What temperature tolerates cabbage. Cool-resistant white cabbage. Protection in greenhouses and greenhouses

Clearly became seedlings on the windowsill. Yes, and in the loggia - also not very nice. I want a real straight sun, gentle breeze. Seedling asks for space, to the ground. Finally, seedlings goes to the country. Now let's start preparing for landing at a permanent place.

Quenching

Before planting seedlings into an open or closed soil, you need to hold events on her hardening. Warm seedlings are not able to form an early harvest in sharp differences of day and night temperatures.

First of all, you need to teach it to sunny rays. Otherwise, gentle plants will receive ultraviolet burns - white spots on the leaves. We will pass to the Sun gradually, starting from 15 minutes a day. With each day, sunbaths will lengthen about 5, and then for 10-15 minutes. Plants in front of the eyes will get acquired "tan", i.e. Lightly darken in color. At the same time, they will be accustomed to large quantity Oxygen-rich air to the wind.

Last 7-10 days before landing, seedlings need to be minimal, because Watering leads to a greater tenderness of the tissue.

We will definitely teach the seedlings to low night temperatures. The biggest effect of adaptation to reduced temperatures is obtained, if a week before landing, lower the night temperatures up to 8-12 ° C. For this, the seedlings will begin to leave on the street not only the day, but also at night. Good result Gives spraying seedlings "epic".

May is the main time of the seedling seedling both in the open ground and in the greenhouses. Space cabbage, parsley, celery, fennel, tomatoes, often peppers with eggplants. It should be noted that all the period below refer to the time when there was not yet selected global warming. At that time, night freezes were almost annually. However, over the past two years, there were no such frosts. If such "pleasantness" in the weather will continue, then the seedlings can be planted earlier than I wrote. In any case, we will carefully follow the weather.

Plant seedlings in open soil

In May, we start to plant cabbage seedlings on the bed. Ordered seedlings white cabbage Withstand freezing to -3-5 OS, color - up to -2 OS. However, a lower harvest is obtained from the seedlings that have fallen under such frost.

Therefore, the usual, years spent the timing of the seedling seedlings so that it does not suffer from frosts, the following. In the first decade of May, we plant the seedlings of the earliest white cabbage, Savoy, part of the seedlings of broccoli cabbage, as well as seedlings of white-cooked cabbage late varieties. If strong night frosts are not expected, then you can plant several cauliflower plants - for an early harvest.

Each plant is pulled in the soil almost "on the ears", i.e. to seedlings. If the seedlings stretched very much, you have to burst up almost to the point of growth. Before this, the bottom leaves need to gently tear out, the resulting wounds to dry. It is useful for each plant throw a paper cap to protect against the sun, on top of everything it would be nice to wear a bottle of water with a cut bottom.

After a day, others clean the newspaper in the evenings, when the sun starts to sit down, and then day. A few days later you can remove the bottle. With such protection, plants are not pulled out and easily carries out without loss of existing leaves. In the case of night freezers, the newspaper and the bottle can be returned to the place.

In the middle decade of May, we sit in the seedlings of the white ripening cabbage of medium ripening - for salting, cauliflower seedlings. At the end of the decade, we land the remains of the early varieties of broccoli and cauliflower so that the harvest of these crops is stretched. Also landing the seedlings of Beijing and leaf Japanese cabbage. In mid-May, it is good to plant the seedlings of the red and the Savoy cabbage late varieties. If you did not have time or did not allow the weather, you can find it all and in the last decade. Shipping technique is the same as early varieties.

Around the middle of May, planted Cherry Celery seedlings. Root celery seedlings are planted in approximately in the middle or end of May, when the average daily air temperature will translate for 10 OS. Previously, planting is not worth it, because in the case of a protracted cold spring, the plants can go to the stem.

Claimed seedlings can withstand freezes to -4 OS. When disembarking, you must try not to disturb the earthen com. Watch also so that the growth point is not covered with the soil. The same refers to seedlings of vegetable fennel. Seedlings of leaf celery and parsley can be planted earlier.

Tomatoes

At the end of May, it is possible to plant street tomatoes seedlings. Specific landing deadlines are very dependent on the weather.

How to determine the time for disembarking? It is very important to landing seedlings in the ground. It is known that not within the time of the landed plants of tomatoes sharply reduce yields. It is customary to plant seedlings in open sad At the end of the night frosts - this is in our area on June 10 (the date is indicated to the global warming), or even later.

However, the June frosts are in our region 2-3 times in a decade. And plant in so late time - So losing a crop. Therefore, to obtain an early harvest, you can risk and land on May 20-25, part of the seedlings, the rest of the death for a re-disembarkation.

If you are in the country permanently, you can land all the seedlings at once and in the case of frosts it is easy to hide it.

there is people's way definitions of landing seedlings in open soil or under temporary film shelters - this is when the kidneys start blooming fruit trees. True, in our field the trees can be wrong.

Better when disembarking seedlings to navigate the temperature. So, at 10 OS, the tomato does not grow, it means that seedlings do not take care. When freezing -3, the plants are badly damaged, at -4 OS seedlings dies completely.

