is a rather frost-resistant plant. If the seedlings of cabbage to temper - create conditions close to "combat", street, then seedlings can withstand short-term freezing to minus 2-3 degrees. However, after all, it is better not to bring to such a situation and in a timely manner from the evening to cover the seedlings of cabbage film - you can just throw it on the ground over seedlings.

In the fall of cabbage even better holds cold. Rarely when it is cleaned before the first snow falling, especially in the regions where the snow falls early enough. Frost 5-7 degrees of cabbage takes place easily and even with salting will become more crispy.

Finally, the sauer cabbage is stored at a temperature of + 2-5 degrees, although the random hit under the frost is also not dangerous - the brine will reliably save it from freezing, and the only trouble - with the cabbage time it can become soft.

Ira Sergeeva

If it is due to the seedlings, the greenhouse non-hardened seedlings of freezing will not stand at all, the seedlings need to be hardened, whatever it can withstand freezing, hardened seedlings to -5 will accurately solve, but not long.

If you mean the kochana, it is better to remove the cabbage until it is freezing, it will certainly be able to withstand, but not more -5 and again not long.

fktif.

Cabbage is usually removed from the bed when the first frosts hit, and the cabbage can withstand a minus temperature to 5 degrees Celsius. But with a long-term exposure of even a small minor temperature, the cabbage will dispense, glazed and it will deteriorate when it is spoiled, so on its garden with the first frost it is necessary to cut cabbage.

Max899.

Cabbage loves a small frost and it only rustles from it. It is generally referred to as cold-resistant vegetables. Cabbage late varieties withstands the temperature - 4 - 5 degrees. All of course depends on the region. I live in the middle lane and the cabbage we usually collect in mid-October.

milonika.

Cabbage is better to clean after the first light frosts not exceeding the temperature minus four degrees. If the cabbage is fervor, it will very quickly begin to get started from the middle, even after you remove the upper frozen leaves. Such cabbage is not suitable for long storage.

Koluchiy.

Seedling grows with temperatura +12 +18 day and +8 +10 at night. As for the method of growing cabbage seedlings, he is like this:


A minus temperature will not survive any seedlings, so if at night the temperature drops below +5 - put the box home and put in the coldest place.

chacha777

Cabbage on average can withstand up to five degrees of frost as much as possible, if it comes to seedlings of cabbage, but the cape of a kochan can withstand the ten degrees of frost, just then the taste may change.

dolfanika

If the seedl of cabbage was harvested, it can, without prejudice to withstand the temperature to -5 frost. But this is seedlings white cabbage. And Brussels cabbage without damage, but not a very long time to withstand -10 degrees.

bolshoyvopros.ru.

What kind of negative temperature can withstand seedlings of cabbage?

What kind of negative temperature can withstand seedlings (young plants) cabbage?

  • up to -15 degrees with
  • up to -8 degrees with
  • up to -10 degrees with
  • up to -5 degrees with

sannu.

Cabbage - the plant is very unpretentious and sustainable freezing. Rather, even the white-baked cabbage is not afraid of frosts. So young cabbage plants can withstand freezes to -5 degrees C.

TASHENKA

Last year, I, having considered that Spring came, landed cabbage seedlings to open ground. But, as it turned out, Spring came raids, so there were freezing. I do not remember exactly what, but degrees minus three or five, probably it was. Cabbage was sitting in a garden in different places, one part was covered with a film, but about another and forgotten. Cabbage withstood, but the leaves from the cold were almost pink-purple. So small cabbage freezers are not afraid.

moreljuba.

Generally cabbage is a rather unpretentious plant and adapts well to different conditions. Cabbage seedlings can withstand temperatures up to -5 degrees C, so small frosts will not harm her. But the lower temperature is already undesirable for seedlings, I know it in my experience.

bolshoyvopros.ru.

Cauliflower

Cauliflower is more heat-loving than coaming. For its successful growth and development requires moderately warm weather, approximately 18 degrees.

How to grow colored cauliflower

Cold cabbage is best grown through seedlings. Direct sowing to the soil is undesirable. Early varieties can be seeded for 45-55 days before disembarking it into the ground. Early varieties are ready 100 days after germination. If you want to eat cauliflower in July, then sow it to seedlings follows in early March.

As mentioned above, the house seedlings are difficult to grow difficult because of too dry air, poor light and high temperature, so early seedlings can be made only in heated greenhouses, in heated loggias or on insulated balconies. Early sorts of cabbage can be sowed to the film greenhouses on biofuels already in mid-April, but then the crops must be bothering with double Loutrasil (in addition to the film on the greenhouses).