Some varieties of tomato withstand freezing -2 OS, however, give a low-quality harvest. The plants after a long depression of frost begin to grow, but far behind the flowering and form fruit when the season is already over. Freezing -1 OS may not damage the plants outwardly, but they delay the beginning of fruit formation for 10-15 days. Moreover, the yield falls at 70-75% compared with plants, under freezing not falling. Consequently, landed seedlings should not fall even under weak freezing.

Seed out the seedlings early deadlines Dangerous not only because of frosts, but also due to the low temperature of the soil. Sign of plants hypothermia - purple shade of stems. Such plants are far behind the growth. For example, scientists lead such results: when planting seedlings, when the soil temperature was 10-15 ° C, 132 g of fruits were obtained from one plant "Ground Mushroom" grade, from them a single ripe. At the temperature of the soil, 15-20 OS has already received 379 g of fruits, of which it was completely matured on the bushes of 318. Impressive results. Moreover, it was found that with a lack of heat there is a growth of stems, leaves, roots, but the plants do not bloom, do not tie fruits. Therefore, it is not necessary to hurry with the planting seedlings in the soil or to a greenhouse, as it is impossible to be late. After all, the most useful and delicious fruits are those that ripe on the plant, and not in a warm corner in Valenka.
Therefore, you need to try in advance to warm the greenhouse and the bed in the open soil, covering them with a film.

If you live constantly at the cottage, seedlings can be saved from frosts, just undergoing it with something warm. In any case, seedlings on the street is useful to cover Loutrasil. Therefore, you need to carefully follow the weather, and if freezing is expected, it is expected to hide the landing. Or wait for it and fall out a few days later.

Plants when disembarking shuffle into the soil to the first real leaves. If the seedy leaves are preserved by this time, then they can be deleted, and the rings formed on the stem.

Plant seedlings in the greenhouse

In the greenhouse, the seedlings are usually planted for two weeks earlier than in the open ground. Here you do not need to hurry, it will not work out anyway. As mentioned above, if the seedlings of tomatoes fall into cold soil, the harvest on such bushes will be low. What I once got when I planted seedlings in early May. It is better to overcome your desires to collect harvest before the neighbor, and start planting when the soil at a depth of 10 cm warms up to 15 OS, and better - even more. But no lower than 10 OS.

When disembarking, seedlings do not need to forget that the tomato is one of their most light-affiliated plants, so one of the main rules must be completed - not to compensate for the landing. Otherwise, it will not be possible to grow large fruits, and the chances of getting sick in plants increase significantly.

If you resorted to the help of biofuels, or you have a stationary greenhouse, then the seedlings can be planted even earlier, at the temperature of the soil at the bottom of the roots that must be measured before landing.
In the case of freezing, seedlings are covered in an additional film with an additional film or by observing material.

Ways to landing

It is necessary to plant seedlings in such a way that the root system is in the ground are not deeper than 20 cm. If the seedlings are strong and squat, it is planted vertically. If the stretched, dear, then you will have to break off all the extra leaves on the eve, so that the wounds dried, and plant it in the troves in the position of half a liter.

Dug-off tranches need to quickly pour warm water and lower the root system and part of the plant stem. Fall asleep. Everything, the plant is planted. At the same time, the top with the leaves should look south to the soubell, protected by leaves, did not receive sunburn. The stem without leaves will be covered with land, and in the future new roots will grow.

Tomatoes are better to plant not at the soil level, but on the elevated ridges, at least 15-20 cm, to improve the temperature and air regimes.

If it is hot solar weather, plants can be covered with a newspaper for several days until they come down. Then the newspapers gradually remove, first for the night, and then day. The first 10-15 days after the plant landing is recommended not to water so that the roots that are formed by the plant grew into the depth, and not at the surface. Although some experienced gardeners believe that, on the contrary, it is necessary to pour out lined plants every day. Then the plants will be stronger, and the crop will be higher. Try, respected gardens, water and so and so, and share the experience gained.

Peppers

Before the landing in a greenhouse, I do not allow plants to bloom, mercilessly pluck not only bud in the first fork, but also other buds that are going to bloom. The first bloom is allowed only after landing in a greenhouse. Experience shows that the harvest with such a landing is obtained significantly higher. Many gardeners rejoice that they have already formed in the soil with a landing in the ground. And in vain, because seedlings in the strings are getting harder than in buds.

I plant peppers in one greenhouse with tomatoes and eggplants. Peppers land "with their team", they love wet air than tomatoes.

Peppers - culture is more thermalized than tomatoes. So, at a temperature of 13 OS, the pepper is no longer growing. Therefore, seedlings are planted in a greenhouse even later than tomatoes. Often you have to land it not in May, and in the first decade of June, when the night frosts will be completed.

When landing for each plant, the back of the hole, I pour warm water there, and I lower the roots, trying to cry out a little earthen com - it's better that the roots are growing. I fall asleep the earth in such a way that the root neck will open no more than 1 cm. Usually, the seedlings are formed in the seedlings, the root hooks are formed, from which additional roots increase. The distance between the plants is 40-45 cm.