The middle-easned varieties grow about 120 days, and they should be soaked, respectively, in late April or early May, better in the greenhouse. But the middle-easier varieties can be sowed at home in early April. It is best to seed out cabbage in diapers from the film. To do this, on a piece of film size about 20x12 cm closer to one edge, wet soil is placed (1-2 tablespoons). Then the film slightly sweep the bottom edge and turn into the tube. So that the film is not spinning, put on the tube a rubber band and seed seed cabbage directly into this soil. The tubes make up tightly with each other in shallow tanks and put in the lightest place (on the windowsill). With 2-3 lists, the cabbage is planted under the shelter in the ground. You can sow seeds of cabbage in shallow feels, and as soon as the seeds will open well, to sip on the soil, which lies on the film, and turn the diaper, as mentioned above. The main thing in such a method of cultivation is not to pour an excessive cabbage to water, otherwise it can die the root system (from behind the black leg).

It takes about 150 days to grow and develop late varieties. Cabbage of any time ripening should not be sung all right away, it is better to drink it in 10-15 days, like radishes so that it was of different ages, Then you will have fresh heads constantly, throughout the summer, and eat them as ripening. You can create a continuous cauliflower conveyor due to the simultaneous sowing of cabbage of different maturation time, and you can create such a conveyor due to the constant subsection of seeds to seedlings through the intervals of ten days. You can grow part of the cabbage through seedlings, seeds for which are seeded in the greenhouse in late April or early May, and part of the seeds to sow directly into the ground in about the middle of the end of May.

Early varieties ripen until readiness from 75 to 85 days after germination. Varieties of the average ripening time requires 90 100 days, late varieties and hybrids - about 150 days. The casual cauliflower is seeded in June in greenhouses, its maturation period is about 200 days.

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Sowing at seedlings

Prepare containers for seeding seed seedlings. Before sowing, cauliflower seeds should be displaced, because on seeds, as a rule, there are causative agents of diseases. For this, it is enough to warm the seeds for 20 minutes in hot (52 degrees) in hot (52 degrees). The easiest way to maintain this temperature in the thermos. Young shoots are poorly tolerance. For them, the temperature is dedicated even minus 1 degree, so it is better to plant seedlings into the open ground after the frosts are run out, or the seedlings have to immediately cover with a double loaf and not to remove it until the frosts are passed.

By the time the seedling landing should have about 4-6 real sheets and a height of about 12-15 cm. Sometimes seedlings are very pulled out - it is bad. Sometimes it has a curved stem - it is insignificant. Sometimes it has a thin bottom of the stem, even dried, is unacceptable. Such seedlings need to be thrown out, as this is a sign of a starting disease with a black leg (the lower part of the stem is thin and black). The disease of the black leg facilitate too thickened crops and excess moisture in the soil. Thickened crops are strongly pulled out, the lower part of the stem at the same time begins to dying. To avoid this to determine enough to focus such seedlings, if there is no time to send it.

Seed out any cabbage, and color especially, does not like "communal", it prefers individual apartments, then it and a black leg, as a rule, do not get sick. That is why I sow it on seedlings immediately into separate containers, kules, lattices from the seedlings, which simply add to the ground around the edge of the greenhouse beds, and early, in the first days of May. Covering crops with double Loutrasil in case of too low temperatures at night. Sometimes small thickens are formed on the roots - this is a keel, such seedlings need to be thrown out.

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Transplant seedlings in the ground

1. Circuits under cabbage should be well refilled by organic. But under it it is impossible to make fresh manure, including horse. Do not remake with nitrogen fertilizers.

2. Before planting seedlings in the wells should be made according to the dessert spoon of calcium nitrate, pour a full well water.

Spring the seedlings so that the seedy leaves are in the soil, and the two first real feels for Earth. These leaves should be half sprinkled with the soil, which should be removed from the leaves in a couple of days. This will help keep all the leaves, while without this reception seedlings usually loses a couple of leaves when transplanting.

3. If by the time of transplanting to the seedling seedlings, they will construct a couple of the lower leaves. Do all the rest, as mentioned above. The seedlings are planted in the evening, they are watered well and dialed for 2-3 days with caps from the newspaper. In the future, the cabbage is well and regularly watered and fed, as she is a big lover to eat and drink. Most of all, she loves potassium and does not tolerate denunciation by manure.

4. As soon as the planted seedlings appeared a new sheet - she passed on, and immediately start doing feeding.

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Feeding, watering, care

Weekly (and with dry and hot weather 2-3 times a week), abundantly water under the evening with water. Every 2 weeks immediately after watering, make feeding, alternating organic and mineral one time. Organic feeding can be made by weeds or humate. For mineral feeding, you can use any mineral mixture containing nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, but it is necessary to add more than 1 spoon of any potash fertilizer to 10 liters of water to 2 span of any potash fertilizer on 10 liters of water and pour the root of each plant at 0.5 liters of solution. By the time of the tie of the head (with 5-7 large lifting leaves), cauliflower needs trace elements, especially in Bore and Molybdenum. The seedling houses are usually a couple of leaves add a boron to feeding (2 g per 10 liters of fertilizer solution) and ammonium molybdate in the same dose. But it is even better to use the unique fertilizer "Uniflor Micro" (or "Unifloorbuton"), adding 2 teaspoons of any of them for each jar of feeding. These fertilizers contain 14 microelements, besides, they are in chelated form, that is, they are enclosed in an organic shell, and such aggregates are absorbed by plants very quickly.

For cauliflower, as well as for any other, it is necessary to constantly maintain the soil slightly alkaline (pH 6.5-7.5). For this once every 2-3 weeks, the root of each plant is poured by the floor of a solution of calcium nitrate (3 tablespoons on 10 liters of water) or a solution of dolomite or lime (1 cup of lime or dolomite on 10 liters of water). Otherwise on acidic soils, as, for example, in the north west, not to avoid keel. Roots, infected by Kila, should not put in compost, they must be burned. At the place where Kila was, cabbage cultures should not be planted at least 4 years. The disputes of this mushroom disease can be maintained in the soil and in a compost up to 7 years. Kila lives only in acidic soils with a lack of copper in them. The beds infected with the inapounds should be very good to pour a solution of copper mood or "desi" (1 tablespoon per 1 liter of water - 3% solution). In addition, just in case, when growing cabbage, it should be regularly watered with a solution of "phytosporin".

Cauliflower - big whim. If at an early age it falls under low temperatures (4-5 degrees of heat) for a long time (about 2 weeks), then in the future it quickly crushes the head. If at night there will be 10-15 days to stand high temperatures (about 20 degrees), then it will happen the same. If when growing seedlings and in early deadlines Growth will dry the soil with insufficient watering, the cabbage gives small offshore heads, from which no further feeding and watering helps.

So that the cabbage does not dry the head, it is covered with dead-flown top leaves. The head in the cauliflower is a dense inflorescence not yet discontinued buds. As soon as the cabbage turns - the buds are revealed and the head disintegrates into separate twigs with flowers, that is, scattered. This can not be allowed, because the cabbage immediately loses not only its trade look, but also the taste. If the cabbage head darkened or slightly yellow because you did not closed it on time from the sun, do not be mistaken. The head is enough to put into water with citric acid (1 teaspoon per 1 liter of water) for a few minutes, and it will light up.

Often, you can read recommendations that after cutting heads ready for use in July, it is necessary to leave plants with powerful foliage on the beds, to obtain additional small heads that have grown in the sneakers of the leaves. For North West This recommendation itself, as a rule, does not justify. In the fall, the cauliflower is more resistant to scalded frosts than at an early age, and can be transferred without damage to frost up to minus 3-4 degrees, but just in case it is better to hide it with Loutrasil.

If the cabbage has grown a good leaf apparatus, but did not start the head to the end of September, and there is a threat that it can destroy freezing, it can be fused to the most frosts in the greenhouse and even in the basement, in the dark. To do this, it is digging with a lore land, put in boxes tightly to each other and leave in a greenhouse or basement. Cabbage will cover and develop only the heads of the head to normal due to nutrients accumulated by it in the lifting leaves. So do not hurry to extrude plants with large leaves, not yet tied heads by the end of September.

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Typical failures color when growing cabbage

Cabbage does not pin the head. Lack of nutrition and moisture during growth, landing overgrown seedlings, soil dryness, especially at an early age, too hot weather or, on the contrary, long-term cooling during growth. Sometimes gardeners remove the leaves to speed up the ripening, and the result gets the exact opposite (as well as in the case of a coastal cabbage). The same effect occurs with poor light. Cabbage can not be raised in a half or on a plot lit by the sun only half the day. She grows well only on a plot lit by the sun all day!