The bushes grow up to 80 cm, they shadow each other slightly. But this does not prevent them from developing normally and even goes to benefit, protecting against too bright July Sun, from an excess of which plants suffer.
After disembarking, seedlings shelter from the sun with newspapers. If the day is very hot, spraying plants with warm water, you can pour out from the watering can right on the newspaper. Shading remove the week in two when the seedlings take root and wague.

Text: Lyubov Bobrovskaya

"Gardening" № 5 (58), 2012

Cabbage Belococci (Brassica Capitata (L.) Pers.) - a two-year plant of the family of cabbage (cruciferous).

In the first year of life, a kochan is formed, which represents the top kidney with a large number of leaves, tightly adjacent to each other, the plant blooms on the second year of life and gives seeds.

The cultivation of white cabbage begins with the cultivation of seedlings. In order to get a good yield of cabbage, it is necessary to have a high-quality seedlings. This is especially affected in years with adverse weather conditions. If in favorable years with high quality seedlings, the yield of kochanov increases by 30-50%, then in unfavorable - 2-3 times. That is why the quality of seedlings in its cultivation should be paid special attention.

The cultivation of seedlings passes in the period of unstable spring weather in a protected ground - in film greenhouses, greenhouses or cold raids. The main condition for the rapid appearance of friendly shoots is the temperature of the soil. Normal is the temperature of 15-20 ° C.

The quality of seedlings and its subsequent growth on the plot is largely determined by the temperature-light mode.

After the appearance of germs is very important for 2-3 days the air temperature sharply reduce to 7-10 ° C, and enhance ventilation and illumination to prevent the plant stretching. Otherwise, for one day, the satellite knee from cabbage can stretch to 4-5 cm and more. In the event that it will still happen, the cabbage seeds must be crossed, since it is impossible to grow good seedlings with such advocates. Night elevated temperatures are particularly unacceptable, in which plant pulling is more accelerated (the night temperature should be 4-5 ° C below day). That is why in the first days after the appearance of germs, the light saturation should be the most complete, without any shades, and the temperature is reduced, especially at night. Such conditions contribute to the growth of roots and leaves, the formation of a healthy "squat" seedlings. For the same reason, you need to immediately play germs if they are thick to avoid their self-conception and pulling.

The optimal temperature during the period of growing seedlings is 12-24 ° C. A good seedlings grows at a temperature of 12-17 ° C. At a temperature of 31 ° C seedlings already have ugly leaves. By the time of landing in the soil, the seedlings should have 5-6 leaves and a good root system.

Cabbage shoots are very sensitive to frost. They die at temperatures - 3 ° C. If the seedlings are prepared in cold seats and with enhanced phosphorus-potash nutrition, it is well tempered and withstands freezing to - 3 ... - 5 ° C. But from the seedlings that fell under frost is formed by a lower yield of Kochanov. When freezing -10 ° C, seedlings landed in the ground dies.

Adult plants in the phase of the technical ripeness of the Kochan carry freezes to - 5 ... -7 ° C. Late-resistant sortes of cabbage to frosts resistant by 1-2 ° C. Low adaptation temperatures from 3 to 10 ° C increase the ice-resistance of the cabbage. But the high temperature (above 35 ° C) depresses the cabbage, slows down the growth and formation of Kochan. In this case, abundant irrigation, such oppression is removed. The optimal daytime temperature for adult plants at which they normally assimilate and grow, is 13-18 ° C.

With an increase in air temperature at 1 ° C in the temperature range from 10 to 20 ° C, the duration of the period from the seedlings to the ground before the start of the economic shelf life of the kochanis in different varieties of white cabbage differs significantly. It changes in different ways and the duration of the period from the beginning of the economic shelf life of Kochanov to their massive economic fitness.

Cabbage is a moisture-loving plant. But the requirements of it to ensure water change depending on age. So, for germination of seeds, heightened humidity is necessary, a moderate humidity is maintained before the planting seedlings. The need for water increases as the number of leaves increases and reaches its maximum during the formation of Kochan. During the ripening period, watering can be limited, otherwise the increased humidity can lead to cracking of the kochanov. Cabbage is very sensitive to overcoat. Excess moisture in the soil detains its growth and can lead to the death of plants.

Light cabbage. It does not make shading, especially when shooting and the seedlings phase appear. With intensive solar lighting increases yield, improves chemical composition And the quality of the Kochan. Therefore, the cabbage is better not to plant in the gardens between the trees, where the shading is inevitable.

As a cold-resistant culture, white cabbage can be eradicated everywhere. Now it is grown even behind the polar circle. The presence of various varieties of different maturation time allows the use of white cabbage in fresh form throughout the year.

By calories, white cabbage is inferior to many vegetable cultures. But on the content of vitamins it is difficult for her to find equals. Moreover, ascorbigen was found in the cabbage juice - the most stable type of vitamin C, which is 50 times more in the cabbage than in the potato cheese.

From time immemorial, known and medical properties Cabbage. Its juice is used in the treatment of stomach and duodenal ulcers. Potassium salt in it enhance the removal of fluid from the body and increase the work of the heart muscle. IN folk medicine The cabbage is used as an external agent for burns, bruises, inflammatory processes, brine to be sprinkled with the mouth with a burst of gums.

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