Cabbage tows a very small head. Again, in the case of insufficient nutrition and insufficient moisture content of soil and air, on poor soils, on dense, clay soils, on acidic soils, with diseases of Kila, with a lack of trace elements, especially boron and molybdenum. The head is scattered. Either turned, or you have made an excess of nitrogen into the soil, especially with a lack of potassium, or seedlings grew with a lack of moisture.

The reasons for the appearance of a dust, loose bad head: strongly stretched, overgrown with seedlings, lack of moisture, prolonged cooling, severe heat (above 25 degrees). The root system buys in the cabbage when putting into the soil when planting fresh manure, that is, with large amounts of nitrogen in the soil, with soil moisture above 90%. Cauliflower is sick with the same diseases as the Kochanne, and the same pests attack it, and therefore all the measures of prevention and control of them are the same.

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Useful properties of cauliflower

Cauliflower is not only tasty, but also useful. It is a dietary product because it contains easily assimilated vegetable proteinIt has all the necessary vitamins and trace elements. A cauliflower for children and older people are particularly useful because of the large content of calcium and potassium, which are necessary for the growth of the skeleton in children and with increased fragility of bones in old people. You can save cauliflower in the freezer or canned form. Moreover, when preserving it is impossible to put salt - will darken the head. As a preservative, sugar and citric acid are used (on 1 liter of boiling water it is necessary to take a tablespoon of sugar and a quarter of a teaspoon of citric acid).

gOLDENHENDS.RU.

Why is the cabbage seedlings?

Lyudmila Venedikovova

I live in the Altai Territory. Usually, I sow cabbage in a cold hotbed in late April-beginning of May (frame from the old door lay on the ground, sow cappust with rows by type, covering undercover material, sometimes additionally films - when it is cold and may go snow). Cabbage cold-resistant plant.
This year I decided to sow a Brussels cappist at home on seedlings early (in March). She climbed me, but I was terribly terribly, and when I transplanted it into a large container, then she died sneezing (we had a southern window, hot), even though I had it, and sprayed it, and put it in the most shaded place. I think that she could not stand such tropical conditions as we have in the room.
Maybe your seedlings are also hot. Try to remove it from the sun, put it in a cool place (put it on the balcony or near the window to put) - for the sample at least several plants. Spray it (only not under the right rays of the sun). Good luck to you!

igor Pavlov

Cabbage can be obtained very early by sowing in place under the film, and it is better for Loutrasil. Cabbage shoots can withstand freezes to 2-3 °. We manage to plant the seedlings already in the heat when she faded.

The difference between the cabbage seedlings in the fact that it should be squat and tempered, and this is possible at a temperature of 15-18 °, not higher. Heating of plants under the film drives out tender, large leaveswhich are easily wound when transplanting into the ground. And to lose the leaves of seedlings - it means to lose Polkochan. Therefore, I prefer to spend money on Loutrasil. Possible!

Love Kuznetsova

After landing or dive, it is necessary to cast the seedlings - it also has a weak root system - it is necessary for a lot of water; Clean the cool place in the shadow. And if you have already planted into the ground, then cover from the straight sun, - cover with paper caps, for example. Good luck!

New day

My opinion - you will not save it. Sota new, immediately in the ground, in the garden. Then pick up the way you need. Either in the container, but keep it on the balcony.

Galina Kurmaeva

better to greenhouse

How to plant seedlings | House and Dacha.ru | House and Dacha.ru.

With the onset of spring, the country season can be considered open. After the winter holiday, it is so nice to return to your favorite business and take care of the future crop. If the Earth managed to warm up solar heat enough, and the frost threat passed - hence, it's time to plant seedlings into the ground. About how to plant seedlings Teach home and dacha will tell.

It is known that vegetables are grown in two ways: repentable and reckless (seed). Each of them has advantages and disadvantages. The reckless way is more economical, since there is no need to build greenhouses, greenhouses, film shelters. The plants are formed a root system, which is capable of penetrating to a depth of 1.5 meters, which reduces the amount of irrigation.

A seaside method of growing vegetables is more difficult, but it has much more advantages:

Obtaining early, high harvest;

Reducing the cost of combating pests;

Selection of the most healthy and developed plants for planting in open ground;

The possibility of cultivation of crops, with a long period of vegetation;

Reducing the consumption of seeds, the exclusion of the risk of their bad gem;

In order for your efforts and efforts to be crowned with success, it is necessary to properly plant seedlings. For this you need:

1. Choose seedlings

Seedlings can be raised independently, and you can buy it ready. In any case, seedling must be high quality. When choosing seedlings pay attention to the state of the root system, the number and color of real leaves, strong stems, the absence of signs of diseases.

2. Prepare the soil

The preparation process largely depends on the soil, its type and acidity. Often compost or manure are brought in autumn, and in the spring, liquid feeders for plants are used or a squeaking fertilizer is carried out directly in the wells. It should be borne in mind that in different plants the need for organic and mineral fertilizers is different. Under the preparation of the soil also implies the choice of a suitable area and good precursors. For example, do not properly plant tomato seedlings after eggplant or potatoes, the best predecessors for tomatoes is cabbage or cucumbers.

3. Sorcely plant seedlings

"The correctness" means compliance with the planting technology of seedlings of different cultures. Site House and Dacha.ru will remind the rules for planting the main vegetable crops.

How to plant cabbage seedlings

Cabbage - the most frost-resistant vegetable culture is able to withstand freezing to -7 ° C. To obtain an early harvest, seedlings are covered with film coating. As for late varieties of cabbage, it is correct to plant seedlings in early June to get a harvest in the fall.

Cabbage seedlings are better to plant on cloudy rainy days or in the afternoon. The depth of planting into the soil is the level of the first real leaves. Cabbage needs abundant irrigation, but in the first week after planting it sprayed from the watering can.

How to plant tomato seedlings

If night frosts have already ended, it's time to plant tomato seedlings. Plants plant in wells that are abundantly poured with water and make fertilizers. The depth of planting is to the level of the first sheet. The tomato has a property of giving side roots, so the seedlings are slightly tilted when landing into the ground, they plunge and stop watering for a week. The optimal width between the rows is 60 cm. After planting the soil, the soil is mounted and installed backups for future tomato bushes.

How to put the seedlings of cucumbers, patissons, pumpkins, zucchini

These cultures are very poorly transferred to the transplant, so it is necessary to plant right in peat pots, in which they were grown in the greenhouse. At the time of transplanting to open, seedlings must have short interstices and 2-3 real leaves. Any damage to the root system or leaves impairs the accessibility and delays the beginning of fruiting. Before planting, the soil is poured abundantly, there are no less than half a meter between the wells. The dates of landing coincide with the dates of planting a tomato.

How to plant pepper and eggplant seedlings

These are the warmest plants with a long period of vegetation, so by the time of transplanting them must already be formed by 6-8 leaves. Peppers and eggplants are planted into a well-swollen soil, to the depth of fastening the seedlings. The leaves sprinkle the earth can not. After planting the soil, the soil is well and mulched. Sweet and bitter pepper can not be planted nearby.

In summer cottages, onions, celery, spicy herbs, flowers are successfully grown by a seaside way. Learn how to properly plant seedlings easily, the main thing is not to forget the basic rules concerning all cultures: to choose the seedlings correctly, comply with the deadlines, ensure the desired humidity, to provide plants after landing.

    Cabbage Belococci (Brassica Capitata (L.) Pers.) - a two-year plant of the family of cabbage (cruciferous).

    In the first year of life, a kochan is formed, which represents the top kidney with a large number of leaves, tightly adjacent to each other, the plant blooms on the second year of life and gives seeds.

    The cultivation of white cabbage begins with the cultivation of seedlings. In order to get a good yield of cabbage, it is necessary to have a high-quality seedlings. This is especially affected in years with adverse weather conditions. If in favorable years with high quality seedlings, the yield of kochanov increases by 30-50%, then in unfavorable - 2-3 times. That is why the quality of seedlings in its cultivation should be paid special attention.

    The cultivation of seedlings passes in the period of unstable spring weather in a protected ground - in film greenhouses, greenhouses or cold raids. The main condition for the rapid appearance of friendly shoots is the temperature of the soil. Normal is the temperature of 15-20 ° C.

    The quality of seedlings and its subsequent growth on the plot is largely determined by the temperature-light mode.

    After the appearance of germs is very important for 2-3 days the air temperature sharply reduce to 7-10 ° C, and enhance ventilation and illumination to prevent the plant stretching. Otherwise, for one day, the satellite knee from cabbage can stretch to 4-5 cm and more. In the event that it will still happen, the cabbage seeds must be crossed, since it is impossible to grow good seedlings with such advocates. Night elevated temperatures are particularly unacceptable, in which plant pulling is more accelerated (the night temperature should be 4-5 ° C below day). That is why in the first days after the appearance of germs, the light saturation should be the most complete, without any shades, and the temperature is reduced, especially at night. Such conditions contribute to the growth of roots and leaves, the formation of a healthy "squat" seedlings. For the same reason, you need to immediately play germs if they are thick to avoid their self-conception and pulling.

    The optimal temperature during the period of growing seedlings is 12-24 ° C. A good seedlings grows at a temperature of 12-17 ° C. At a temperature of 31 ° C seedlings already have ugly leaves. By the time of landing in the soil, the seedlings should have 5-6 leaves and a good root system.

    Cabbage shoots are very sensitive to frost. They die at temperatures - 3 ° C. If the seedlings are prepared in cold seats and with enhanced phosphorus-potash nutrition, it is well tempered and withstands freezing to - 3 ... - 5 ° C. But from the seedlings that fell under frost is formed by a lower yield of Kochanov. When freezing -10 ° C, seedlings landed in the ground dies.

    Adult plants in the phase of the technical ripeness of the Kochan carry freezes to - 5 ... -7 ° C. Late-resistant sortes of cabbage to frosts resistant by 1-2 ° C. Low adaptation temperatures from 3 to 10 ° C increase the ice-resistance of the cabbage. But the high temperature (above 35 ° C) depresses the cabbage, slows down the growth and formation of Kochan. In this case, abundant irrigation, such oppression is removed. The optimal daytime temperature for adult plants at which they normally assimilate and grow, is 13-18 ° C.

    With an increase in air temperature at 1 ° C in the temperature range from 10 to 20 ° C, the duration of the period from the seedlings to the ground before the start of the economic shelf life of the kochanis in different varieties of white cabbage differs significantly. It changes in different ways and the duration of the period from the beginning of the economic shelf life of Kochanov to their massive economic fitness.

    Cabbage is a moisture-loving plant. But the requirements of it to ensure water change depending on age. So, for germination of seeds, heightened humidity is necessary, a moderate humidity is maintained before the planting seedlings. The need for water increases as the number of leaves increases and reaches its maximum during the formation of Kochan. During the ripening period, watering can be limited, otherwise the increased humidity can lead to cracking of the kochanov. Cabbage is very sensitive to overcoat. Excess moisture in the soil detains its growth and can lead to the death of plants.

    Light cabbage. It does not make shading, especially when shooting and the seedlings phase appear. With intensive solar lighting increases yield, improves chemical composition And the quality of the Kochan. Therefore, the cabbage is better not to plant in the gardens between the trees, where the shading is inevitable.

    As a cold-resistant culture, white cabbage can be eradicated everywhere. Now it is grown even behind the polar circle. The presence of various varieties of different maturation time allows the use of white cabbage in fresh form throughout the year.

    By calories, white cabbage is inferior to many vegetable cultures. But on the content of vitamins it is difficult for her to find equals. Moreover, ascorbigen was found in the cabbage juice - the most stable type of vitamin C, which is 50 times more in the cabbage than in the potato cheese.

    From time immemorial, known and medical properties Cabbage. Its juice is used in the treatment of stomach and duodenal ulcers. Potassium salt in it enhance the removal of fluid from the body and increase the work of the heart muscle. IN folk medicine The cabbage is used as an external agent for burns, bruises, inflammatory processes, brine to be sprinkled with the mouth with a burst of gums.

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    So happens from year to year with many gardeners, gardens that the seedlings manage to freeze! Despite the fact that, and how to save seedlings from return freezers.

    And then again a flurry of questions about whether it is possible to save the frozen seedlings or everything!

    Today we will talk about emergency methods of resuscitation of frozen plants. I hope for many this information will come in handy ...


    If it happened that the seedlings were frozen, then you should not lower your hands. Yes! Sorry of course: so many works and money is invested! And they can succeed can and not everyone, but you need to try! Of course, for the rich, this is not a problem - I went and bought a new seedlings. But not everyone has the opportunity, and the purchase of seedlings can always disappoint or surprise in the future.



    But the frozen seedlings do not need to be hurry to throw away. The first rule to save dying, be something:, frost, heat, lack of light, temperature changes or disease, is the spraying of plants with epin drug.




    Epino is helpful to spray young plants and, as well as plants, undergoing stress: freezing, breakdown branches, invasion, disease, etc. Before spraying plants, if possible, eliminate the cause of damage / disease. Epin is not a medicine or panacea, it is an effective means of rehabilitation and maintaining plant health at all stages of their growth and development.

    The recommendation spray plants in the early morning or late in the evening is due to the fact that with the sunlight the active ingredient of epin, epissensinolide, very quickly disappears, and there will be little time from the day spraying.

    In addition, spray only vegetative parts of plants - branches and leaves, not forgetting (if possible) moisturize with a solution and lower parts of sheets. Spraying in stressful conditions (drought, lack of light, disease, etc.) produced once in 7-10 days, up to complete recovery of plants. If your pets are quite healthy, spray them three times in the season.

    Standard epin solution, which is suitable for spraying almost all gardening and garden crops: 1 ampoule (0.25 mg) on \u200b\u200b5 liters of water.

    Another nuance: water from the tap, which we usually use is alkaline, and the crack significantly reduces the beneficial effect of epina. Therefore, before breeding the drug in water, add several citric acid crystals to it. Epin is absorbed by the plant for 2-3 days, so spraying must be carried out in non-rainy windless days.

    It is even better to prepare a magical compote from a healthy garden, ecooberin, HB - 101 and epin. Then, surely your plants will come to life and at the same time get the crop ransom! But these drugs are sold in the centers of natural agriculture, if there are those in your city, it is good, and Epin and HB are sold in all ordinary garden shops.

    Restorative functions of vegetables!

    Many plants have a natural recovery function. For example, tomatoes and peppers are allowed from the stem side shoots and leaves. Therefore, they should not be removed if frosts grabbed them, of course, if the frosts were not by the soil! But only surround them with increased attention and give time. And they will come to life! Some frozen plants after processing biopreparations were covered at the time with cardboard boxes and it helped:


    Always remember that in time laid and underfloor material always protect our cultures from adverse weather conditions. Pay more attention to your crumbs and they will grow strong and healthy!

    If you need help in mastering the site and in everything that concerns natural agriculture in general, you can get Individual consultation ! This will help avoid mistakes and speed up the process of restoring the Earth!

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    Grow a good yield Cauliflowernot difficult. Thus, you will provide yourself with the reserve of the entire complex of vitamins and mineral salts.

    Hello friends and guests of the block!

    1. Cauliflower is a vegetable rich in vitamins and mineral salts, an easy product.

    Cauliflower - Always considered a delicacy. It is used in dietary nutrition, it prepares many delicious and nutritious dishes from it. The part of the plant used in food is a head formed from fleshy flowers that have grown together. This culture can be fruit under film shelters since May and October.

    2. Cauliflower is very demanding of the fertility and moisture of the soil, the temperature regime.

    Cultivating cauliflower should be taken into account that cultivation conditions depend on the cultivation time. Designed for early collection of cabbage, it is better to grow in greenhouses. When disembarking in open ground, you need to choose warm, solar places. One of the mandatory conditions of a good harvest is an increased humidity. In the shade, cauliflower grows by a densely abusive, and the heads are fine and unspoken. This culture grows best on the rich humid and squeaned soils. With poor soil - do not skimp on feeding. Almost any culture can serve as a predecessor for cauliflower. It is only not desirable to plant it after representatives of the cross-tech family. Color cabbage in some areas are grown on the same places for several years, and at the same time they receive excellent crops, but in the middle strip. Moreover, in the northern regions, it is better not to risk and carry out the alternation of cultures in one place.

    3. Sow cauliflower into several techniques.

    If the spring was crushed early and warm, and the soil warmed well, you can land a cauliflower into the ground already at the end of March - early April. Only in this case should be a temporary film shelter. And to guarantee the preparation of a good first harvest, use the greenhouse or greenhouse. The time from the moment the seedlings falling down to ripening the heads will be 50-55 days, so cauliflower does not prevent landing and growth of the main guests of the greenhouse - tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers.

    Matures cauliflower Not at the same time. In the greenhouse harvesting lasts 1-2 weeks, on the beds - 3-4 weeks, and in the fall - the whole month. Therefore, if you want all summer to be talked with gentle, delicious inflorescences, sow it with a periodicity of 3-4 weeks. The deadline for the seeding varies from July 10 to July 20 for different local climatic conditions. Cauliflower - excellent outfit culture. It can be safely planted after harvesting early vegetables so that the soil is not empty.

    4. It is very important to choose the right cabbage varieties.

    Sorts with a short period of vegetation are suitable for cultivation in a protected ground. But it is necessary to take into account that even in greenhouses can get a small, universal view of the head in adverse weather conditions. Good crop guarantee - Friendly spring, with an abundance of sunny days. The most common (and most reliable) average varieties, which are sown in May and fruit in July - August. It should be treated carefully to the varieties of late, with a long period of vegetation - there is always a risk that in our climatic conditions they will not have time to grow.

    5. Pledge of guaranteed good harvest - good seedlings

    Sign of healthy seedlings is a strong bush, with dark green leaves. In order not to delay the growth of plants, the seedlings are planted together with a room of land, and best of all right in peat pots. The full heads will not grow out of the underdeveloped seedlings suffering from a lack of nutrients, as well as from the overshades.

    You can sow cauliflower in the greenhouse already at the end of February - or in pots, or immediately with rows of bed. It is not superfluous to promulate the planting cabbage with a mixture of peat and sand, it will greatly facilitate germination. Seedlings transplanted at a permanent place in 7-8 weeks.

    By performing these simple recommendations, you will grow a good cauliflower harvest.

    6. Seals when growing cauliflower can only be radishes and green crops because it quickly grows.

    Redish in the alarms is seeded with a distance in a row of 3-5 msdvumy rows. At the same time, radishes should be early, with a short time of vegetation.

    7. Depending on the variety, a cauliflower planting scheme is taken.

    A cauliflower under glass and a film can be planted at a distance of 30 × 40 cm or 40 × 40 cm. For early varieties in the open ground, it is better to stick to the scheme 40 × 40 cm or 50 × 40 cm. Middle-friendly varieties are recommended to plant with a distance of 50 × 50 cm. Late varieties are more busy and they require greater "housing" - 60 × 60 cm. When landing seedlings of early varieties should not be too plumming. It is desirable that the roots of the seedling are in a more heated sun, near-surface, layer. This will significantly accelerate the growth of the plant early spring. After planting plants, in two weeks they must be dipped.

    8. Since cauliflower is afraid of frosts, build "Protective Shalashik" for it.

    Each cabbage cottage hung up to mid-May, an indigestion owner necessarily takes a special cap or underfloor material. Also early in spring, when the danger of frosts is especially great, it is possible to cover the garden with a repeated film with a perforated film (300 holes per square meters. M), it is tightened to frames with a height of 10-12 cm with such a calculation so that the film creates a suitable microclimate and at the same time Not font of plants. Using this method, you can get a cauliflower harvest for 6-8 days earlier. The film is cleaned 2-3 weeks after planting seedlings, depending on the weather).

    9. Cauliflower spoke well on fertilizers like mineral and organic.

    Therefore, it is recommended to grow it on soils, well-fertilous. In addition, the cauliflower needs to be made 3-5 feeding (5 g of nitrogen per square meter. M), first three weeks after disembarking. You can also feed and cow. Microelements are useful for cauliflowers - molybdenum and boron are especially important.

    Cauliflower Prefers soil with a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction (pH 6.8-7.2). On the soils with an acidic reaction, it is necessary to carry out the spring.

    10. To obtain a guaranteed crop require regular plant care.

    Cauliflower Does not tolerate droughts and responsive to wet soil. During the tie of the heads, three-four-day thirst can destroy the harvest! During the vegetation, it is necessary 4-5 times to arrange "general watering": up to two buckets of water for each square. At the same time, it is impossible to allow soil drying, plants should be regularly water. Excellent results gives the mulching of the soil with organic materials while the moisture remains, remains a loose soil, after the rains it does not form a solid crust. If you do not ring the soil for any reason, then you need to systematically tell the weeding and loosen the land.

    11. It is important not to miss the harvest time!

    Heads cut off, preventing the separation of inflorescences. In the heat they quickly pepper, darken and divided. Although new varieties are more resistant to the effects of the Sun, it is better to be renewed and pronounced heads with a broken or bound by the "tent" leaves. Cold cabbage late varieties are collected in front of frost. Non-leaving plants can be transferred to growing in a greenhouse and vigorously water. You can leave cabbage and in the garden, building a film shelter, as in spring.

    Cauliflower recipes can see

    By completing these uncomplicated recommendations, you are guaranteed to grow a good crop of cauliflower and provide yourself with a margin of vitamins and mineral salts.

    How did you like the information, was she helpful to you?

    What tricks do you use when growing cauliflower (after all, each gardener has its secrets). Write your feedback in discussions at the bottom of the page.

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